John Harrison, CPI

I came across an interesting post today.
It was titled
What Home Inspectors Don't Do
By Tim Obrien

In this article it is asserted that a home inspector will not do the following:

• Inspect any system or structural element that is not readily accessible.
• Offer professional services beyond the inspection itself
• Evaluate the strength, adequacy, effectiveness, or efficiency of any system of component
• Conduct specialized inspections.
• Estimate the cost of operating any of the property systems
• Evaluate anything that's not installed
• Evaluate structures that aren't attached to the home
• Inspect common areas of Condos or Co-Op

How about we change this article to What Home Inspectors Should not do.

First and formost when searching to hire a qualified home inspector you need to identify which association or organization the inspector or their company are part of. There are many different inspection associations out there and each of them has a Standards of Practice that the inspector needs to adhere by to maintain his status in the association.
This is no different than your Realtor, Doctor, Lawyer, or other professional following thier associations approved Standards of Practice.
Now let's take a moment to identify the points made up above.

Do not inspect areas that are not readily accessible.
If the area is not readily accessible then it possibly also is not very safe for the inspector to access, or would require moving some items around to gain access to. A home owner would not be very happy if some of thier items accidently got broken because an inspector is moving stuff around to gain access to areas. A simple way to correct this issue is make sure all areas are accessible before the inspector arrives.

Offer professional services beyond the inspection itself.
Some of the examples given in the article included but were not limited to: Septic System, Mold, Radon, Lead, Chimney. Many inspectors do offer what are refered to as Ancillary services. These services are typically an add on to the initial home inspection. Federal and State laws will dictate as to wether an inspector needs to be licensed or certified before they can offer each of these services.

Evaluate the strength, adequacy, effectiveness, or efficiency of any system of component.
We must remember that a home inspector is a generalist. This means that they are not experts in every area of the structure. A home inspector is specifically educated to be able to properly identify the component and wether or not it is functioning as designed. A home inspection is designed to give the client a comprehensive look at the condition of a structure to be able to make an educated buying decision.

Conduct specialized inspections.
This leads back to the previous comment about offering professional services beyond the inspection. While you will be able to find some home inspectors that will offer to inspect specific parts of your home. Plumbing inspection, Roofing inspection, Chimney inspection. A detailed inspection of a specific component is probably best left to a licensed certified professional, or an inspector that is adequately versed in that specific area. Each of these professions spend countless hours honing thier craft and keeping updated on the specifics of thier industry. For a home inspector to be 100% on each of these would mean several lifetimes of education and study.

Estimate the cost of operating any of the property systems
A home inspector is not a fortune teller we can not adequatly predict how much money each year it will take to run your AC or Heat, neither can a certified HVAC technitian.

Evaluate anything that's not installed
This one to a home inspector is just common sense. Say you have a empty property inspected that has window air units. The inspector checks them and says they are working fine. Sometime after the inspection the property owner decides he wants the window units and replaces them with different ones that do not work as well. Now the inspector said they work fine, the client wants to know why they don't, and the seller is keeping quiet. A home inspection is a snapshot in time of the stucture as it was at the time of inspection.

Evaluate structures that aren't attached to the home
If a structure is not attached to the home then it is not part of the home inspection. Inspectors will offer to inspect these additional structures for an additional fee. Many times these structures have their own electrical supply and or pumbing that is seperate from the main structure and needs to be evaluated as its own stand alone system.

Inspect common areas of Condos or Co-Op
Common area should be part of the condo associations responsibility. You can ask your inspector if they will review with the association any known issues with the common areas of the structure, and the association should have that information readily available to the potential buyer as part of a disclosure of the property. A buyer has no specific athority over the condition of common areas of a condo or Co-Op and having an inspector evaluate these areas brings very little results in the end.

While we consitantly see articles such as this point out all the things that home inspectors supposedly do not do, keep in mind that a home inspector has a valued purpose and is a generalist.

I like to think of a home inspector as a General Phyiscian. Your general Physician can help to identify that there is a problem with your eyes, but only a referal to Optomitrist can determine as to what level of sight loss you have.

John Harrison
Harrison Home Inspection LLC

15 Tools That Every Homeowner Should Own

By Nick Gromicko and Rob London

The following items are essential tools but this list is by no means exhaustive. Feel free to ask an InterNACHI inspector during your next inspection about other tools that you might find useful.

1. Plunger

A clogged sink or toilet is one of the most disturbing problems that you will face. With a plunger on hand, however, you can usually remedy these troubling plumbing issues relatively quickly. It is best to have two plungers -- one for the sink and one for the toilet.

