Billy Boerner -- Home Inspector

How To Prepare For a Home Inspection

March 17th, 2009

When you are in the inspection process of your home buying transaction, there are several items that need to be done before the inspection. In this article I am going to list and explain these items for a seller, buyer, and real estate agent. With this information you will be more prepared for your home inspection, thereby helping the inspector perform a more thorough and complete home inspection.

Home Sellers

Let's start off with the sellers' inspection. Many homeowners today are having their homes inspected before they are put on the market. This is a very savvy marketing tool to help your home sell quicker and more profitably. For your home inspector to do the best job possible, he or she will need several things to be done before they arrive to check the house over.

• If it happens to be winter, please make sure the driveway is clear of ice and snow. An inspector cannot see through this stuff, thereby limiting the inspection.
• Please make sure that all utilities to the home are in operation mode. Inspectors do not light pilot lights, turn on water mains, or main panel breakers. If these are not in regular operating mode, the inspection will be limited and less beneficial to you.
• Make sure attic access is not obstructed in any way. You inspector will need to get in here to check insulation, roof sheathing, trusses, etc.
• I realize that if you are selling, you will be packing. However, please do not have every packed box crammed into a corner in the basement, or else your inspector will not be able to see the walls and foundation.
• If permits are needed in your area for remodeling have copies of these ready. In some areas an inspector will need these.

Home Buyers

Now, if you are a buyer, your list will be a little shorter. But, it is still just as important to do your homework. You are paying for the inspection, so stay on top of everything.

• Once you call the inspector and set a date and time, call your real estate agent and verify this time. Some inspectors do this for you and some don't (I call the agent myself, and they relay to the seller when we will be there).
• If this is a vacant foreclosure or bank owned property, find out who you need to contact in order to get ALL utilities turned on and into normal operation mode. Again, inspectors will not turn these items on for you at the time of the inspection. If they are not on, they will be disclaimed as not inspected.
• If you are having any specialty testing like lead, mold, water, septic done, try to do these on the same day if the house is occupied. Sellers will thank you for not making too many trips and inconveniencing them.

Real Estate Agents

Now let's focus on what the real estate agent needs to do before each home inspection. Some buyers may not realize what these people do for you.

• If the inspector has not verified the appointment before 3:00 the day before the inspection, call to verify.
• Help the buyer with getting utilities and the like into normal operating mode. This will allow a more thorough inspection and speed up the sale. It will work out better for you.
• If you will not be attending the inspection, please let the inspector know how to gain access.
• If there are going to be items not operating please call the client and explain this to them, so they may decide whether or not to reschedule the inspection. Most inspectors do not come back a second time for zero fee. Your buyer will be liable for this return fee, and probably upset about it.

I hope everyone can take something from this list and use it. I really do feel bad sometimes when the inspection is limited due to a lack of communication between all parties involved. If any of you have items that you feel should be on this list, please feel free to let me know. I am always willing to listen and learn how others operate.

Ian A Niquette

Home buyers have it drilled into their heads that they need to get a home inspection. In California, for example, real estate agents advise home buyers to do a home inspection 15 ways from Sunday.

Our purchase contracts contain two pages that talk about doing a home inspection, and those two pages are repeated in the buyer's broker agreement. That's just for starters. A home buyer does not close escrow without hearing about the need for a home inspection. But what does a home inspection report disclose? Home buyers are often clueless about home construction and its components, and have difficulty deciphering home inspection reports. Many don't know how to figure out which types of defects are serious or whether their home inspector checked all the essentials. But, by George, they got that home inspection!

Home Inspection Checklist Comparisons

All home inspections are different and can vary dramatically from state to state, as well as across counties and cities. Much depends on the home inspector and which association, if any, to which the home inspector belongs. Because I am most familiar with home inspections conducted in accordance with the standards of practice established by the National Association of Certified Home Inspectors, the following information is based on NACHI guidelines.

Home Inspection Checklist of Items Not Inspected Understand that California home inspectors are not licensed, nor are they licensed in many states. However, a home inspector's standard practice typically does not include the following, for which a specific license to inspect and identify is required:

Asbestos Radon, Methane, Radiation and Formaldehyde Wood-Destroying Organisms Mold, Mildew and Fungi Rodents Lead General

Home Inspection Checklist Items Structural Elements.

