Curtis Petty

Most emissions from homes are from the fossil fuels burned to generate electricity and heat.
By using energy more efficiently at home, you can reduce your emissions and lower your
energy bills by more than 30%.

In addition, since agriculture is responsible for about a fifth of the world's greenhouse
gas emissions, you can reduce your emissions simply by watching what you eat.

For a family of four in a 15-hundred square foot house, on average you'll pay about
40-bucks a month just on the heating portion of your power bill, but using a programmable
thermostat drop that price saving you money.

During an average work week you spend well over 40- hours outside your home and without
a programmable thermostat, your heat is running without anyone to enjoy it.Programmable
thermostats are great because when you're away from your home particularly, if you are
working and have regular work hours. you can turn it down during the day and have it come
up an hour or so before you come home.By turning your heat down for even just a few hours each day,Ga Power says you can reduce the heating portion of your bill by at least 10-percent each month.

*Heating: Lower the thermostat a few degrees or consider installing a programmable
thermostat to cut your heating bill. Have your furnace tuned up and clean air filters
monthly.

*Lighting: replacing incandescent bulbs with compact fluorescent light bulbs. They use
one-fourth the amount of electricity and last ten times longer.

*Water Heating: Turn the water heater thermostat to 120-degrees F. Fix dripping faucets
and install low-flow faucet aerators. Run only full loads in the dishwasher.

*Almost half of the energy we use in our homes goes to heating and cooling. You could save
about 2,000 pounds of carbon dioxide a year with this simple adjustment.

*CFLs use 60% less energy than a regular bulb. This simple switch will save about 300 pounds
of carbon dioxide a year. If every family in the U.S. made the switch, we'd reduce carbon
dioxide by more than 90 billion pounds.

*Cleaning a dirty air filter can save 350 pounds of carbon dioxide a year.

Accurate Home Inspection of Atlanta- www.Findmeaninspector.com

Many groups and individuals are proposing that our government spend tax money on research and development of systems to utilize solar energy. They urge construction of vast solar energy collectors to convert sunlight to electricity to supply our energy needs. They would even put solar collectors on roofs of homes, factories, schools, and other buildings. Proponents of this technology claim that energy obtained from the sun will be safer and cleaner than coal, oil, or nuclear energy sources.

We view these proposals with alarm. Unscrupulous scientists and greedy promoters are hoodwinking a gullible public. We consider it rash and dangerous to commit our country to the use of solar energy. This solar technology has never been utilized on such a large scale, and we have no assurance of its long-range safety. Not one single study has been done to assess the safety of electricity from solar energy as compared to electricity from other sources.

The promoters of solar energy cleverly lead you to believe that it is perfectly safe. Yet they conveniently neglect to mention that solar energy is generated by nuclear fusion within the sun. This process operates on the very same basic laws of nuclear physics used in nuclear power plants and atomic bombs!

And what is the source of this energy? It is hydrogen, a highly explosive gas (remember the Hindenberg?) Hydrogen is also the active material in H-bombs, that are not only tremendously destructive, but produce dangerous fallout. The glib advocates of solar energy don't even mention these disturbing facts about the true sources of solar energy. What else are they trying to hide from us?

In addition to the known dangers cited above, what about the unknown dangers, that very well might be worse? When pressed, scientists will admit that they do not fully understand the workings of the sun, or even of the atom. They will even grudgingly admit that our knowledge of the basic laws of physics is not yet perfect or complete. Yet these same reckless scientists would have us use this solar technology even before we fully understand how it works.

Admittedly we are already subject to a natural `background' radiation from the sun. We can do little about that, except to stay out of direct sunlight as much as possible. The evidence is already clear that too much exposure to sunlight can cause skin cancer. But solar collectors would concentrate that sunlight (that otherwise would have fallen harmlessly on waste land), convert it to electricity and pipe it into our homes to irradiate us from every light bulb! We would then not even be safe from this cancer-producing energy even in our own homes!

