Rosemary Beach, FL

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There are a number of measures that homeowners can take to ensure that their homes are not attractive to burglars. If clients are concerned about break-ins, inspectors can pass on to them basic strategies for burglar-proofing their homes.

Some interesting statistics concerning break-ins in the United States:

• Theft makes up more than three-quarters of all reported crime.

• In 2005, law enforcement agencies reported more than 2 million burglary offenses.

According to a survey, burglars enter homes through the following locations:

• 81 percent enter through the first floor;
• 34 percent of burglars enter through the front door;
• 23 percent enter through a first-floor window;
• 22 percent enter through the back door
• 9 percent enter through the garage;
• 4 percent enter through the basement;
• 4 percent enter through an unlocked entrance;
• 2 percent enter through a storage area; and
• 2 percent enter anywhere on the second floor.

Some interesting statistics (2002) concerning break-ins in Canada.

• The burglary rate in Canada (877 per 100,000 people) is seven times higher than that of the country with the fewest break-ins, Norway.

• The burglary rate in Canada is slightly higher than that of the United States (746 per 100,000 people) but significantly less than the burglary rate in Australia (2275 per 100,000 people).
  

Exterior Doors

• Doors should be made of steel or solid-core wood construction. Hollow-core wood doors are more easily broken than heavy, solid-core doors.
  
  
• Doors should be free of signs of rot, cracks and warping.
  
  
• Doors should be protected by quality deadbolt locks. Chain locks are not adequate substitutes for deadbolt locks, although chain locks may be used as additional protection.
  
  
• If a mail slot is present, it should be equipped with a cage or box. Mailslots that are not equipped with cages or boxes have been used by burglers to enter homes. Burglars can insert a contraption made of wire and cord into the mail slot and use it to open the lock from the inside, if no box or cage is present.
  
  
• If a door is equipped with glass panes, they should be installed far from the lock. Otherwise, burglars can smash the glass and reach through the door to unlock the door.
  
  
• Spare keys should not be hidden in obvious locations. Burglars are very good at finding keys that homeowners believe are cleverly hidden. The best place for a spare key is in the house of a trusted neighbor. If keys must be hidden near the door, they should not be placed in obvious locations, such as under a doormat, rock or planter.
  
  
• A peephole can be installed in doors so homeowners can see who is on their doorstep before they open the door.
  
  
• Clients should consider installing bump-resistant locks on their doors. "Bumping" is a technique developed recently that can open almost any standard lock with less effort than is required by lock-picking. This technique uses "bump keys," which are normal keys with slight modifications. Lock companies such as Schlage Primus and Medeco manufacture a number of locks that offer some bump-resistance.

Pet Doors

• Pet doors can be used by burglars to enter homes. Some burglars have reached through pet doors in order to unlock the door. It is advisable to not have a pet door, but if one is necessary, it should be as small as possible and installed far from the lock.
  
  
• A crafty burglar may convince or coerce a small child to crawl through a pet door and unlock the door. Also, some burglars are children.
  
  
• Electronic pet doors are available that open only when the pet, equipped with a signaling device in their collar, approaches the door. These doors are designed to keep stray animals out of the home, and may provide protection against burglars, as well.
  
  

Sliding Glass Doors

• They should be equipped with locks on their tops and bottoms.
  
  
• They should not be able to be lifted from their frames.
  
  
• A cut-off broom handle, or a similar device, can be laid into the door track to prevent it from being opened.
  
  

Illumination

• Lights should be installed on the exterior of all four sides of the house. Burglars prefer darkness so they cannot be seen by neighbors or passersby.
  
  
• When building occupants are not home, a few lights should be left on.
  
  
• It is helpful to install exterior lights that are activated by motion sensors. Burglars that are suddenly illuminated may flee.
  
  

Windows

• All windows should be composed of strong glass, such as laminated glass, and be in good operating order.

• They can be installed with bars, grilles, grates or heavy-duty wire screening. Barred windows must be equipped with a quick-release mechanism so occupants can quickly escape during a fire.

• Windows should not be hidden from from by landscaping or structures. If landscaping or structures cannot be moved, lighting can be installed around the windows.

Landscape and Yard

• Shrubs and trees should not obscure the view of entrances. Shielded entrances can provide cover for burglars while they attempt to enter the residence.
  
  
• Fences are helpful burglar deterrents, although they should not be difficult to see through.

While the house is vacant:

• A loud radio can be used to make burglars think someone is home. Timers can be used to activate radios and lights to make the home seem occupied.
  
• A car should always be parked in the driveway. A neighbor's car can be parked there so that it appears as if someone is home.
  
  

• The lawn should be cut regularly. Uncut grass is a clue that no one is home.

Other tips:

• Dogs are excellent burglar deterrants. For clients who cannot own dogs, they can place "beware of dog" signs around the yard for nearly the same effect.

• If no security system is installed, the client can post security alarm stickers around the yard.
  