Construction of walls, ceilings, floors, roof and foundation. Exterior Evaluation. Wall covering, landscaping, grading, elevation, drainage, driveways, fences, sidewalks, fascia, trim, doors, windows, lights and exterior receptacles.

Roof and Attic.

Framing, ventilation, type of roof construction, flashing and gutters. It does not include a guarantee of roof condition nor a roof certification.

Plumbing.

Identification of pipe materials used for potable, drain, waste and vent pipes. including condition. Toilets, showers, sinks, faucets and traps. It does not include a sewer inspection. Systems and Components. Water heaters, furnaces, air conditioning, duct work, chimney, fireplace and sprinklers.

Electrical.

Main panel, circuit breakers, types of wiring, grounding, exhaust fans, receptacles, ceiling fans and light fixtures. Appliances. Dishwasher, range and oven, built-in microwaves, garbage disposal and, yes, even smoke detectors.

Garage.

Slab, walls, ceiling, vents, entry, firewall, garage door, openers, lights, receptacles, exterior, windows and roof.

Home Inspection Checklist Items Needing Service Home inspection reports do not describe the condition of every component if it's in excellent shape, but should note every item that is defective or needing service.

See the entire article to include a video at: http://homebuying.about.com/od/homeshopping/qt/091107_homeinsp.htm

Water absorbs dissolved minerals, organic compounds
and organisms as it moves through the air and soil into
surface and ground water supplies. Unacceptable materials
may find their way into the water due to some of our
activities.

Public water systems are required to regular test and
treat water for certain contaminants according to the
rules and regulations set by the Environmental Protection
Agency (EPA) under the Safe Drinking Water Act. Testing
your water from a public system could indicate problems
in your home's plumbing, connections or treatment system.

Most private systems are in rural or suburban areas.
Private well owners are responsible for monitoring the
quality of their water. Testing for possible contaminants
on a regular schedule is the only way to be certain your
water supply is safe.

Occasional problems do occur in the state's water
supplies. Nuisance problems generally do not present a
health risk, but the water may not be acceptable for all
household activities. The most common nuisance problems
are objectionable taste, odor, color and hardness. Once
properly identified, these problems can often be
corrected with water treatment systems.

Testing for every possible contaminant is unnecessary
and expensive. This will help you identify the tests you
need for your water supply. Testing confirms a problem
exists so appropriate treatment can be recommended and
you do not purchase expensive, unnecessary treatment
systems.

Which Tests?

Your first concern is to provide your family with a
safe source of water. Private well-owners should test for
total coliform bacteria and nitrate. The presence or
absence of bacteria or nitrate often indicates the safety
of your water supply. Testing must be done to detect
these contaminants since both are typically invisible,
odorless and tasteless.

Coliform bacteria are found in the digestive tract of
all birds and mammals. Most coliform bacteria are not
harmful themselves, but point to an unsanitary condition
and possible presence of disease causing agents. In some
cases the bacteria are found in the pipes or well and not
the water supply itself.

Sources of nitrate include food, water and soil. High
levels of nitrate in the water supply can cause infant
cyanosis (blue baby) in children under six months.
Chronic, long-term risks are not known at this time. Like
coliform bacteria, the presence of nitrate indicates the
possibility other contaminants.

The following table lists problems found in water
supplies and the appropriate tests to request. You should
review your particular concerns with your county Health
Department, Cooperative Extension office or water testing
lab when selecting the appropriate tests.