We all know that looking at the sun for even a few seconds can cause blindness. What long term health hazards might result from reading by light derived from solar energy? We now spend large amounts of time looking at the light from television monitors or computer screens, and one can only imagine the possible long-term consequences of this exposure when the screens are powered with electricity from solar collectors. Will we develop cataracts, or slowly go blind? Not one medical study has yet addressed itself to this question, and none are planned.

In their blind zeal to plug us in to solar energy, scientists seem to totally ignore possible fire hazards of solar energy. Sunlight reaching us directly from the sun at naturally safe levels poses little fire threat. But all one has to do is concentrate sunlight, with a simple burning- glass, and it readily ignites combustible materials. Who would feel safe with solar energy concentrators on their roof? Could we afford the fire insurance rates?

These scientists, and the big corporations that employ them, stand to profit greatly from construction of solar-power stations. No wonder they try to hide the dangers of the technology and suppress any open discussion of them.

Proponents of solar energy present facts, figures and graphs to support their claim that energy from the sun will be less expensive, as conventional fuel supplies dwindle and technology of solar energy systems improves. But even if this is so, what will stop the solar energy equipment manufacturers and solar power companies from raising prices when they achieve a monopoly and other fuel sources disappear?

Of course every technology has risks. We might be willing to tolerate some small risk-if solar energy really represented a permanent solution to our energy problems. But that is not the case. At best, solar energy is only a temporary band-aid. Recent calculations indicate that the "Sun Will Go Out in a Billion Years As Its Fuel Runs Out" (Source: newspaper headline) As that calculation was made a year ago, we now have only nine-hundred ninety-nine million, nine-hundred ninety-nine thousand, nine-hundred and ninety-nine years left during which we could use solar energy. Wouldn't it be better to put our human resources and scientific brains to work to find a safer and more permanent solution to our energy needs?

(c) 1978, 1994 by Donald E. Simanek, Lock Haven University, Lock Haven, PA 17745.

Before sending comments, read this additional information about this important issue.

Return to Donald Simanek's page.

Accurate Home Inspection of Atlanta

Consumer Information:

Preventing moisture from reaching high levels in your house is the simplest and easiest way to prevent mold. There are several no-cost and low-cost ways to do it.

If your house has a crawl space with a dirt floor, cover the floor with a continuous sheet of 6-mil polyethylene.
Make sure water from your roof goes away from your house by leading downspouts away from the foundation.

Ensure that the ground around your house slopes away from the house.

When you shower or bathe,use the bathroom fan;allow it to run for 15 minutes or longer. Bathroom and kitchen fans should exhaust outside. When cooking, use the kitchen fan to get rid of moisture and odours.

Areas of your house below grade, such as the basement or crawl space, usually have higher relative humidity than grade-level and above-grade floors. If you have a basement, use a dehumidifier and run it from spring until fall with the basement windows closed. Run a dehumidifier in your basement, even if you have an air conditioner. Remember that an air conditioner dehumidifies only when it is running.

Do not humidify unless absolutely necessary. First, measure the relative humidity with a hygrometer. Readings of 25 to 35 per cent relative humidity in the winter are acceptable.

If you need humidity at night, use a portable humidifier in your bedroom. Monitor the relative humidity and cycle the unit on and off as necessary. Air the room out to dry during the day. Clean the humidifier after each use.

Don't keep unused materials and furnishings in your basement. Materials such as paper, cardboard and clothing absorb moisture and can grow mold. Store as little paper, cardboard and clothing items as possible in your basement and keep them off floors and walls.

Carpets in the basement or bathroom are likely places for molds to grow. It is best not to have carpets in these areas.

Don't hang clothes to dry in the basement. Use your clothes dryer and make sure it is vented to the outside. Do not store firewood inside the house.

Do not leave areas of the house unheated. Cold, unheated or damp areas in the house are likely to get moldy. Excessive thermostat setbacks at night also encourage mold growth. Act immediately if you have a leak or a flood.

