“World's Most Complete Neighborpedia”
Explore:   What's happening in your neck of the woods?

About Kendall's West Kendall

How to Save a Laptop from Liquid Damage

03-09-10
Andrew Cohn
Andrew Cohn: Insurance Broker or Agent in Miami, FL
How to Save a Laptop from Liquid Damage from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit If you're tempted to down a soda, water, glass of wine, coffee, or other liquid while typing away at your keyboard, you may end up paying the ultimate price—liquid spilled into your computer from an accidental knock, a few drips or a dropped cup. If this happens, don't panic. Instead, follow these simple instructions as quickly as you can to try to salvage your computer.

Steps

  1. Shut it off! Immediately remove the battery, the A/C adapter, and unplug the device after the spill. The biggest danger at first is the device shorting out. The electrolytic activity of combining electricity and liquids will begin as soon as the liquid contacts the powered circuits so removing the power and battery immediately is essential.
  2. Turn it upside down immediately to stop the liquid from traveling deeper into the machine.
  3. Clean up any part of the spill you can get to. Use paper towels or any absorbent material that is lint-free.
  4. Inspect the keyboard. Some keyboards are designed to protect the internals from liquids:
  5. Wipe up anything sticky. This may include the screen, the keys on the keyboard, and any buttons. Use a clean, slightly dampened, lint-free cloth.
  6. Disconnect and remove any and all external devices.
  7. Insulate yourself from static discharge. Static electricity can be very high voltage. Static discharge from your hands and body can destroy even a dry computer. Learn how to Avoid Destroying a Computer With Electrostatic Discharge.
  8. Disassemble the case. If you cannot get to the whole spill, then it may be necessary to remove the laptop's case. Most spills will contain chemicals that can corrode internal circuit boards:
    • If you aren't comfortable taking your device apart, then get it to someone who is, as soon as possible.
    • Pull the hard drive to protect your data.
    • Remove as many cards or drives as you can.
  9. Remove dry residue. Use a toothbrush or lint-free cloth to gently remove any dried residue from non-water stains such as cola or coffee. Blow the residue away with compressed air, or use a vacuum cleaner with an adjustable power setting or bypass valve to ensure a gentle attempt is made at removing the residue when it has dried to a powder.
  10. Rinse off the residue. If you spilled anything besides water on the laptop, rinsing it clean will be the most dramatic part. There are several ways to rinse your machine, depending on the kind of spill, and how much risk you are willing to endure:
    • Think about what has been spilled on/in your computer, and determine whether it is water soluble or petro-chemical based. In the case of the former, deionized water will work fine. If it is oily, etc., then rinse with denatured alcohol, and then rinse with deionized water.
    • Rinse with water. Take any components that have residue (a fresh spill or an old spill of cola) and rinse them under the tap. Most circuit boards and similar non-moving components handle water well, as long as they are not powered. Some internal components with moving parts may not handle water well, for example, fans and CD/DVD drives.
    • Rinse with deionized or distilled water. Many people prefer to rinse with deionized water over tap water. Regular water will leave deposits that can cause electrical shorts, but deionized water will rinse clean, dry, and leave nothing behind.
    • Don't get too carried away rinsing your machine. Water and laptops do not mix, either. Rinse as much as you need to, and not more. Carefully blot up excess water, if any.
  11. Let it dry. Be completely sure that the parts are dry before you proceed. As with rinsing, there are different theories on drying:
    • Dry naturally. Prop the machine up, away from surfaces, so that air can circulate in and around the entire unit. Leave the machine to dry for 24 to 48 hours.
    • Dry with light heat. Place your deck on a warm radiator or on top of a warm sill or shelf - out of direct sunlight - or near other source of warmth. Do not use high levels of heat, just moderately warm sources of heat. Let it dry for 12 hours, or so. A nearby dehumidifier may improve drying time. High heat will drive moisture and humidity further into the device and will ensure ongoing problems as that moisture causes oxidation and corrosion.
    • Never use a hair dryer, as this will cause static problems and fill your machine with more contaminants and dust. A hair dryer at a high setting could also melt some of the plastic components. In extreme cases the hair dryer will drive moisture deeper into the circuits and components and that moisture will oxidize and create capacitive load connections under and inside of integrated circuits and connectors, eventually causing failure of the device. The best way to remove all residual moisture is to patiently draw it away with a vacuum cleaner held over the affected areas for up to 20 minutes in each accessible area, having already removed the majority of liquids and moisture manually and dried all visible moisture by hand, so that none enters the vacuum cleaner. This method is preferable to leaving it to dry naturally as it halts any oxidation from occurring deep inside small surface mount components and connections, such as can result in issues later on.
  12. Clean with a solvent. A second rinse with a solvent-based cleaner is recommended by some, and abhorred by others. It is recommended if the unit has been sitting long enough to be subject to corrosion and oxidation before repair and cleaning is attempted. Always use gloves and ensure good room ventilation when handling any solvent or alcohol based cleaners as some are known carcinogens.
    • If you suspect that your first rinse did not remove all of the residue, a chemical rinse of this kind may be worth the risk. The advantages of such a rinse are: there is only one substance to apply and remove; that substance, typically, evaporates; long drying times are not required. The disadvantage is that, if you use the wrong solvents, you can literally dissolve your computer.
    • Buy and use 99% (not 90%) isopropyl alcohol. Never, ever use gasoline or acetone to clean computer parts.
    • Using a cotton swab and/or soft toothbrush, carefully rub or wipe each component of the board, until it is clean.
    • Try flux remover, a spray-on can available in electronics stores, rather than isopropyl alcohol.
  13. Put the laptop back together, and test it to see if it is working.

