Welcome to the, “Twilight Zone”……..
It is a great feeling when we as home inspectors call for repairs by qualified repair persons, that we can go to sleep that night
after we send out the report, knowing that the repairs will be in good hands----to sleep well knowing that our buyers will continue to be as well taken care of by the repair person as they have been by their agent and their inspector.
It is great to know that when we are called back for the re-inspection of the repaired items, that the best part will be sharing a cup of coffee with the agent and the buyer and being able to sign off on what was done.
Welcome to the real world……..
A world where all too often repairs are done like the one in the picture to the left.
Spray foam insulation is a poor patching and exterior wall covering material for these damaged concrete blocks around the overhead door. And while it may keep out drafts and vermin (temporarily) it is no substitute for epoxy and concrete----as would be called for in this repair.
One could argue that this "repair" was worse than doing nothing at all since all that spray foam will all have to be removed in order to make "proper" repairs.
I have a hard time understanding what the person making repairs like this can possibly be thinking when they read the report and it calls for, “professional repairs by a qualified repair person.” These repairs are not “professional” and the person doing them was clearly “not qualified.”
Why would anyone conclude that a knowledgeable buyer, being advised by someone committed to taking care of them, would think that this kind of repair would fly? Add to this that someone is going to have to pay for another re-inspection fee. Wouldn’t it have just been cheaper to have done it right in the first place? It is not a pleasant sight to see me foaming at the mouth.
I wish I lived in the Twilight Zone.
Charles Buell
Click on the Rose to check out: AHA!---A Forum of Landmark Proportions---your Group
PS, for those of you that are new to my blog (or for some other "unexplained" reason have never noticed)
all pictures and smiley-face inserts (emoticons) (when I use them) have messages that show up when you point at them with your cursor.
DeCroe, is my "etherial" home inspector assistant and occasionally flies into my blog and other people's blogs to offer assistance. To find out more about her beginnings just click on Raven.
With the exception of a missing handrail for the stairs, this installation meets “code” requirements. The platform outside of the door is 29-3/4” above the patio surface. If it was over 30” a guard rail would be required to prevent falls from the platform. This is a great example of the “minimum standards” aspect of the building codes. To me this installation represents a serious safety issue and should be made safe. Besides the fact that most people would not want to walk off this platform in the dark and fall into one of the planters, imagine trying to negotiate the stairs and wrestle the door open (or closed) at the same time----with no hand railing or barrier railing. Another thing to consider is wind. Imagine opening the door from the inside and having it be caught by the wind. Would you let go of the door and allow it to slam against the outside wall of the house or would you attempt to hang onto it and be dragged screaming into one of the waiting planters?
Charles Buell
Click on the Rose to check out: AHA!---A Forum of Landmark Proportions---your Group
PS, for those of you that are new to my blog (or for some other "unexplained" reason have never noticed)
all pictures and smiley-face inserts (emoticons) (when I use them) have messages that show up when you point at them with your cursor.
DeCroe, is my "etherial" home inspector assistant and occasionally flies into my blog and other people's blogs to offer assistance. To find out more about her beginnings just click on Raven.
As is indicated by the “bluish” highlighted areas in the picture, these are areas of enamel steel type tubs that the moisture meter often finds indications of moisture behind the wall covering. On a recent new construction inspection I found a great example that shows why this is so. Steel tubs like this typically have a flange that runs up behind the wall covering to reduce the chance of water finding its way into the wall. The problem with this flange is that it does not run all the way to the edge of the tub or down the side. In this next picture one can see the flange where it stops at the black opening that is a hole all the way through. Really this opening should be properly caulked and sealed previous to installation of the finish surface to reduce the risk of water penetrating this area. Then of course the gap should be properly caulked after the finish wall surface is installed. The way these tubs are constructed speaks to the importance of keeping grout and caulk in good condition. Similar indications of moisture are also very common at the inside corners of the tub because this flange does not wrap around the corner but instead ends just before the corner----just like in the picture at the front of the tub. This creates an ideal place for moisture to find its way into the wall at the corners due to improper caulking of the corner prior to installation of the wall surface and poor caulking at the wall surface connection with the tub. Doesn’t it make you wonder why they would build the tub this way? Apparently it has to do with the way these steel tubs are manufactured and enameled that make it very difficult to do a proper flange all the way around the tub like a plastic tub would have----and part of what makes this type of tub a “cheap” choice in tubs. I think now you can see why inspectors are so adamant about keeping these areas well sealed/caulked.
Charles Buell
Click on the Rose to check out: AHA!---A Forum of Landmark Proportions---your Group
PS, for those of you that are new to my blog (or for some other "unexplained" reason have never noticed)
all pictures and smiley-face inserts (emoticons) (when I use them) have messages that show up when you point at them with your cursor.
DeCroe, is my "etherial" home inspector assistant and occasionally flies into my blog and other people's blogs to offer assistance. To find out more about her beginnings just click on Raven.
I have done posts to my blog in the past about the stairs, and how as a component in the home, they are perhaps one of the most difficult things to get right.
There is tread width, riser height, riser/tread ratios, consistency of riser height, nosings, stair width, slope of treads and many other factors.
Side barriers and hand railings are more things to take into account.
On a recent new townhouse I found a hand rail that was not parallel to the run of stairs. As in this next picture “A” and “B” should be equal.
In this case the railing at the top of the stairs, from a point at the stair nosing vertical to the handrail, measured over 41.”
At the bottom the height was 37.”