In summary, there are a number of tactics that inspectors can pass on to their clients that will help safeguard their homes from break-ins.

For more informatiion please visit: HOMEINSPECOTRUSA

Clothes dryers evaporate the water from wet clothing by blowing hot air past them while they tumble inside a spinning drum. Heat is provided by an electrical heating element or gas burner. Some heavy garment loads can contain more than a gallon of water, which during the drying process will become airborne water vapor and leave the dryer and home through an exhaust duct (more commonly known as a dryer vent). A vent that exhausts moist air to the home exterior has a number of requirements:

1. It should be connected. The connection is usually behind the dryer but may be beneath it. Look carefully to make sure it's actually connected!
2. It should not be restricted. Dryer vents are often made from flexible plastic or metal duct, which may be easily kinked or crushed where they exit the dryer and enter the wall or floor. This is often a problem since dryers tend to be tucked away into small areas with little room to work. Vent hardware is available which is designed to turn 90° in a limited space without restricting the flow of exhaust air. Restrictions should be noted in the inspector's report. Airflow restrictions are a potential fire hazard!
3. One of the reasons that restrictions are a potential fire hazard is that along with water vapor evaporated out of wet clothes, the exhaust stream carries lint - highly flammable particles of clothing made of cotton and polyester. Lint can accumulate in an exhaust duct, reducing the dryer's ability to expel heated water vapor, which then accumulates as heat energy within the machine. As the dryer overheats, mechanical failures can trigger sparks, which can cause lint trapped in the dryer vent to burst into flames. This condition can cause the whole house to burst into flames! Fires generally originate within the dryer but spread by escaping through the ventilation duct, incinerating trapped lint and following its path into the building wall.

House fires caused by dryers are far more common than generally believed, a fact that can be appreciated upon reviewing statistics from the National Fire Protection Agency. Fires caused by dryers in 2005 were responsible for approximately 13,775 house fires, 418 injuries, 15 deaths, and $196 million in property damage. Most of these incidents occur in residences and are the result of improper lint cleanup and maintenance. Fortunately, these fires are very easy to prevent.
The recommendations outlined below reflect International Residential Code (IRC) SECTION M1502 CLOTHES DRYER EXHAUST guidelines:

M1502.5 Duct construction.
Exhaust ducts shall be constructed of minimum 0.016-inch-thick (0.4 mm) rigid metal ducts, having smooth interior surfaces with joints running in the direction of air flow. Exhaust ducts shall not be connected with sheet-metal screws or fastening means which extend into the duct.

This means that the flexible, ribbed vents used in the past should no longer be used. They should be noted as a potential fire hazard if observed during an inspection.

M1502.6 Duct length. The maximum length of a clothes dryer exhaust duct shall not exceed 25 feet (7620 mm) from the dryer location to the wall or roof termination. The maximum length of the duct shall be reduced 2.5 feet (762 mm) for each 45-degree (0.8 rad) bend and 5 feet (1524 mm) for each 90-degree (1.6 rad) bend. The maximum length of the exhaust duct does not include the transition duct.

This means that vents should also be as straight as possible and cannot be longer than 25 feet. Any 90° turns in the vent reduce this 25-foot number by 5 feet since these turns restrict airflow.
A couple of exceptions exist:

1. The IRC will defer to the manufacturer's instruction, so if the manufacturer's recommendation permits a longer exhaust vent, that's acceptable. An inspector probably won't have the manufacturer's recommendations, and even if they do, confirming compliance with them exceeds the scope of a General Home Inspection.
2. The IRC will allow large radius bends to be installed to reduce restrictions at turns, but confirming compliance requires performing engineering calculation in accordance with the ASHRAE Fundamentals Handbook, which definitely lies beyond the scope of a General Home Inspection!

M1502.2 Duct termination.
Exhaust ducts shall terminate on the outside of the building or shall be in accordance with the dryer manufacturer's installation instructions. Exhaust ducts shall terminate not less than 3 feet (914 mm) in any direction from openings into buildings. Exhaust duct terminations shall be equipped with a backdraft damper. Screens shall not be installed at the duct termination.

Inspectors will see many dryer vents terminate in crawlspaces or attics where they deposit moisture, which can encourage the growth of mold, wood decay, or other material problems. Sometimes they will terminate just beneath attic ventilators. This is a defective installation. They must terminate at the exterior and away from a door or window! Also, screens may be present at the duct termination and can accumulate lint and should be noted as improper.

M1502.3 Duct size.
The diameter of the exhaust duct shall be as required by the clothes dryer's listing and the manufacturer's installation instructions.

Look for the exhaust duct size on the data plate.

M1502.4 Transition ducts.
Transition ducts shall not be concealed within construction. Flexible transition ducts used to connect the dryer to the exhaust duct system shall be limited to single lengths, not to exceed 8 feet (2438 mm) and shall be listed and labeled in accordance with UL 2158A.