Video

Tips

  • Most spills can easily be avoided. Keep your computer away from food and liquids.
  • Set the Power Options of your laptop to Do nothing when you close the lid. While the coffee gets served, you can close the lid to guard against damaging spills. This way, when you re-open, you don’t have to re-enter a password. Also, while you are downloading you might want to close the lid without the system shutting down. Closing the lid will always turn off the screen, independent from software settings, to avoid overheating and to save energy.
  • Some companies have a spill provision in their warranties; it won't hurt to check before removing the case.
  • You can buy total replacement 'notebook insurance' for the machine on an annual basis fairly cheaply (at least until it's depreciated enough not to bother with). Don't buy an extended warranty or 'replacement' contract at the store unless you've shopped the price on-line.
  • Removing the case on most laptops is not easy. Critically, you must remove all screws. The screws are tiny and will be all over the place. Check for screws on the outside, of course, but also in any internal compartments, such as, behind the battery or under labels.
  • Never force the case off, or you will break plastic or bend metal. If the case does not come off easily, look for more screws.
  • Case screws may be star screws, in which case you will need the correct-sized, star screwdriver set.
  • If there are many different screws in the casing, then you can make a drawing of the layout on paper, and tape each screw to the drawing. This way you won't be in doubt about which goes where when you're putting the whole thing back together.
  • Look for a service manual or hardware maintenance manual for your particular laptop on the manufacturer's website. These guides can tell you, step by step, how to disassemble your laptop.
  • When drying the computer, allow air to circulate all around the machine, by propping it up away from surfaces, so that air can get under it.
  • Check a tropical fish store for tablets to deionize water.
  • Deionized water is used often in the semiconductor industry, as tap water contains many ions or chemical impurities that may leave a residue on very sensitive electronic components.
  • Consider purchasing an "accidental spill" warranty, if you know you are going to be around liquids frequently. This may add a few hundred dollars to the purchase price of your laptop, but it will be much cheaper than having to buy a new one.
  • Several companies sell keyboard covers/membranes for laptops. It does take a little getting used to, and you have to turn up the keypad sensitivity, but it doesn't allow spills to get between the keys.
  • Several companies also sell laptop vests and laptop jackets. The vests are a light cover that merely protect the top and bottom of a laptop from scratches (one model comes with a handle) while the jacket zips completely shut around the laptop like a binder (also has a zipper for back access ports). There are some more expensive models of laptop jackets meant for use in extreme conditions, and they have enough padding to protect against moderate falls.
  • Some tablet machines have no keyboard to spill into (or break), and come with rubber protectors to protect ports. You can still spill liquids into them, you'll just have a tougher time doing it.
  • You could consider a 'ruggedized notebook' that is liquid and shock proof if you are prone to accidents. These won't be 'cutting edge', but they can be used as a club.