Clean up small areas of mold yourself, following CMHC's Clean up procedures for mold in houses or Fighting mold: The homeowner's guide. Get professional help if there is a lot of mold.
Consult CMHC's The clean air guide to deal with dirt floors, crawl spaces and cold cellars.
Reducing chemical contaminants

Contamination from common household chemicals can be a threat both to people with asthma and to people who do not have asthma.

Do not paint or renovate when the house is closed up. Use only new, low-odour paints and check that the paint is not spoiled before using. Test paint before using it to make sure it does not leave a residual odour. See CMHC's Building materials for the environmentally hypersensitive for information about paints.

Remove sources of chemical odours, such as perfumes and furniture made of particleboard, medium-density fibreboard, plywood or oriented strand board (OSB) from your bedroom. Use hardwood furniture and flooring made of solid hardwood rather than pressed or laminated wood. Do not store paints, lacquers and solvents inside your house. There are no quick ways to making your house a contaminant-free house. Ozone generators are not recommended, because ozone is an irritant that may aggravate asthma.The effectiveness of ozone to control mold and other pollutants is questionable.

Similarly, portable air cleaners may not solve all your indoor air problems. The recommended approach is to find the sources of contaminants and remove or reduce them.

Although the conventional human health toxicity of natural gas has been assumed to be low, many people with chemical sensitivities react extremely adversely in the presence of even minute traces of natural gas. This adverse reaction may either be owing to impurities or odourants in the gas, or to the gas itself. Methane, the main component of natural gas, is believed to have low conventional toxicity but is an asphyxiant. Inhalation of high concentrations of methane can cause symptoms ranging from a craving for fresh air, rapid and irregular breathing, headache, fatigue and exhaustion, to loss of consciousness, convulsions and death from hypoxemia (Environment Canada 1984:56-7). In most of the population, lower concentrations of methane (5% in air) create no systemic effects. Skin contact of liquid natural gas may cause frostbite (Environment Canada 1984:57). The exact effects of low levels of methane on people with heightened chemical sensitivities are not documented, but are reported to be severe in clinical accounts of individuals with sensitivities. It is not uncommon for individuals with chemical sensitivities to react adversely to levels of natural gas at the threshhold of chemical detection ability.

The use of natural gas in the home, as fuel for heating or cooking, is a health issue for healthy individuals and especially for people with environmental illnesses, allergies, and chemical sensitivities. The concentration of combustion products from natural gas appliances in indoor environments has wide-ranging health consequences. Furthermore, the natural gas itself causes adverse reactions in sensitive individuals.

Hydrogen sulfide (H2S) is a highly toxic compound present in some natural gas deposits. During its removal from the sales gas, the refinery process emits sulfur dioxide and hydrogen sulfide into the air. There is epidemiological evidence that this has adverse effects on children's respiratory systems.

Some natural gas deposits have a high concentration of hydrogen sulfide (H2S), which poses significant environmental and health concerns. Hydrogen sulfide is a colourless, highly toxic gas with a strong smell of rotten eggs (Gosselin et al 1984:198). It is produced naturally by decaying organic matter, and is also released from sewage sludge, oil refineries, liquid manure, sulphur hot springs, and natural gas.

Human toxicity of hydrogen sulfide: H2S is toxic in concentrations as low as 50 ppm, and concentrations of 0.1-0.2% are usually fatal within minutes (Gosselin et al 1984:199). Since the body has a mechanism for detoxifying sulfide, toxicity of H2S is related more to concentration than length of exposure (Gosselin 1984:199).