In general, a home inspector will not know specific manufacturer's recommendations or local applicable codes and will no be able to confirm the dryer vent's compliance to them, but will be able to point out issues that may need to be corrected.

For more information visit: HOMEINSPECTORUSA

Rosemary Beach Area Distress Sales/Bank Foreclosures Distress Sales resulting from bank foreclosures often represent a great way to get a fantastic deal on a Rosemary Beach home. It's not easy for the average buyer to find these deals, because you have to keep scouring the paper to see when one comes up. Rosemary Beach foreclosures have become more prominent with the current problems in the mortgage industry. If you're the type of person who recognizes what a great deal some of these properties could represent, you will be interested to know about a new free computerized service which automatically searches out and downloads a current list of all such properties day in and day out. When you receive this free, no obligation service, you're automatically plugged in to the most current list of Rosemary Beach Foreclosure Properties on the market, in the price range and area that interests you. This FREE service every week will save you a lot of research and running around.

Here's how it works. Every week, you will receive a FREE computerized report listing the current Rosemary Beach foreclosure properties in your desired price range and location. There is no cost for this information, and absolutely no obligation. This insider information, sent to you in an incredibly simple and efficient format, will give you a huge advantage over other buyers in the marketplace. I keep an updated page with links to all of the current Rosemary Beach Foreclosures at all times. With the rise of short sales, foreclosures, and distress sales this has become the ultimate way to buy Rosemary Beach Real Estate.

Stay on top of the Rosemary Beach foreclosures and you will find the best deals around. Whether you are looking for a Rosemary Beach foreclosure home, a Rosemary Beach foreclosure condo, or any other Rosemary Beach foreclosure then you have come to the right price. If you are interested in foreclosures or distress sales in Sandestin, Destin, 30A, Sandestin, Santa Rosa Beach, Blue Mountain Beach, Grayton Beach, Watercolor, Seaside, Seagrove Beach, Seacrest Beach, or Inlet Beach then let me know. With a large selection of short sales and foreclosures on the market right now it creates the perfect opportunity for those who want to own in this area. These incredible deals won't last forever so the time to act is now!

If you would like to receive Rosemary Beach foreclosures by email as soon as they hit the market you can email me at josh@joshmcleanhomes.com.

Feel free to search all Rosemary Beach foreclosures and real estate at http://www.JoshMcleanHomes.com.

John M. Acaron, CHI, CMI

www.HOMEINSPECTORUSA.biz

Office: (850-814-3889)

Think of a professional home inspector as a detective searching throughout the house for clues that lead to a conclusion of the home's overall condition. A certified home inspector performs a very important service. He inspects an existing home using professional standards and equipment as a measure to accurately report the condition of the home. A professional home inspector will inspect the property to the highest professional and ethical standards in the industry and provide the client with an accurate, comprehensive, easy-to-read, written assessment report thereafter. The inspector does not evaluate the home for cost or value. A home inspection is a non-invasive examination of the condition of a home performed on specific time and date. The home inspection is carried out by a professional home inspector, who usually is certified and has specialized equipment (tools), education and training to ascertain and carry out such task.

To be a competent and professional home inspector it must be fully educated & trained in the proper operation of all commonly found home systems. These systems include:

•v Structural Components (foundations, floors and walls),

•v Exterior Components (siding paint, windows, decks, garage doors, etc.),

•v Roofing (coverings, flashings, chimneys, etc.),

•v Plumbing (piping, fixtures, faucets, water heating and fuel storage systems, etc.),

•v Electrical (wiring, main service panels, conductors, switches, receptacles, etc.),

•v Heating (equipment, safety controls, distribution systems, chimneys, etc.),

•v Air Conditioning and Heat Pumps (cooling and air-handling equipment, controls and ducting, etc.),

•v Interior (partitions, ceilings, floors, railings, doors and windows, etc.),

•v Insulation and Ventilation (attic, walls, floors, foundations, kitchen and bathrooms, etc.)

Why a Home Inspection? Public awareness, increased liability, and the growing demand for qualified information have catapulted the home inspector into the public spotlight. When purchasing a home, many home buyers have saved literally thousands of dollars through information provided by the home inspector. People who have owned a home for several years have benefited through the home inspector's knowledge of maintenance, repairs and experienced eyes to avert potential problems. In many areas where disasters have occurred, homeowners have relied on inspectors to help them identify any damage resulting from storms, earthquakes, etc.

The home inspection report must be neatly written and conform to the accepted standards of this industry. With proper education, training and experience a home inspector can be an effective asset to the home buyer. A home "cannot fail" an inspection, as there is no score or passing grade given. A home inspector, therefore, will not pass or fail a house, but rather describe its physical condition and indicate what components and systems may need a major or minor repair or replacement. The home inspector play a very important role in the decision making process and in the result of the real estate transaction.A home inspection has become an intricate part of the real estate transaction. ****** Inspected Once, Inspected Right! ******