Warnings

  • Whatever you do, do not power your laptop on to check if everything is okay. Give the laptop at least 24 hours to dry completely on its own before attempting any sort of power on at all.
  • Water and electricity do not mix! Make sure all power is off.
  • Even "clean" tap water can destroy electronics as it contains minerals and many added chemicals including chlorine, a strong oxidizer and bleach. If you drop a laptop into tap water, still be prepared for the DI water rinse.
  • Many, if not most, laptops contain a CMOS battery that is constantly providing a small amount of power to the laptop. Even this small amount of power may be more than enough to cause an electrical short. It would probably be best to remove this battery (it looks like a watch battery), as soon as possible, after a spill. Note, though, that this will erase any modified BIOS settings.
  • If you choose to let the spill dry without cleaning, be aware that any acid present will slowly "eat" the circuit boards, until the device fails.
  • Opening the case will void the warranty. However, spilling acidic liquid into the device probably already did that anyway, as few warranties cover this kind of damage.
  • A heavily soaked AC adapter will need to be replaced.
  • Organic solvents can be dangerous and even explosive. Use only in a well ventilated environment with the correct personal protective equipment, such as gloves and an organic solvent respirator.

Things You'll Need

  • Deionized or 'reverse osmosis filtered' water or isopropyl alcohol
  • Various small screwdrivers
  • Plastic bags to hold small parts and screws
  • Paper towels, a clean soft toothbrush and cotton swabs

Related wikiHows

Sources and Citations

Article provided by wikiHow, a wiki how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Save a Laptop from Liquid Damage. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

null

Top 7 Tools to make your short sales a breeze

Noel Padilla, CDPE: Real Estate Agent in Kendall, FL

A while back I wrote a blog Top ten reasons your short sale will not close. I thought a perfect follow up would be a blog on the tools I use to stay organized and make short sales so simple that you'll wonder why you haven't delved into this niche market sooner.

After reading through this post and you still don't want to handle short sales, I will pay a referral fee of 30% for those of you who would like me to handle them for you. I will take the listing and do all the negotiations and get it to closing. No upfront fees (scam) just good old Realtor networking. Did I mention I've gotten 100% approvals on all my short sales? Can't beat perfection. (Southeast Florida Only Please!)

First off I want to disclose that I have in no way a relationship with the products or services I am promoting. I use these every day in my business and I am happy to promote them.

Bluebeam The bluebeam software is amazing for the price $149.00. It is a pdf editor that allows you to do all sorts of things to pdf documents. You can't change the copy but what I do is color over copy I don'tneed with a white marker, then flatten the image and use the text box to add whatever I want. The feature I particularly like is the"insert documents" one. I insert all the pdf documents needed for my short sale package and save it to one nice concise pdf. If you use a tablet, bluebeam allows you to sign and secure pdf's as well.

Metro Hi Speed Metro Hi Speed fax service is again another must have. At $12.95 per month for 1000 pages what else is there to say? You simply attach the documents you want to send in an email and plug in the phone number in the "To" field along with the metrofax extension and go have lunch. You can add as many documents as yo want separately up to ten megabytes and this service works flawlessly. After the fax is sent you get a confirmation e-mail.