Although H2S has a strong odour, continual low level exposure leads to loss of the sense of smell. This makes it possible for humans to be unknowingly exposed to dangerous levels. Low level of H2S result in irritation of the eyes, nose and throat. Moderate levels can cause headache, dizziness, vomiting, as well as cough and difficulty in breathing. High levels can cause shock, convulsions, coma and death. Survivors of acute toxic exposure to H2S sometimes experience neurological dysfunction, such as amnesia, tremor, disturbance of equilibrium, or more serious brain damage, as well as persistent ill-health following exposure (Gosselin 1984:200). Although acute toxicity for higher concentrations of H2S is established, there are few studies on chronic low level exposure to H2S (Schechter 1989). This is a serious deficiency.

Accidental release of concentrated H2S may result from infrequent blowouts of natural gas wells which have high levels of H2S. Although the risk is low, the acute toxicity of H2S implies that this may have a serious affect on the health of nearby human populations.Radioactive radon and radium are present in natural gas. Radon is known to contribute to the development of lung cancer. Using natural gas as a fuel source in the home can increase the total concentration of indoor radon.

Naturally Occurring Radioactive Material (NORM) is found in soil, water, petroleum, natural gas, coal, lignite, phosphate, geothermal waste, wastewater, humans and animals . One of the most common NORMs is radon (Rn222), a colourless, odourless gas produced from Radium decay and a decay product of radioactive uranium. Ra226 has half life of 1,602 years, while radon has a short half-life of only 3.8 days, after which it emits 4 highly reactive "radon daughters".

Radon is commonly found in natural gas deposits, ground water and soil, and is a common indoor air contaminant in basements where it seeps through the foundation and is concentrated in enclosed spaces. Nova Scotians are already exposed to radon in soil and water. Because of the geology of Nova Scotia, it is highly likely that natural gas deposits off Sable Island also contain high levels of radium and radon. Household use of natural gas containing radon is a human health issue. When used in the home, natural gas may be a source of radon exposure because it is released upon burning . The levels of radon in gas in the home depends on the concentration of radon in the gas deposit as well as the distance of the source of gas from the home. The level of radon in sales gas decreases with distance from the natural gas deposit because of its short half-life of 3.8 days, when half will deposit as lead in the pipes before reaching the homes.

Sulfur-containing odourants are added to sales gas to enable leaks to be detected by scent. Although these odours are present at concentrations which are not considered toxic to most individuals, their odour can cause nausea and headaches in healthy individuals. The reaction to these odourants is likely to be much more severe in people with chemical sensitivities.

Because natural gas itself has no odour, small amounts of odourants are added to the sales gas so that gas leaks can be recognised before concentrations reach a dangerously flammable or explosive level (intended concentration is such that odour will be detected at approximately one-fifth of the lower flammability limit, or about 4-24 grams of odourant per km3 gas (Environment Canada 1984:30). These odourants are sulfur compounds, and include mercaptans (ethyl mercaptan (methanethiol), methyl mercaptan, isopropyl mercaptan, T-butyl mercaptan), thioesthers and thioaromatics (Environment Canada 1984:30). The potential toxicity of these odourants raises issues concerning the safety of the use of natural gas in homes, especially for people with multiple chemical sensitivities. Adequate testing on odourant toxicity has not been conducted using people with chemical sensitivity. This should be part of the impacts assessment of the proposed Sable pipeline project. AEHA-NS requests for funding for such testing were denied.

Mercaptans are a common air contaminant. They contain sulfur and are able to capture elemental mercury. Exposure to Mercaptan odours can cause nausea or headaches. In high concentrations, mercaptans can cause cold extremities and rapid pulse, and may induce unconsciousness with cyanosis (Sax and Lewis 1987:600), or even death (Gosselin et al 1984:116). Mercaptans are dangerous when heated to decomposition because they emit highly toxic SOx fumes. Furthermore, they will react with water, steam or acids to produce toxic and flammable vapours, and can react violently with oxidizing compounds.

