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John M. Acaron, BSME, CHI, CMI

What is a Professional Home Inspection?

An inspection is essentially a "visual snapshot" of a home's condition as it exists at the time and date of the inspection, and that condition is described in a comprehensive written report.

An inspector will check the roof, heating system, water heater, air-conditioning system, structure, plumbing, electrical, and many other aspects of buildings looking for improper building practices, those items that require extensive repairs, items that are general maintenance issues, as well as fire, safety, and health hazards. Think of a home inspector as a detective searching throughout the house for clues that lead to a conclusion of the home's overall condition.

An inspection consists of a non-invasive physical examination of a home's systems, structures and components intended to identify material defects that exist at the time of the inspection. The heating and cooling equipment is activated along with operating plumbing fixtures, testing accessible electrical outlets and fixtures, and operating a representative sampling of doors and windows. A visual inspection of the roof, crawl spaces, walls and drainage adjacent to the home are included.

An inspection is NOT any of the following:

  • not a code inspection,
  • not an FHA/VA inspection
  • not an appraisal,
  • not a pest control certification,
  • not a warranty
  • and not an insurance policy

A home cannot "fail" an inspection, as there is no score or passing grade given. A professional home inspection is an examination of the current condition of a house. It is not an appraisal. It is not a municipal inspection, which verifies local building code code compliance. A home inspector, therefore, will not pass or fail a house, but rather describe its physical condition and indicate what components and systems may need a major or minor repair or replacement.

A home inspection is often referred to as an "engineering report", although many home inspectors are not licensed professional engineers. The essential difference between a home inspector and a professional engineer is that the professional engineer can offer opinions based upon engineering judgment and can design specifications for repair or reinforcement of a structural deficiency, although engineering design is typically outside the scope and fee structure of a standard home inspection. Either way, anyone entering the home inspection field should be trained in the unique discipline of home inspection. Assuming that the home inspector or licensed engineer has been properly trained and has sufficient experience, either person should be able to provide a satisfactory, detailed inspection of a property.

We are experienced, seasoned professionals (Degree Engineers) and Certified Professional Home Inspectors who have examined over thousand of properties (Residential & Commercial) for prospective buyers and sellers in our local area. We are a local "INDEPENDENT" Professional Home Inspection & Environmental (Mold testing) company working just for you and your best interest before the investment is finalized.

HOMEINSPECTORUSA staff are certified Home, Commercial & Environmental (Mold & Allergens) Inspector's (IAC2, ESA, EMSL, IAQA, InterNACHI & ProLab). We at HOMEINSPECTORUSA, we're committed to providing the highest level of professional service in the home inspection industry at competitive rates. HOMEINSPECTORUSA programs conform to state, EPA, VA, HUD, InterNACHI and FHA standards. HOMEINSPECTORUSA is the premier home inspection and mold inspection company in our area.

For more information relative to our services please visit: HOMEINSPECTORUSA

Inspected Once, Inspected Right! Anyone Else, is Just Looking Around!

How many times we have had this coversation with many of our fellow REALTOR's? I will say countless....The fact of the matter is that a Home Inspector must spend the necesary time to uncover all the deficiencies that might exist in the house he is inspecting. Understanding, that is just a visual inspection and you can only do so much on the date and time of the field work. But, you should have the correct type of tools to make a sound judment regarding the condition of the house. We at HOMEINSPECTORUSA we tell it how it is! Regarless wether the house sells or not. Selling the house is NOT our job.

Inspected Once, Inspected Right! Anyone Else, is Just Looking Around!

Enjoy this cartoon, this is a typical scenario experianced time and time again.....

For more information please visit: HOMEINSPECTROUSA

Burglar-Resistant Homes

There are a number of measures that homeowners can take to ensure that their homes are not attractive to burglars. If clients are concerned about break-ins, inspectors can pass on to them basic strategies for burglar-proofing their homes.

Some interesting statistics concerning break-ins in the United States:

  • Theft makes up more than three-quarters of all reported crime.
  • In 2005, law enforcement agencies reported more than 2 million burglary offenses.

According to a survey, burglars enter homes through the following locations:

  • 81 percent enter through the first floor;
  • 34 percent of burglars enter through the front door;
  • 23 percent enter through a first-floor window;
  • 22 percent enter through the back door
  • 9 percent enter through the garage;
  • 4 percent enter through the basement;
  • 4 percent enter through an unlocked entrance;
  • 2 percent enter through a storage area; and
  • 2 percent enter anywhere on the second floor.

Some interesting statistics (2002) concerning break-ins in Canada.

  • The burglary rate in Canada (877 per 100,000 people) is seven times higher than that of the country with the fewest break-ins, Norway.
  • The burglary rate in Canada is slightly higher than that of the United States (746 per 100,000 people) but significantly less than the burglary rate in Australia (2275 per 100,000 people).

Exterior Doors

  • Doors should be made of steel or solid-core wood construction. Hollow-core wood doors are more easily broken than heavy, solid-core doors.

  • Doors should be free of signs of rot, cracks and warping.

