Valdosta, Georgia holds the distinctive title of the “Azalea City”because of the numerous azaleas that provide mounds of beautiful blooms in the spring. Valdosta is one of just a few cities within the United States to be recognized by the Azalea Society of America as a “certified Azalea City”. One of the principal goals of this organization is to promote the appreciation of azaleas in public and private landscapes through recognition and certification of those municipalities that promote and display azaleas as an “Azalea City”.
One popular promotion is the Valdosta-Lowndes Azalea Festival held each spring. Last weekend was the 2010 Azalea Festival and though the weather was windy and a bit chilly, folks came from all over to enjoy the live music, a wide variety of foods, arts and crafts from around the country, kids activities, racing pigs and cloggers. The event was held in Drexel Park and though usually resplendent with blooming azaleas by this time of year, our beautiful “guest of honor” was not able to make an appearance due to inclement weather which resulted in delayed blooming. However, just over the past week I’ve noticed buds beginning to open and for the next few weeks you can enjoy a riot of color from our beautiful azaleas!
Few photos from the 2010 Valdosta-Lowndes Azalea Festival:

Trivia:
* In Chinese culture, the azalea is known as "thinking of home bush”
* Azaleas are called "the royalty of the garden"
* Azalea is the flower of the astrology symbol Sagittarius
Information/tips on the care of the azalea:
- Planting of the Azalea:
*First Rule in Care for Azaleas: Location, Location, Location: Planting azaleas in a spot cooled by partial shade, where the soil is acidic and well-drained, is a step in the right direction in the proper care for azaleas. Some varieties will tolerate full sun if sufficient water is provided.
*Shady Companion for Azaleas: Since azaleas prefer shade, choose a good shade tree to have growing near them. Will just any shade tree do? No! Azalea plants like acid soil and have shallow roots. A shade tree compatible with them will not mind acid soil and will not have shallow roots.
- Care of the Azalea:
*Mulch: Mulching is an essential part of proper care for azalea bushes. The roots of these shallow-rooted plants need the protection that mulch affords against extremes of heat and cold -- and against drying out. Remember, the fact that these plants like a well-drained soil doesn't mean they like to be dry. Azaleas are not desert plants; they like water. They just don't like to be sitting in it for long periods of time, which would cause their roots to rot. The best mulches for azaleas are acidic mulches, such as pine straw.
- Pruning Azaleas:
Pruning azaleas should be undertaken immediately after they finish blooming. Pruning azaleas later than that risks interfering with the development of next year's buds. Begin by pruning off dead or injured branches, which could cause disease and insect problems in the future. Then prune back tall, gangly limbs shooting out of the top of the bush. Please don’t shape an azalea bush into a “square”! The azalea bush is “softly rounded”, and following the initial trimming after bloom, only requires a minimal “snipping” of long shoots to maintain.
- Azalea Disease/Problems:
Azaleas are generally healthy plants when their basic cultural requirements are met. However, they are subject to a number of problems caused by infectious agents, insect pests, weather and nutrition deficiencies. An excellent site that addresses a few common problems and their control measures can be viewed at http://www.azaleas.org/azdiagnose.html.
Warning: Horticultural chemicals tend to work because they are harmful. If you use these measures, follow their label safety precautions such as gloves and other protective measures to avoid personal harm, and follow their label rates of dilution and application to avoid harm to the plants and environment.
I receive quite a few requests from clients who have purchased homes regarding how to get the first-time home buyer tax credit. The following information is provided by the National Association of Realtors and is an excellent source for information on this timely question.
How to Get the First-Time Home Buyer Tax Credit
You've decided to purchase a home and take advantage of the 2009 First-Time Home Buyer Tax Credit. Here's what you have to do to get your benefit:
Deciding When to Apply the Credit
If you want the benefits of your credit as soon as possible:
You might choose to file under your 2008 tax year. Since April 15 has already passed, you would have to file an amendment to your return. However, if you've already filed for an extension of your 2008 return, then you can simply claim the credit when you submit your return.
If you anticipate a drop in income next year:
You can wait to claim the credit as part of your 2009 filing. In some cases the value of the credit might be higher, particularly if in 2008 you qualify for only a partial credit because your income is over $75,000 (single) or $150,000 (joint).
Your Next Steps
Once you have determined which year to apply the tax credit, you will need to do two things to claim the credit:
This information provided by the National Association of Realtors.
Springtime in Valdosta hasn't quite arrived, though I consider it here (unofficially) because it's time for the "cutting of the crapes"...or as my son (moaning and groaning) declares, "it's time for us to move". (His future home involves a sailboat so he can avoid any and all landscape maintenance demands).
There are many differing views on the correct way to prune crape myrtle trees. Some over-prune - chopping back crape myrtles below the knuckles (referred to as "crape murder" by my Broker). When a crape myrtle is pruned back too far it has two effects: 1) Reduces the number of blooms that will be produced during the coming summer, and 2) new branches will grow too long and not be able to support the weight of heavy blooms, especially when wet. To properly prune a crape myrtle note Figure A and Figure B below. Using this method of pruning you will be promoting the growth of twice as many branches - with twice as many blooms! The rule of thumb is to go down from the top of a stem to where that stem meets a branch. Using a pair of bypass or lopper pruners make a cut above 6 inches or so above the intersection (never below). Repeat this process until you've achieved a properly pruned tree as shown in Figure C. You also need to prune all horizontal growth along all main branches. If "suckers" have grown from the base of the trunk, prune these away too.
Pruning crape myrtles is labor intensive...but the reward is a beautiful tree that blooms well into the hottest months here in south Georgia.

Figure A


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