Methanethiol (also known as methylmercaptan, mercaptomethane, thiomethyl alcohol) is a mercaptan gas which is commonly used as an odourant in natural gas. Its unpleasant odour is detectable by most people at 1 part in 140 million, however it may be detected at much smaller concentrations by highly sensitive individuals. Animal toxicological studies have shown that 0.16% methanethiol, 3.3% ethanethiol or 9.6% dimethyl-sulfide induce coma in 50% of rats exposed during a 15 minute period. However, the effects wear off after 30 minutes away from the gas. Human toxicity is proven through the case of a man found comatose within an hour after respiratory exposure to an unknown concentration of methane-thiol. The man experienced severe transient haemolytic anemia, and died 28 days after exposure, never recovering from the coma. It is suggested that methanethiol toxicity is similar to that of hydrogen sulfide.

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1.Improperly compacted backfill and fill present around the foundation. All backfill and fill should be placed in 6" to 8" layers and tampered for proper compaction. This could allow items like the driveway, sidewalk and front porch steps to settle. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 406.3.4)

2.Grading does not slope away from the foundation. Lots should be graded to drain surface water away from the foundation walls. The grade away from the foundation walls should fall a minimum of 6" within the first 10 feet. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 401.3 &406.3.5)

3.Grading might hold ground water. The code requires all drainage to be diverted away from the yard. Surface drainage shall be diverted to a storm sewer conveyance or other point of collection. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 401.3)

4.Foundations with improperly compacted fill. Could probe under the footings. Fills which support footings and foundations shall be designed, installed and tested in accordance with accepted engineering practices. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 401.2)

5. No vapor barrier present for a concrete slab. This could allow water or moisture problems in the basement. A vapor barrier is required under all interior slabs except garages. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 505.2.3)

6.Improper wall bracing for a 1 or 2 story structure. The corner exterior walls are missing proper bracing. Exterior walls shall be braced at each corner and at least every 25 feet with approved structural sheathing or 1x4 let-in braces or approved metal straps diagonally tied from the bottom plate to the
top plate. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 602.9)

7.Improper wall bracing for a 3 story structure. The corner exterior walls are missing proper bracing. All exterior corner walls shall be braced at each corner and at least every 25 feet with a minimum of 48" of approved structural sheathing. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 602.9)

8.Exterior windows and doors do not have properly installed flashing and weep holes at the brick. Flashing is required above all doors and windows installed in brick and prevents water from soaking behind the brick running into the structure. Without weep holes to drain the water to the outside, flashing serves no purpose. Flashing and weepholes are required at all brick shelf angles over all doors and windows. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 703.7.4 & 703.8)

9.Exterior wood not properly protected. Some of the exterior wood has open joints which will allow moisture to enter and will cause deterioration. Some of the paint is peeling off the wood trim. The trim may not be properly primed to bond the paint to the wood. Proper caulking and painting are needed. All exterior walls shall be covered with approved materials designed and installed to provide a barrier against the weather. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 703.1)

10. Exterior wood siding trim not properly caulked or sealed at the brick or concrete foundation walls to prevent water and moisture from damaging the wood. Water will run behind the wood and cause deterioration. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 703.1)

11. Some of the exterior cement siding has recessed nails. Recessed nails lose their holding strength in fiber cement siding. All manufacturers require the nails to be flush and not recessed. The recessed nails should be caulked and another flush nail installed next to it. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 108.1)

12. Exterior openings in the structure are not sealed. This will allow air leaks into the structure. All exterior joints in the building envelope, that are sources of air leaks, shall be caulked, gasketed, weather-stripped or otherwise sealed in an approved manner. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 1004.1)

13.Chimney height is not tall enough. This could be a potential fire hazard. All chimneys shall extend 2' higher than any portion of roof within 10' and at least 3' higher than the roof penetration. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 1004.1)

14.Roof shingles have toe board nail holes present. Toe boards are walk boards the roofers use. Any holes in the shingles could turn into a roof leak. All shingles with holes should be replaced or sealed with a sealant that will last as long as the shingles. Roof shingles shall provide a barrier against
the weather to protect its supporting elements and structure beneath. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 901.2)