Problem or Concern Test
Appearance:
Frothy, Foamy Detergents
Black flakes Manganese
Brown or Yellow Iron, Tannic Acid
Stains on fixtures
or clothing:
Red or Brown Iron
Black Manganese
Green or Blue Copper
Odor or Taste:
Bitter Nitrate, Sulfates
Rotten Egg Hydrogen Sulfide
Metallic pH, Iron, Zinc, Copper, Lead
Salty Total Dissolved Solids, Chloride,
Sodium
Septic, Musty, Earthy Total Coliform Bacteria,Iron
Soapy Detergents (Surfactants)
Gasoline or Oil Hydrocarbon Scan,Aromatic Volatile
Organic Chemicals
White deposits on Hardness
pots and fixtures,
soap scum
Discoloration of Fluoride
children's teeth
Family or guests Total Coliform Bacteria,
become ill Nitrate, Sulfates
Water supply used for Nitrate
infant less than six
months old
Corrosion of plumbing Corrosivity, pH, Lead, Iron, Zinc,
Manganese, Copper Sulfates,Chloride

If You Suspect or Observe Test
Contamination from:
Old lead pipe or solder Lead, Copper, pH, Zinc
Leaking fuel tank Hydrocarbon Scan, Aromatic
Volatile Organic Chemicals
Coal mining Total Dissolved Solids,Iron,
Sulfates, pH, Corrosion
Index, Manganese,
Aluminum,Arsenic, Selenium
Gas and oil drilling Total Dissolved Solids,
Chloride, Sodium,
Barium,Lead, pH, Corrosion
Index, Strontium, Volatile
Organic Scan
Landfill Total Dissolved Solids, pH,
Volatile Organic Scan, Heavy
Metal Scan
Septic systems Total Coliform Bacteria,
Nitrate, Detergents, Total
Dissolved Solids, Chloride,
Sodium, Sulfates
Land application of sludge Total Coliform Bacteria,
Nitrate, Metals
(Lead, Cadmium)
Intensive agriculture Total Coliform practices
Bacteria, Nitrate, Pesticide
Scan, pH, Total Dissolved
Solids
Livestock feedlots Total Coliform Bacteria,
Nitrate, Total Dissolved
Solids, Total Organic Carbons
Road salt Total Dissolved Solids,
Chloride, Sodium

When To Test

Private wells should be tested yearly for coliform
bacteria, nitrate, hardness and pH. Tests for iron,
sulfates and chloride should be done every three to five
years. If you are expecting a baby in your home you
should test for nitrate at the beginning of the
pregnancy. Depending on the test results, you may wish to
test again before bringing the baby home and during the
baby's first six months.

Even if you have a public water supply your water
should be tested for total coliform bacteria if you make
any changes in your plumbing or water treatment system
which could introduce a contaminant. Before buying a new
house have the water tested for bacteria and nitrate to
insure its quality. Lending agencies often require the
bacteria test before approving a loan.

If you have an old or shallow well, it is especially
important to test your water regularly. Older methods of
well construction, and the well's location in relation to
septic or livestock facilities on many farms, makes older
and shallow wells prone to contamination.

You should test for bacteria if your well head becomes
flooded or submerged. Following a chemical spill or leak
within 500 feet of your well, test your water for
possible contamination. Also test your water supply if
your neighbors have found contamination.
Report unknown contamination or objectionable taste,
odor or color in a private well to: Department of Public
Health.

Testing

Discuss your water problems with your county Health
Department or water testing lab. After contacting the lab
your next step will be to take the sample. Follow the
instructions from the lab closely. Keep a record of the
test results. The records will show any change in your
water quality you may not have noticed. Records are also
necessary if you need to prove an outside activity, such
as a spill or leak, affected your water supply.

Home screening tests

Currently on the market are screening tests to
conduct various water tests in your home, such as tests
for hardness, iron or nitrate. Many public agencies also
conduct screening programs as a public service.
Keep in mind these tests are a simplified version of
the tests conducted by a lab. The results do not indicate
if your water is safe to drink, only whether your sample
contains the tested contaminant and the approximate
level. These screening tests serve as useful tools for
indicating if further testing is needed. If the results
are positive, you should follow up with a test from a
lab.

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Everyone,

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- Live Chat just like the pro's do it.

- Real Time track stats

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The software has automatic reloads every 30 seconds. I can litterly sit and watch what page a potential client is reading all in real time. I also have the capability to send them a big box asking if they want to chat live with me. In just a week alone so far I have book multiple inspections from this feature. The potential client will also see that your online when they enter your site. This prompts some to talk to you live especially those who don't like direct phone contact. Go to the link above. Download the software. Unpack it. Rename the folder to livesupport. Drop the entire folder on your server. Open the folder and find the directions. It's very simple.

