Eric Middleton

Metal gutters comes in a variety of shapes such as rectangular, beveled, ogee, and semicircular. They also come in a number of sizes, from 2-1/2 inches to 6 inches in height and from 3-8 inches in width. Depending on the structure when it comes to installing gutters size does matter. This was evident on a commercial inspection I did recently. You cannot tell from the picture taken below on the left but these gutters are undersized, and the rain, ice and snow loads had begun to take its toll on them. These gutters are 5 inches in height and width. Because of the roof size large volumes of water enters into the gutters overwhelming them. As a result some areas were sagging (picture right) which prevents proper drainage.

Another problem with gutters that sag are leaks. If there is a walkway underneath, as is the case with this property, wet spots are created. If you look closely at the picture above on the right, where the gutter meets the elbow it sags and drips are occurring resulting in what you see at the bottom. The downspout is further down to the left of the elbow. The intent is that rain water will flow down around the elbow to the downspout, however it drains to the walkway below. When the temperature drops this wet area will freeze creating a slip hazard.

The downspout adapters created a problem as well, they too were undersized. If you look closely at the pictures you can see that the downspouts are too big for the black downspout adapters. The rain water is simply missing the dry well causing ground erosion and water seepage down the foundation wall. This resulted in mold growth on the interior wall and ceiling in the basement. The adapters for this installation should be 3x4 in size so that there is a tight fit to the downspout preventing water from spilling over onto the earth.

The owners actually read the report and acted on it. They had the gutters, downspouts, and adapters replaced with the proper size. In the next post we will take a look at the new and improved gutter system and see why size does matter.

Attic spaces are useful in a variety of ways. Some people use it for storage and some turn them into habitable living space. They are often used to run electrical wires, as well as duct work for A/C units. What I mostly find is some contractors and diyer's use them to hide their shoddy attic work. An example is an inspection I did in a condo, the attic was used as a venting space for the bathrooms and clothe dryer on the first and second level.

The picture below shows the bathroom vent just short of extending through the roof. Why cut the hole for the vent if its not going to be used? All the warm moist air from the bathroom can result in mold growth on the roof Sheathing and other wood supports. Also if some one walks on the roof, lets say for repairs and they step on the cut out area of the sheathing, it can result in a break or tear in the shingle resulting in a leak. This one venting problem turns into many. The picture on the right shows how the sheathing is cut too big for the vent pipe, not only that but its going through the shingle with no flashing on the roof!

The roof sheathing is also an area of concern. Spray form is used through out. The sad part is the owner paid to have this kind of work done. Look at the photo on the bottom right. The person who did this cut the sheathing too short and filled the void with spray foam. Even in this the job is shoddy. If you look closely at the pink insulation it's dark at the top. This indicates moisture from the gap or perhaps due to the bathroom and dryer venting in the attic creating fungal growth. And look at all the nails used in this one area - shoddy work.

Then I found more spray foam in a number of places going the length of the roof sheathing. What happened to tongue and groove?

When venting it's important to avoid sharp bends such as 90 degree bends. It can create puff back resulting in toxic fumes coming back into furnace and into the living space. The picture below shows two sharp bends that can result in problems for the heating unit and occupants.

The bad part about this too is that this condo is on the market in this condition. This is a classic example of what can hold up a sale. Having an inspection before you sell is a huge step in the right direction of avoiding delays.

What's in the attic? Your home inspector will spend a good amount of time there, because shoddy attic work can be costly.

Fire extinguishers can give a measure of safety in the work place and even in the home for those who have them. Inspecting them monthly is a must to ensure they work properly if needed. In the previous post I wrote that one of the first things when inspecting a fire extinguisher is identifying its location, and making sure it is easily accessible. The picture to the left is an example of a clearly visible and easily accessible extinguisher. Not knowing where one is when its needed can be costly even deadly because any delay could sadly result in loss of life and/or property.

How To Use Them

Knowing how to use an extinguisher is just as important as inspecting them. To keep it simple, remember the word PASS. Remembering this four letter word is the key to using the extinguisher safely and effectively.

• P- means pull the safety ring pin
• A- aim at the base of the fire. Aim the water or chemical at the bottom never at the top of the flames.
• S- squeeze the lever
• S- sweep side to side

Before doing the above, make sure you stand at a safe distance from the flames. Aiming at the base of the flames rather than at the top will likely smother the flames from the material that's burning.