15.Roof shingles are missing roofing felt at the sheathing along the eaves. This protects the roof sheathing. Slopes of 4 in 12 or greater, one layer of felt is required over all of the roof decking. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 902.2)

16.Step flashing is missing at sloped vertical walls. Some of the roof flashing at the vertical walls is continuous flashing. Flashing prevents water from entering at the intersection of the wall and the roof. Continuous flashing was used successfully for many years. However, step flashing is a far superior method of flashing and is required for all roofing. Flashing against a vertical sidewall shall be the step-flashing method. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 903.6)

17 Deck footings are smaller than the minimum allowable size of 12" x 12". See Figure 403.1a, note #5 and Table 502.3.3b. Footings shall comply with Section 403. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 325.5)

18. Deck footings do not extend 12" below grade. All footings must be below the frost line. In no case shall exterior footings be less than 12 inches below grade. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Figure 403.1a, note #1)

19.Deck stair handrail is not the correct size. Handrails that are 2x4 or larger are too large to be used for handrails since they cannot be gripped. Handrails shall have either a circular cross section with a diameter of 1 1/4" to 2", or a noncircular crosssection with a perimeter dimension of at least 4" but not more than 6 1/4" and a largest cross section dimension not exceeding 2 3/4". Edges shall have a minimum radius of 1/8". (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 315.2)

20. Exterior deck is missing properly installed flashing. Flashing prevents water from entering behind the deck and into the structure. Flashing is required where decks attach to a wall or floor assembly of wood frame construction. Exterior balconies, decks and porches shall be flashed in accordance
with section 703.8. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 325.2.1)

21.Some of the roof framing has ridge beams that are too small and do not extend to the bottom of the rafters. The ridge must extend down to the bottom of the rafters to properly support the rafters. The ridge shall not be less in depth than the cut end of the rafters. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code,
Section 802.3)

22.Roof purlin supports, supporting the rafters, are double 2x4's which are not the proper size. The purlins should be single 2x6's turned perpendicular to the rafters which are stronger and less expensive than flat 2x4's. Purlins shall be sized no less than the size of the rafters they support.
(1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 802.4.1)

23.Some of the rafter purlins support post exceed 48 inches apart. Additional support post are required to properly support the purlins. All rafter purlins must be braced every 48 inches to a load bearing wall or support. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 802.4.1)

24.Some of the rafter purlins are spliced between the support posts. Support members are not allowed to be spliced without additional support installed. All purlins should be spliced directly above a support post. Purlins must be continuous between braces. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 802.4.1)

25.Roof framing support members have "V" joint or bird mouth splices that are not properly reinforced or supported by a support post to a load bearing wall below. All load bearing beams must be supported at any splice. Roof framing shall be capable of supporting all loads imposed and shall transmit the
resulting loads to its supporting structural elements. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 801.2)

26.Attic is missing floor from the end of the attic stairs to the furnace. This makes it dangerous to climb over the stairs to access the flooring at the furnace. All attics must have an unobstructed, floored passageway 22" wide x 30" high to the furnace. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section
1401.5) (2000 Standard Mechanical Code 306.3)

27.Attic insulation certification card is missing. This is required to verify the attic has the proper amount of insulation. The insulation installer shall provide a signed and dated certification for the insulation installed, listing the type of insulation, the manufacturer and the R-value. (1995 CABO Model Energy Code Sect. 102.1.2)

28.Attic insulation thickness markers are missing. One thickness marker is required every 300 s.f. of floor area. The thickness of roof/ceiling blown insulation shall be identified by the thickness markers. (1995 CABO Model Energy Code Sect. 102.1.3)

29.Attic insulation is not deep enough. Sometimes the insulation settles and is not deep enough. The insulation installer certifies the minimum thickness of the insulation. (1995 CABO Model Energy Code Sect. 102.1.2)