If you need someone to do it for you contact me at stlhomeinspector1@gmail.com

I also have a script that tracks how many times someone has clicked on your report download button.

There are many features about a home that make a
difference in the amount of energy needed for heating,
cooling and lighting. Thus, these features can have a
major impact on the amount of money you devote to
maintaining the winter and summer comfort of occupants.
This checklist will help you evaluate the energy-saving
potential of various housing features.

Housing features to consider include: Site; House
Design; Construction and Insulation; Heating and Cooling
System; Color and Lighting.

Site
House is located on south or southwest slope of hill
(sun hits at angle so greatest solar heat is received
through south windows in winter).

House is protected from winter wind by a hill or
placement of garage/carport (air infiltration and heat
loss are reduced when wind velocity is lower)

House is built into a hillside or partially into the
ground (the relatively constant year-round ground
temperature reduces winter heat loss through below-grade
walls and provides a cooling effect during summer).

The long axis of the house runs east and west (allows
more windows on the south to take advantage of winter
sun, and south windows can be protected from summer sun
by awnings, roof overhang, trees).

Large deciduous shade trees are planted on south and
west side of house (to provide summer shade during the
hottest part of the day, but allow winter sun to heat
house)

Low evergreen trees and shrubs or a slatted fence are
placed on side of house exposed to winter winds (to
provide a wind break and reduce air infiltration,; avoid
high evergreens on southeast, south and southwest as they
block winter sun from house).

House Design
Main roof ridge runs east and west (for better summer
cooling and to provide a more desirable location for a
solar heat collector in the future).

Shape of house is a slight rectangle (long rectangles
L-shapes H-shapes T-shapes and U-shapes provide more
outside wall surface for heatloss).

Entry halls for front and back doors can be closed
off to form "vestibules" (thus reducing flow of cold air
to inside and warm air to outside).

Main living area, where the living room, family room,
dining room and kitchen are located, has as few
partitions as possible (for best heat distribution).

Bedroom wing can be closed off (so heating and air-
conditioning can be reduced when not needed during the
day).

South windows have an overhang or awning deciduous
trees or vines (to shade from summer sun but allow winter
sun into the house).

East and especially west windows are kept to a
minimum and/or provided with shade trees and tall shrubs,
fences, awnings, tinted glass or other shading devices
(to keep out early morning and late afternoon sun in the
summer).

Amount of window area is no more than 10 to 15
percent of floor area (there is more heat loss through
glass, even double or triple glazing, than through an
insulated wall). Note: Before you decide to eliminate
certain openings, keep in mind that local building codes
may require that certain rooms of the house have windows
or doors to the outside. This is for safety's sake,
especially fire safety. Check with the building inspector
in your local area or county to be certain of
requirements.

Operable windows are placed so that cooling air can
travel through the house in summer and escape at a high
point of interior space (example: an operable window in
an upstairs hallway will draw off warm air from the
inside).

Attic ventilators are placed so air is drawn from
cooler, shady parts of house (under eaves for inlet of
cool air) and exhausted as high as possible (along ridge
of roof or at attic gable ends). Vents allow the escape
of unwanted moisture from attic in winter and lessen
attic heat build-up in summer (be sure ventilation is
adequate; at least one square foot of eave inlet and one
square foot of gable outlet for EACH 150 feet of ceiling
area is recommended. Periodically check vents, especially
eave vents, to see they are not obstructed by insulation
or other building materials.)

Chimney for fireplace is placed on an inside rather
than an outside wall (so heat is lost to inside of
house).

Fireplace is designed to heat the room (such as a
circulating type with a glass fire screen door to prevent
heat from the room being lost up the chimney) and has an
outside air intake for combustion of wood to prevent
furnace heated air from being used for combustion (newer
fireplace systems can be designed so duct-work connected
to the system provides outside air for combustion; check
with fireplace dealers in your area).