Microsoft Office Suite 2007 You can find MS Office Suite at your local Best Buy or get it from the Microsoft website. With MS Outlook, the email management software, I created a fax cover sheet "signature" which I select and use when sending faxes. I just fill in the required fields, attach the documents I want to fax and hit send. You can create folders with rules and when you receive and email that conforms to those rules instead of your inbox it goes to the folder specified. You can also save all your emails for a particular transaction to a custom folder you setup. I use the MS Excel spreadsheet program to keep all of my listings organized. I got this idea from a brokerage I used to work for. They had this large dry erase board with all the office listings. I decided to do the same with a spreadsheet. You can add comments to each individual cell in the spreadsheet which is where I keep my notes when I speak to the banks while negotiating short sales.

Smart Phone with Bluetooth Headset I'm a Palm guy but any smart phone with e-mail capabilities, internet access, texting and word processing software is a must. I know there are agents out there who don't embrace technology and like to do business the old fashion way, knee cap to knee cap, but I personally don't know how I would survive without my Palm. Nothing beats being on hold while cooking dinner in the next room and not missing the connection to that short sale negotiator. That's what the bluetooth headset feature provides, freedom and control.

Tablet Laptop Speaking of technology, this is really taking it up an notch. I use a Gateway tablet with a Maxtor external 160 gig hard drive to keep it all safe and organized. I go as paperless as possible, from listing agreements to simple addendums it all it gets done on the tablet. After closing I hand my broker a cd instead of a dog eared file of faded and coffee stained legal file. It's not only cheaper this way, nothing gets lost as it;s backup on the the external hard drive plus it's good for the environment.

All in one Fax Copier Scanner This one should have been the first on my list but these units aren't exciting anymore. They have become an after thought yet oh so necassary. The most important feature is the scan to pdf feature. I use an ancient Lexmarx 6500 I picked up for $199.00 and it does the trick for me. Today's models have fax to email features, bluetooth, Wifi and the list goes on and on.

Education I saved the most important for last. I attended a 2 day intensive seminar that gave me the tools to build a foundation as to where I could be successful in getting short sales approved. I learn new something new everyday so you absolutely must keep an open mind to new ideas and be resilient and creative. Notice, I didn't take a two hour course or some 60 minute webinar, I invested in my business and spent 2 intense days learning. As far as I'm concerned nothing beats the Certified Distressed Property Institute.

As a Realtor you probably own most of these products but as a short sales specialists you may need to invest in some of these tools or upgrade to make life easier. Please free to add to the list, I'm a techie junkie and new gadget that makes life easier is an A plus in my book.

Happy Short Selling!

Noel Padilla, CDPE

"Doing Business Right"

Short Sales and Option Contracts

Noel Padilla, CDPE: Real Estate Agent in Kendall, FL

The rave that seems to be making the rounds in the Real Estate community is the short sale option contract. It goes something like this: A Realtor gets a call from a prospect to list a property for sale which is worth less than owed (Short Sale Scenario). The agent does not want another short sale listing but reluctantly takes it and turns to an investor for help. The investor makes an extremely low offer with an option to sell. He then takes over the short sale negotiation from the agent who has agreed to let him do so.

The hitch is that the property is then actively marketed for a higher price while under contract. A buyer is found and a contract is written with the investor as the seller. Once it closes it is immediately sold to the buyer. Of course there are other variables and scenarios painted in different lights to try and masquerade what is going on but this is essentially what is happening. Oh by the way the listing agent is promised the second listing as well along with a reduced commission, but who cares the agent is getting two commissions days apart, nice!

The problem with that is the little thing called code of ethics. A Realtor has a fiduciary responsibility to get the highest and best price for the seller. The other wrinkle is this other little thing called fraud. If the agent knew full well he could get a higher sales price, why didn't the bank receive those funds? Especially when he listed it for the investor and sold it a few days later.