This meant that “A” and “B” could not be equal.
Current regulations require the hand rail to be between 34” and 38” from the nosing vertical to the handrail.
While this might not be considered a “major” safety issue----it is new construction----and thus should meet the requirements at the time of construction.
Charles Buell
Click on the Rose to check out: AHA!---A Forum of Landmark Proportions---your Group
PS, for those of you that are new to my blog (or for some other "unexplained" reason have never noticed)
all pictures and smiley-face inserts (emoticons) (when I use them) have messages that show up when you point at them with your cursor.
DeCroe, is my "etherial" home inspector assistant and occasionally flies into my blog and other people's blogs to offer assistance. To find out more about her beginnings just click on Raven.
I have posted in the past about attic ventilation and how there are many ways to achieve good attic ventilation. Ventilation can consist of passive means that utilize soffit vents, roof vents, gable vents and ridge vents. Sometimes mechanical means are utilized with the installation of wind driven turbine type vents, and sometimes electrically or solar powered vents are installed. See these three links to past posts to learn more about roof ventilation:
When the trades don't talk to each other, @#$% happens!
For my money, any time passive approaches can be utilized to do the job this should be encouraged as the use of electricity is costly.
By far the best passive approach is the use of soffit vents in conjunction with ridge vents. I have done several posts in the past regarding the Venturi effect that is created with the use of ridge vents and how this effect helps this approach be superior to roof vents and gable vents. I have also posted as to why combinations of systems are a problem.
At a recent inspection of a 5 year old townhouse, inadequate ventilation of the attic was evidenced by the beginning presence of mold or mold-like/fungal growth on the roof sheathing. Movement of air through the attic needs to be sufficient to prevent moisture laden air to stagnate where it can condense on the cold roof surface. Moisture was likely finding its way into this attic through poorly sealed ceiling fans and an attic access hatch that was not weather-stripped. The ventilation system was not adequate to keep this moisture flushed out of the attic space. Moisture laden air can also move into the attic from the exterior as well.
In this first picture one can see the darkening of the roof surface between the trusses where the mold or mold-like fungal growth is beginning to form.

The interesting thing about this structure was that provision for a ridge vent was made for installation of a ridge vent but it was never installed. Note the gap at the ridge in the next picture. The black area is the roof felt paper covering over the hole that was left for the ridge vent. At the center bottom of the picture can be seen the lone gable vent that is cut in half by the end wall framing----further compromising the effectiveness of what was already inadequate.

While most aspects of home construction are not in themselves “rocket science,” the building science aspect of the home comes pretty close. All of the trades----all of those putting the pieces together, should have proper interdisciplinary training in Building Science in order to better understand how the building works as a whole.
In this case all openings into the attic space will need to be properly sealed and/or weather-stripped, the continuous type ridge vent will need to be installed, and the gable vent will need to be removed.
Charles Buell
Click on the Rose to check out: AHA!---A Forum of Landmark Proportions---your Group
PS, for those of you that are new to my blog (or for some other "unexplained" reason have never noticed)
all pictures and smiley-face inserts (emoticons) (when I use them) have messages that show up when you point at them with your cursor.
DeCroe, is my "etherial" home inspector assistant and occasionally flies into my blog and other people's blogs to offer assistance. To find out more about her beginnings just click on Raven.
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