Plumbing fixtures are located close to water
heater(s) (to reduce heat loss from water as it moves
from tank to point of use).

Water heater is located in a heated space (even a
well-insulated heater loses more heat when placed in an
unheated area).

Stair wells to second floor or basement have tightly
sealed doors either at top or bottom of the stairs (to
prevent "chimney" effect and loss of heat to upper area).

Multi-family housing has "extra" energy saving
potential In this type of housing, each dwelling shares
one or more walls with other dwelling units (in
townhouses, duplexes, or apartments in mid- or high-rise
buildings, less wall space in each unit is exposed to the
outside, thus greatly reducing the amount of heat loss
from each unit through its walls, or ceiling and floor in
some cases).

Construction and Insulation

Insulated glass or storm windows used to reduce heat
loss (storm windows and double-pane insulated glass will
reduce heat loss by approximately 50 to 51 percent, while
triple-pane windows will reduce heat loss by
approximately 68 percent).

Storm doors used on all exterior doors (storm doors
will reduce heat loss through exterior doors by
approximately 35 to 40 percent).

Weatherstripping is installed around jambs of all
doors and operable windows (heat losses due to
infiltration can increase heating costs by sizeable
amounts).

Caulking around all door and window frames is in good
condition to reduce infiltration heat loss (caulking
normally dries out with time and needs replacing).

Heating ducts/runs are wrapped with insulation except
where they pass through heated rooms (metal runs in
unheated crawl spaces, basements and attics lose heat to
these cold areas). Note: If possible, the system should
be designed so heat runs do not pass through unheated
areas.

Hot water pipes are wrapped with insulation except
where they pass through heated areas (metal or plastic
pipes in unheated crawl spaces, basements and attics lose
heat to these cold areas Note: If possible, the water
supply system should be designed so pipes do not pass
through unheated areas.

Attic and gable areas are adequately ventilated (see
point above in design features section concerning attic
ventilation requirements).

Sill sealer/filler has been placed around top of
foundation wall below sill plate (to reduce infiltration
into basement area).

Heating and Cooling System

Thermostat is located on an inside room partition
(thermostats on exterior walls, near windows, near
heat-generating appliances, in drafts or in sunlight may
not react to actual room temperature, hence will not keep
room temperature within limits desired).

Heating controls are designed to allow for zoned
heating (permits heating of lightly used areas only as
needed). Note: In some homes, heating runs or registers
may be designed with dampers or valves which allow you to
stop the flow of heat into seldom used rooms (these can
be added by heating and cooling professionals); while in
other homes, zoned heating may be achieved by the use of
two thermostats, one controlling the bedroom area and one
controlling the living area (a more expensive
alternative).

Mechanical ventilators/fans in kitchen, bath and
laundry fit tightly, are weatherstripped and have
positive closure shutters (ventilators without shutters
allow excessive backdrafts of cold air into home).

Furnaces are located as centrally as possible in
house (to reduce lengths of both hot and cold runs to
shortest possible distance).

Furnace design and location permit easy access to air
filters (clogged filters reduce efficiency).

Humidity level of home is kept at 30 to 40 percent
during the heating season (warm air feels warmer and more
comfortable when humidity is present in the air; humidity
can reduce static electricity problems as well). Note:
Portable humidifiers located centrally in home will add
humidity, or power humidifiers connected to forced air
furnaces will add humidity.

Color and Lighting

Outside walls and roof are a light color if summer
heat is a greater problem than winter cold, such as in
uninsulated summer cabins (light colors reflect the sun's
heat while dark colors absorb it).

Interior wall and ceiling colors are light tints or
white (so both daylight and artificial light are
reflected more than absorbed).

Floor covering is medium to light in color (so light
reflectance will save on amount of artificial light
needed).

Overhead lights in living areas and bedrooms provide
good over-all light for less total wattage than several
lamps; lamps can then be used for task lighting of areas
as needed (simple fluorescent enclosed fixtures, flush
with the ceiling, will provide excellent light with
little energy use; incandescent fixtures may be preferred
by some).

All light fixtures are located so they can be easily
cleaned (dust on bulbs, tubes and fixtures reduces
illumination).