30.Attic is missing firestopping at an open chase. A chase is an opening in the attic floor that could allow a fire, from the story below, to enter the attic. All openings in the attic floor need sealing with drywall. Firestopping is required at each floor, at the attic floor and at all roof penetrations. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 602.7)

31.Basement ceiling needs firestopping around all pipe penetrations. Firestopping prevents a fire from spreading to different parts of the structure. Firestopping is required at all openings around vents, pipes, ducts, chimneys and fireplaces at ceiling and floor levels, with noncombustible materials.
(1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 602.7)

32.Doors and windows are missing shims and anchors along the jambs. All doors and windows need shimming along the jambs (sides) and proper anchorage for a proper installation. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 108.1)

33.Bedroom windows not large enough to be used for an emergency exit. Each bedroom shall have an operable window with sill height no more than 44" above the floor. Minimum clear height of 22" or minimum width of 20". The net clear opening shall be 4 square feet. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling
Code, Section 310.2)

34.Fireplace has wood trim within too close to the opening. Wood to close to the opening is a fire hazard and could catch fire. Woodwork or other combustible materials shall not be placed within 6 inches of a fireplace opening. Combustible material within 12 inches of the fireplace opening shall no project more than 1/8 inch for each 1 inch distance from such opening. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 1003.10)

35.Fireplace gas starter valve is not accessible while lighting the starter. This allows a dangerous build-up of gas before being able to light the burner. Fireplace gas starters must be within 4' of the valve. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 2606.4)

36.Step heights or tread depths are not the proper size. These are potential trip hazards. The maximum allowable step height is 7 3/4". The minimum allowed depth of the tread is 9". (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 314.2)

37.Step heights or tread widths vary in a flight of stairs. The different step heights or widths could be a trip hazard. Risers (heights) and treads (widths) may not vary more than 3/8". (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 314.2)

38.Stair tread nosing or overhang extends too far over the step below. The edge of the steps could break with the grain of the wood allowing someone to fall down the stairs. The maximum allowable overhang is 1 1/4". (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 314.2.1)

39.Top basement step is not deep enough. Sometimes the oak flooring overhangs the top tread too far. This is a potential trip hazard. The minimum allowed depth of the tread is 9". (314.2) The maximum allowable projection or nosing is 1 1/4". (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 314.2.1)

40.Stairs are missing a 36" deep landing at the bottom of the stairs between the bottom step and the door. Any flight of stairs that are used for an emergency exit must have a landing at the bottom before opening a door. A minimum of 3 foot landing shall be required on each side of an egress door.
(1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 312.1)

41.Door to the basement is missing a door sweep and weather-stripping. Unconditioned air can enter the conditioned space. Any opening from a conditioned space to a non-conditioned space must be weather-stripped or sealed. (1995 CABO Model Energy Code 502.3 & 602.3)

42.Basement ceiling height is too low. Basement ceiling ducts are too low and will prevent installing a ceiling at the proper height. Habitable shall have a ceiling height of not less than 7 feet 6 inches. Furred areas shall have a ceiling height of not less than 7 feet. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 305.1)

43.Garage floor does not slope enough to prevent liquids from running under the walls. Flammable liquids could run under the walls into the structure and be ignited by the basement furnace or water heater. That area of floor used for parking of automobiles or other vehicles shall be sloped to facilitate the movement of liquids to a drain or toward the main vehicle entry doorway. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 309.3)

44.Garage furnace and water heater gas piping is not protected from possible impact. An automobile could hit the piping and cause a gas leak. The pipe must be protected from possible impact. (2000 Standard Gas Code 305.4)

45.Ground fault circuit interrupter electrical outlet is missing at a wet location. Any electrical outlet located in the bathrooms, kitchen counter area, unfinished basement, garage or on the exterior of the structure that can be reached from the ground, must be GFCI protected. (1999 NEC 210-8(6))

46. Ground fault circuit interrupter electrical outlet is missing at a sink. Any electrical outlet located within 6 feet of a sink or basin must be GFCI protected. (1999 NEC 210-8(b)

