Dan Shapiro

Mendy's Kosher Deli

61 east 34 street

New York, NY

212 576 1010

I haven't been to Mendy's on 34 Street in a while. They have redecorated and updated and the results were interesting.

The food is still very good, if anything better. There is now a salad bar and the front counter still makes sandwiches that must be handled with two hands. They still have the best kosher deli especially corned beef in town. It is lean without being dry and crumbly. The only complaint was the kasha knishes had mashed potatoes mixed with the kasha. The potato makes them easier to eat, but dilutes the special gritty taste of the kasha

But something is gone and I can't quite put my finger on it. If pushed, I would say it's the heimshe or home style feeling. Gone are the male waiters, who had an opinion on everything. Instead young orthodox women, extremely modestly dressed, covered from ankle to neckline, whom seem to be afraid to talk to you, are the new wait staff. Perhaps, it's the general trend in orthodox Jewish circles to become stricter and even more observant. This holier than thou attitude has replaced warmth with elitism and narrow mindedness.

I know you can't eat atmosphere, but a smile does aid the digestion

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Mimis Hummus
1209 Cortelyou Rd
(between Westminster Rd & Argyle Rd)
Brooklyn, NY 11218
(718) 284-4444

There is somethimg delightful about Mimis Hummus. Although the food is good and there is enough variety among the middle eastern dishes for a vegetarian or a carnivore, There is something intangible, that shines through. The tangibles ( food) are good and inexpensive with main courses for under $ 15 and lots of salads and sides that can be upgraded to mains. Some of the combination salads are definitely worth tryiog for example I had a salad plate of roasted beets, white beans and hummus, which could have beeen a meal by itself It could be the intangibles (ambiance, helpful, friendly young ladfies eager to help or the new wave, music background, some of it original works), but there still something more In retrospect it was the combination of the food, ambiance and service --- that delightful balance and good karma, It rare when it come together, but when it does it can make your whole evening. Try Mimi's and see if you can feel the specialness of the place for more see

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Murano

207 West 36 Street

New York, NY 10018

(212) 695-5220

I love Italian food and I love American food. Murano seems to have confused the best of both.

Murano is quite clearly a business mans fancy lunch, a place were corporate high level gossip can be exchanged while the executives get thoroughly lubricated. Indeed Murano is not open on the weekends.

Italian food has wonderful distinct courses with its antipasti, pasta and secondi all with different tastes and textures. The antipasti is made to be eaten with bread. The pasta's shape is made to enhance the flavors of the sauce; for example Penne will always be linked with vodka sauce and fettuccini with creamy Alfredo sauce. The secondi's sometimes meat, sometimes fish are separate and distinct.

In American food, the courses are often combined, and the pasta or starch is served with the meat or fish, but they separate and usually un-sauced and easily identified.

But Murano serves Italian American food probably because American businessmen don't have the luxury of time their European counterparts have.

Murano's food has neither the grace of Italian food nor the straight forwardness of American food. Let me give you an example. I ordered fettuccini with salmon in vodka sauce. There was no Alfred available. I expected a filet of salmon with fettuccini on the side. Instead I got a mishmash of both; the filet of salmon was broken up and cooked with the pasta. The salmon was obviously the tasteless farm raised kind, and was made almost indistinct by the orange colored vodka sauce. I also ordered a cold mixed antipasti. Italian food has wonderful Capanata and Gardinera, but instead got olives and mushrooms straight out of a Costco giant jar.

A dinner of a salad, antipasti, two pastas and a shared dessert is approximately $ 100 and hardly worth it.

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Padre Figlio
310 east 44 street
NY, NY

There is something about Padre Figlio, which just tells you they know what they are doing. It starts with the hostess, who greets you by name even though you have never been there before and have not announced yourself. The Maitre D' proceeds to announce the voluminous specials of the day, including the ingredients and the method of preparation...just so.

We were not interested in just beef, I wanted to see what the chef can do and even this jaded New Yorker was impressed. Some of us started with a wonderful tricolor salad topped with slivers of Romano cheese. I had a pickled eggplant and mushroom mélange wrapped in radicchio with gobs of freshly made buffalo milk mozzarella, still warm and silky smooth. Ah...yes

Pasta is the reason for Italy's existence and my judgment is strict and unforgiving. I am not sure what they called my dish. It was a variation of Spaghetti Matricana. Home made spaghetti perfectly al dente, with pancetta (unsmoked bacon), onion, and garlic with slices of filet mignon in an excellent tomato sauce topped with ricotta. The serving was so large, I cancelled my next course. Also at the table was home made lobster ravioli with large chucks of lobster and a perfectly grilled mediterrain sea bass.

It's a rough life, but someone has to do it and I am volunteering for your share at Padre Figlio.

Dinner for four was $ 250 with a tip. But I noticed that they have a limited menu prix fixe dinner at $ 35. I am definitely going back to try it

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Cinco de Mayo Taqueria

1202 Cortelyou Road

Brooklyn, NY 11218

718 693 - 1022

There are now several good restaurants on Cortelyou Road., but perhaps the most underrated is Cinco de Mayo.

This Taqueria appears as a simple working mans formica counter top dinner, but some one in the kitchen knows what they are doing. Perhaps, the true test of a great cook is that they can produce a variety of dishes at the same time and have all of them taste very good and very distinctive.

Mexican sauces are acknowledged to be among the most complex in the world. A mole sauce containing chocolate can have over thirty ingredients. Pepian is a green sauce made from the seeds of a Calabasa Squash, Green and Red Salsas can take all day to get right .Adobo sauces with a vinegar base can destroy a meal if not made right, but a Tingua with onions can bring even boiled till dead chicken back to life. I have many dishes at Cinco de Mayo and each sauce has been amazingly good, consistent and distinct.

Open seven days from 9:00 a.m. to 10:p.m. Don't expect great service, but with great food comes prices that are almost embarrassingly cheap. Two main courses with a Guacamole appetizer and beers cost less than $ 40.00

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