  • Doors should be protected by quality deadbolt locks. Chain locks are not adequate substitutes for deadbolt locks, although chain locks may be used as additional protection.

  • If a mail slot is present, it should be equipped with a cage or box. Mailslots that are not equipped with cages or boxes have been used by burglers to enter homes. Burglars can insert a contraption made of wire and cord into the mail slot and use it to open the lock from the inside, if no box or cage is present.

  • If a door is equipped with glass panes, they should be installed far from the lock. Otherwise, burglars can smash the glass and reach through the door to unlock the door.

  • Spare keys should not be hidden in obvious locations. Burglars are very good at finding keys that homeowners believe are cleverly hidden. The best place for a spare key is in the house of a trusted neighbor. If keys must be hidden near the door, they should not be placed in obvious locations, such as under a doormat, rock or planter.

  • A peephole can be installed in doors so homeowners can see who is on their doorstep before they open the door.

  • Clients should consider installing bump-resistant locks on their doors. "Bumping" is a technique developed recently that can open almost any standard lock with less effort than is required by lock-picking. This technique uses "bump keys," which are normal keys with slight modifications. Lock companies such as Schlage Primus and Medeco manufacture a number of locks that offer some bump-resistance.



Pet Doors

  • Pet doors can be used by burglars to enter homes. Some burglars have reached through pet doors in order to unlock the door. It is advisable to not have a pet door, but if one is necessary, it should be as small as possible and installed far from the lock.

  • A crafty burglar may convince or coerce a small child to crawl through a pet door and unlock the door. Also, some burglars are children.

  • Electronic pet doors are available that open only when the pet, equipped with a signaling device in their collar, approaches the door. These doors are designed to keep stray animals out of the home, and may provide protection against burglars, as well.

Sliding Glass Doors

  • They should be equipped with locks on their tops and bottoms.

  • They should not be able to be lifted from their frames.

  • A cut-off broom handle, or a similar device, can be laid into the door track to prevent it from being opened.

Illumination

  • Lights should be installed on the exterior of all four sides of the house. Burglars prefer darkness so they cannot be seen by neighbors or passersby.

  • When building occupants are not home, a few lights should be left on.

  • It is helpful to install exterior lights that are activated by motion sensors. Burglars that are suddenly illuminated may flee.

Windows

  • All windows should be composed of strong glass, such as laminated glass, and be in good operating order.
  • They can be installed with bars, grilles, grates or heavy-duty wire screening. Barred windows must be equipped with a quick-release mechanism so occupants can quickly escape during a fire.
  • Windows should not be hidden from from by landscaping or structures. If landscaping or structures cannot be moved, lighting can be installed around the windows.

Landscape and Yard

  • Shrubs and trees should not obscure the view of entrances. Shielded entrances can provide cover for burglars while they attempt to enter the residence.

  • Fences are helpful burglar deterrents, although they should not be difficult to see through.


While the house is vacant:

  • A loud radio can be used to make burglars think someone is home. Timers can be used to activate radios and lights to make the home seem occupied.
  • A car should always be parked in the driveway. A neighbor's car can be parked there so that it appears as if someone is home.

  • The lawn should be cut regularly. Uncut grass is a clue that no one is home.

Other tips:

  • Dogs are excellent burglar deterrants. For clients who cannot own dogs, they can place "beware of dog" signs around the yard for nearly the same effect.
  • If no security system is installed, the client can post security alarm stickers around the yard.


In summary, there are a number of tactics that inspectors can pass on to their clients that will help safeguard their homes from break-ins.

For more informatiion please visit: HOMEINSPECOTRUSA

Chinese Drywall

Amidst a wave of Chinese import scares, ranging from toxic toys to tainted pet food, reports of contaminated drywall from that country have been popping up across the American Southeast. Chinese companies use unrefined "fly ash," a coal residue found in smokestacks in coal-fired power plants in their manufacturing process. Fly ash contains strontium sulfide, a toxic substance commonly found in fireworks. In hot and wet environments, this substance can offgas into hydrogen sulfide, carbon disulfide, and carbonyl sulfide and contaminate a home's air supply.
The bulk of these incidents have been reported in Florida and other southern states, likely due to the high levels of heat and humidity in that region. Most of the affected homes were built during the housing boom between 2004 and 2007, especially in the wake of Hurricane Katrina when domestic building materials were in short supply. An estimated 250,000 tons of drywall were imported from China during that time period because it was cheap and plentiful. This material was used in the construction of approximately 100,000 homes in the United States, and many believe this has lead to serious health and property damage.

Although not believed to be life- threatening, exposure to high levels of airborne hydrogen sulfide and other sulfur compounds from contaminated drywall can result in the following physical ailments:

  • sore throat;
  • sinus irritation;
  • coughing;
  • wheezing;
  • headache;
  • dry or burning eyes; and/or
  • respiratory infections.