If this scheme is properly disclosed to all parties, I doubt the bank will accept the first offer, especially when they do their homework and find out what the property is worth. Most of the time it is not even called an option contract because that phrase raises red flags. You can see why the "investor" wants to control the negotiation process. This way he controls the information to the lender. He probably manipulates the BPO as well to get the sales price accepted. This is why the Realtor has to be in on the scam.

Most option contracts require either one of two elements to make them work ethically. The first is time, and the other more practical one is buying low with all parties aware of what is going on. The property needs to have enough equity and the seller needs to be sophisticated enough to know he is leaving money on the table in exchange for a quick sale.

Common sense should prevail here. Think about it, if the property can be sold at that much of a discount don't you think you can find plenty of buyers? Why use a middle man?

What I see happening is a bunch of Realtors being duped to buy a course that packages this type of transaction in the form of books, cd's and webinars in exchange for putting their license and freedom on the line. Heaven forbid an agent actually gets involved in a short sale option contract. The ones making the money are the endless amounts of gurus, so called investors and overnight experts. If it sounds too good to be true it usually is.

See this article for an actual case. http://www.nationalmortgagenews.com/fraud/stories/?id=289

Short Sale Expert Lawsuit

Noel Padilla, CDPE: Real Estate Agent in Kendall, FL

Recently I received an unsolicited e-mail (spam) from someone named Sally Larabee about a very interesting subject. She claimed that Realtors all over the nation will be getting sued for calling themselves experts in short sales, when in fact they haven’t completed not one. It went on to list how this would take place and the only way to avoid it is to take their course (probably at a hefty price). It also states that if you really want to call yourself an expert you need to take their course and prepare yourself. I thought to myself now wait one minute you just said if I don’t do a bunch of short sales and gain “experience” that I can’t call myself an expert, now you tell me if I take your course you can call yourself an expert. Which one is it? Expertise is not measured by how many times you perform a task, that’s called experience.

Although the argument is very compelling, it’s fairly easy to protect ones self with the proper disclosures without taking another short sale course. If you are doing short sales and haven’t had an attorney write a disclosure for you, shame on you. Get it done today and have all parties sign it.

Finally what I found interesting is that when I surfed the Real Estate Radio Blog, low and behold I found the exact same article written by Barry Cunningham, I thought the e-mail had Barry’s tone. I also wrote a post to that blog and somehow it was never published. I just wanted to let Barry know that his stuff had been plagiarized-or vice versa.

Wherefore out thou Freddie & Fannie?

Noel Padilla, CDPE: Real Estate Agent in Kendall, FL

It’s taken me a few days to absorb what happened Sunday and read the articles by the ‘experts’ as to there take on the bailout of Freddie Mac and Fannie Mae. The consensus seems to be that the bailout will help stimulate the real estate market, albeit minimally. They seem to think that lower interest rates will help buyers on the fence get in the game. Although this may help, I feel their train of thought is skewed because high interest rates are not what are keeping buyers away. Affordability and tighten lending criteria are the true obstacles (As was always before the banks’ self imposed boon). Fear about decreasing property values is another important factor. The bailout does nothing to address these issues.

The only ones thrown a life preserver are the investors (like they really need it). I understand why it’s important to keep the security aspect of package mortgages relatively stable, but what’s wrong with throwing a few hundred billion to aid those on the brink of foreclosure? After all, the banks are the ones who encouraged this whole mess. They knew exactly what was going to happen-they went through it just a few years ago-SNL scandal.

The real estate market is like any other market: There are only so many customers we are all vying for and there are only so many products to sell. When one of those is out of whack you have a problem-in this case they both are out of whack, no buyers & too many homes.

Neither of these will be solved by this bailout. Worse yet we are in store for a tsunami of foreclosures just around the corner and if nothing is done we may see property values down to what they were 20 years ago or lower.

Noel Padilla

"Doing Business Right"

Kendall Short Sale Foreclosure Specialist