Another tip is to be sure not to get trapped between the flames and a wall, or locked door. Remember, with portable extinguishers there's only a short period of time to fight a small fire. Depending on the size of the fire extinguisher, anywhere from 30-60 seconds is all there is. Also depending on what's burning, flames can spread quickly, so being aware of your position is very important. More important information can be found from the N.F.P.A. National Fire Protection Association. They can give more information on how to use a portable fire extinguisher.

Safety in the workplace and in the home is something everyone must be concerned with. Hiring an inspector for your home or business is a step in the right direction. Home inspectors with commercial qualifications will be on the look out for any safety issues as well as defects, and will be able to advise you on how to correct them.

Most commerical properties, big and small are equipped with portable fire extinguishers. They are usually located in several different places depending on the size of the structure. Some inspectors inspect them as part of a commercial inspection, carefully examining them for any visible damage,tampering, or prior use. Imagine you grab a fire extinguisher in an attempt to put out a small fire only to find that it is empty or damaged beyond use. Therefore fire extinguishers in the work place should be inspected monthly, and it's a good idea for everyone in the work place to know their location and how to effectively use them.

Inspecting Fire Extinguishers

All fire extinguishers in and around a property should be inspected to make sure they are in good working condition. After all there's only a small window of opportunity to put out or control a fire before it gets to big to handle. Here are some things to look for:

• Make sure they are in their designated place. They should be hung on an approved support on the wall and never on a cement floor. Cement floors especially in basements holds moisture that can cause the extinguisher to corrode.
• Accessible and visible. They should not be blocked with stored items
• Facing outward so that operation instructions and name plate can be read
• Seal and tamper indicators are not broken or missing
• Examine for physical damage, leakage, corrosion, and clogged nozzle
• Fully pressurized and pressure gauge reading is in the operable range or position
• Proper extinguisher provided for the hazard that is being protected

Classifications

Fire extinguishers come in different classifications, they are class A, B, C, and ABC multi- purpose dry chemical extinguishers. Knowing which ones to use is very important if your place of business has different types on hand.

Class A extinguishers are used for fires caused by combustible materials such as wood, paper, cloth, rubber, and some plastics. This is the most effective one to use as the water cools the fire.

Class B fire extinguishers are used for controlling fires caused by flammable petroleum products and other flammable liquids and greases.

Class C extinguishers are used for electrical equipment.

ABC types are used to extinguish class A, B, or C fires. Many commercial buildings only use this type because of its many uses. Be aware though that breathing in the chemicals from this type of extinguisher can have an adverse affect on the respiratory system.

It's important to become familiar with the type of fire extinguishers in the work place, and what's equally important is to learn how to effectively use them. In a future post we will look at how to best use them when needed.

Recently I got a phone call from a client that I did an inspection for in September. Highly upset he stated that he and his family just moved in their house and cannot use the water from the sinks and bathtub. "My water is brown and has a low flow." As I was looking up his report he continued saying his plumber ran water from the water heater and this is what the inspector should have done, if he did he would have caught this. The problem is you need a new water heater. Convinced that I gave him a faulty inspection, he demanded that I pay for a new water heater.

Read Your Inspection Report

Going over the report with him, I asked him to read the plumbing section carefully. It boldly and clearly states: Note that the inspector does not operate water supply or shut-off valves due to the possibility of valves leaking or breaking when operated. This includes water heaters and toilets. Because these valves are not used daily, operating them could cause damage that inspectors are not prepared to repair.

Take a look At The Picture

I asked him to look closely at the picture taken. As anyone can plainly see the water is clear, no rust and there is a good water flow. In addition to this, there was plenty of hot water, which as stated in the report was around 115 degrees. Also he was with me during the entire inspection and there were no water issues.

With the rage in his voice significantly reduced he asked, "why is the water brown and my flow is so low?" That's a very good question. I called the Realtor and he told me what I suspected was the problem. The day after the inspection the town turn off all the utilities. They were turned on after the buyer put them in his name, three months later. The low flow was the result of clogged aerators (pictured on the bottom) that needed to be cleaned from rust deposits. Whenever the water supply is turned off from the street side, rust can build up in the system. Running the water for several minutes and draining the water heater often will clear it up.

In every report I recommend as part of the maintenance plan, the water tank should be drained regularly to remove sediment and rust. Doing this can add service life to the water heater. The plumber tried to take advantage of a situation, he blamed the inspector simply to get work for himself.

Contractors and other professionals are not home inspectors. They do not know the scope or the limitations of what we inspect. Often they are the reasons buyers especially should have a home inspection. The next time a contractor or other professional says ' your inspector should have caught this' ask him if he is a licensed home inspector. At any rate, talk with your inspector first should problems arise, because things are not always what they appear to be!