Due to this problem's recent nature, there are currently no government or industry standards for inspecting contaminated drywall in homes. Professionals who have handled contaminated drywall in the past may know how to inspect for sulfur compounds but there are no agencies that offer certification in this form of inspection. Homeowners should beware of con artists attempting to make quick money off of this widespread scare by claiming to be licensed or certified drywall inspectors. An inspector can use the following tips to identify if a home's drywall is contaminated:

  • The house has a strong sulfur smell reminiscent of rotten eggs.
  • Exposed copper wiring appears dark and corroded. Silver jewelry and silverware can become similarly corroded and discolored after several months of exposure.
  • A manufacturer's label on the back of the drywall can be used to link it with manufacturers that are known to have used contaminated materials. One way to look for this is to enter the attic and remove some of the insulation.
  • Drywall samples can be sent to a lab to be tested for dangerous levels of sulfur. This is the best testing method but also the most expensive.

Contaminated Chinese drywall cannot be repaired. Affected homeowners are being forced to either suffer bad health and failing appliances due to wire corrosion or replace the drywall entirely, a procedure which can cost tens of thousands of dollars. This contamination further reduces home values in a real estate environment already plagued by crisis. Some insurance companies are refusing to pay for drywall replacement and many of their clients are facing financial ruin. Class-action lawsuits have been filed against homebuilders, suppliers, and importers of contaminated Chinese drywall. Some large manufacturers named in these lawsuits are Knauf Plasterboard Tianjin, Knauf Gips, and Taishan Gypsum. The Florida Department of Health recently tested drywall from three Chinese manufacturers and a domestic sample and published their findings. They found "a distinct difference in drywall that was manufactured in the United States and those that were manufactured in China." The Chinese samples contained traces of strontium sulfide and emitted a sulfur odor when exposed to moisture and intense heat, while the American sample did not. The U.S. Consumer Safety Commission is currently performing similar tests. Other tests performed by Lennar, a builder that used Chinese drywall in 80 Florida homes, and Knauf Plasterboard, a manufacturer of the drywall, came to different conclusions than the Florida Department of Health. Both found safe levels of sulfur compounds in the samples that they tested. There is currently no scientific proof that Chinese drywall is responsible for the allegations against it. Regardless of its source, contamination of some sort is damaging property and health in the southern U.S. The media, who have publicized the issue, almost unanimously report that the blame lies with imported Chinese drywall that contains corrosive sulfur compounds originating from ash produced by Chinese coal-fired power plants. Homes affected by this contamination can suffer serious damage to the metal parts of appliances and piping and lead, potentially leading to considerable health issues. While no governing body has issued regulations regarding contaminated drywall, it is advisable that home inspectors be aware of the danger it poses and learn how to identify it.

For more insformation please vist HOMEINSPECTORUSA

Be prepare for a Home Inspection

No home is perfect. Anything from major damage to minor maintenance issues are often found. Even new homes are not immune - they could have problems with the plumbing, electrical system, heating and cooling system, or the roofing system just to name a few.

For buyers, a Home Inspection vital to uncovering issues a home may have but are invisible to the untrained eye. Even if the home inspection finds more problems than you're comfortable with and you move on to a different home to start the process all over again, it is money well spent.

A Home inspection will give you the opportunity to ask the seller to make the repairs found during the home inspection before you buy, or to back out of the contract. So be sure to ask for the "inspection contingency" when you begin to enter negotiations with the seller. This allows you to set a limit on the cost of repairs to the home. If the Home Inspector estimates that repairs will cost more than the limit, the contract is voided. It is a good way to protect yourself from ending up with a home that requires repairs that you are unable or unwilling to pay for.

Before the home inspector arrives, there are a few things you should know. There are no federal regulations governing home inspectors. The laws are going to differ state by state. Therefore it's important to interview your home inspector or Inspection Company prior to hiring them. Since each state is going to have their own standards of certification for inspectors - and some don't even have any - credibility is a big issue in choosing the right home inspector. Ask what certifications your inspector holds and what associations he or she belongs to.

Most associations such as the InterNational Association of Certified Home Inspectors (InterNACHI), American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI), and National Association of Home Inspectors, Inc. have membership requirements that include minimum levels of experience and training as well as codes of ethics. There are also several state-level associations that your inspector may be a member of. Ask your inspector and then visit the association's website.

Once your home inspector has arrived, it is recommended that you accompany him or her on the inspection of the property. This is so you can become familiar with the home and its systems as well as exactly what repairs the inspector recommends and why. You might also want to prepare a list of items that you've seen in the home that you feel are cause for concern as well as any questions you may have. The inspection is a great time to find out where the home's water and gas shutoffs are and where the main shut off for the electricity is.

Here are some other suggestions for homeowners:

Accessibility:
Make sure that all areas of the home are accessible, especially to the attic and crawl space. It's also a good idea to trim any trees and shrubs that may make an inspection of the exterior of the property difficult.

Housekeeping:
The inspector may photograph your home for the inspection report, so clearing the clutter and moving vehicles from the front of the home will help the inspection go smoother.

Maintenance:
Repair minor things like leaky faucets, missing door handles and tri
m.

For more informarmation relative to this topic visit: HOMEINSPECTORUSA