47. No heating and air conditioning damper system present to balance the heating and air conditioning. A two story structure with a single heat and air conditioning system, will find it difficult to balance the heating and cooling. A readily accessible manual or automatic damper system shall be provided to partially restrict or shut off the heating and/or cooling input to each zone or floor. (1995 CABO Model Energy Code 503.6.3 & 603.3.2.1)

48.Furnace ductwork not properly sealed to prevent air leakage in nonconditioned areas. Sometimes the duct insulation is sealed, but the actual ducts are not sealed. All ducts must be sealed at the furnace and at the register boots. All joints shall be securely fastened and sealed with welds, gaskets,
mastic adhesives, mastic-plus-embedded-fabric systems or tapes. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 1401.5)(1994 Standard Mechanical
Code 304.4)(2000 Standard Mechanical Code 306.3)

49.Attic furnace does not have the required working platform in front of the furnace for servicing. This makes it difficult to service the unit or change the filter. A working platform, 30" deep with a clear headroom of 30" high, is required along the control side of the furnace.
(1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 1401.5)(1994 Standard Mechanical Code 304.4)(2000 Standard Mechanical Code 306.3)

50.Range is missing anti-tip brackets on the rear feet to prevent tipping over. All manufacturer's supply anti-tip brackets with all free standing ranges to prevent tipping. A heavy object such as a turkey can be placed on the open door causing the range to tip spilling hot liquids from the burners. (1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code, Section 108.1)

51.Improper Venting of Water Heater:
All gas appliances create carbon monoxide that must be vented outside the home using properly secured metal vent pipe. Loose, corroded or improperly pitched vent pipe can result in carbon monoxide entering household air. Screws should be used to secure all joints. Minor amounts of carbon monoxide can cause headaches and dizziness while higher levels of carbon monoxide can be fatal. Consider installing a carbon monoxide detector in or near sleeping areas.

52. Ungrounded Electric Service Panel:
All main service panels must have at least one permanent and uninterrupted connection to the earth. Newer panels require two connections. Some panels may have a ground rod driven 8' or more into the ground while others are connected to underground water pipes. If a home is connected to a city water supply, a jumper wire from one side of the water meter to the other is required. This wire is frequently missing. A qualified electrician should repair this defect.

53. Building Violations Where Additions and Alterations Were Constructed without Permits:
Homeowners will often tell a home inspector, "We added the garage without a permit, but it was all done to code." This statement is a red flag to most home inspectors, because no one could possibly know the entire building code, and the average person without professional involvement with the code is likely to know very little of it. Whenever an owner offers code assurance, I know that problems are likely to be found.

54.Faulty Installation of Water Heaters:
In most localities, less than 5% of all water heaters are installed in full compliance with plumbing code requirements. Violations can include inadequate strapping, improperly installed overflow piping, unsafe flue conditions, or faulty gas piping. It should also be remembered that today's water heaters are designed to have shorter longevity than in times of yore. In fact, leaks can develop in units that are only five years old.

55.Firewall Violations In Garages:
Special fire-resistive construction is required for walls and doors that separate a garage from a dwelling.
Violations are common, either due to faulty construction, damage or alterations to the garage interior, or
changes in code requirements since the home was built. In older homes, where firewalls are not installed,
sellers and agents will often say that the building predates the code. However, the fire separation requirement for residential garages dates back to 1927.

56.The ICC model energy code 2000 code number 602.1.5 deals with Basement walls as follows: Where the basement is considered a conditioned space, the basement walls shall be insulated in accordance with
Table 602.1. Where the basement is not considered a conditioned space, either the basement wall or the
ceiling(s) separating the basement from conditioned space shall be insulated in accordance with Table
602.1. Where basement walls are required to be insulated, the required R-value shall be applied from the
top of the basement wall to a depth of 10 feet below grade or to the top of the basement floor, whichever is less.