2. Combination Wrench Set

One end of a combination wrench set is open and the other end is a closed loop. Nuts and bolts are manufactured in standard and metric sizes and because both varieties are widely used, so you'll need both sets of wrenches. For the most control and leverage, always pull the wrench toward you, instead of pushing on it. Also, avoid over-tightening.

3. Slip-Joint Pliers

Use slip-joint pliers to grab hold of a nail, a nut, a bolt, and much more. These types of pliers are versatile because of the jaws, which feature both flat and curved areas for gripping many types of objects. There is also a built-in slip-joint, which allows the user to quickly adjust the jaw size to suit most tasks.

4. Adjustable Wrench

Adjustable wrenches are somewhat awkward to use and can damage a bolt or nut if they are not handled properly. However, adjustable wrenches are ideal for situations where you need two wrenches of the same size. Screw the jaws all the way closed to avoid damaging the bolt or nut.

5. Caulking Gun

Caulking is the process of sealing up cracks and gaps in various structures and certain types of piping. Caulking can provide noise mitigation and thermal insulation, and control water penetration. Caulk should be applied only to areas that are clean and dry.

6. Flashlight

None of the tools in this list is of any use if you cannot visually inspect the situation. The problem, and solution, are apparent only with a good flashlight. A traditional two-battery flashlight is usually sufficient, as larger flashlights may be too unwieldy.

7. Tape Measure

Measuring house projects requires a tape measure, not a ruler or a yardstick. Tape measures come in many lengths, although 25 feet is best. Measure everything at least twice to ensure accuracy.

8. Hacksaw
These are great for cutting metal objects such as pipes, bolts and brackets. Hacksaws look thin and flimsy, but they'll easily cut through even the hardest of metals. Blades are replaceable, so focus your purchase on a quality hacksaw frame.

9. Torpedo Level
Only a level can be used to determine if something, such as a shelf, appliance or picture, is correctly oriented. The torpedo-style level is unique because it not only shows when an object is perfectly horizontal or vertical, but it also has a gauge that shows when an object is at a 45-degree angle. The bubble in viewfinder must be exactly in the middle, not merely close.

10. Safety Glasses / Goggles
For all tasks involving a hammer or a power tool, you should always wear safety glasses or goggles. They should also be worn while you mix chemicals.

11. Claw Hammer
A good hammer is one of the most important tools you can own. Use it to drive and remove nails, to pry wood loose from the house, and in combination with other tools. They come in a variety of sizes, although a 16-ounce hammer is the best all-purpose choice.

12. Screwdriver Set
It is best to have four screwdrivers: a small and large version of both a flat-head and a Phillips- head screwdriver. Electrical screwdrivers are sometimes convenient, but they're no substitute. Manual screwdrivers can reach into more places and they are less likely to damage the screw.

13. Wire Cutters

Wire cutters are pliers designed to cut wires and small nails. The "side-cutting" (unlike the stronger "end-cutting" style) style is handy, but not strong enough to cut small nails.

14. Respirator / Safety Mask
While paints and other coatings have become less toxic (and lead-free) over time, most still contain dangerous chemicals, which is why you should wear a mask to avoid accidentally getting them in your lungs. A mask should also be worn when working in dusty or dirty environments. Disposable masks usually come in packs of 10 and should be thrown away after use. Full and half-face respirators can be used to prevent the inhalation of very fine particles that ordinary facemasks will not not stop.

15. Duct Tape

This tape is extremely strong and adaptable. Originally, it was widely used to make temporary repairs to many types of military equipment. Today, it's one of the key items specified for home emergency kits because it is water-resistant and extremely sticky.

In summary, the above is a list of tools that every homeowner should have.

International Association of Certified Home Inspectors ¿ www.NACHI.org

Provided by Harrison Home Inspection LLC

John Harrison

712-326-4320

jharrison@ia.nachi.org

www.bluffshomeinspection.com

Bat Infestation

By Nick Gromicko, Rob London and Kenton Shepard

Bats are nocturnal mammals found in most inhabited places throughout the world. Bat infestation in homes, especially in attics, can be a health hazard, as well as a nuisance, for homeowners.

Interesting facts about bats:

• Due to its high levels of phosphorous and nitrogen, guano (bat feces) is an effective fertilizer and gunpowder ingredient. Guano has been such a critical resource that in 1879, a war between Chile and Bolivia, called the Guano War, was waged over rights to the guano-rich western coastline.
• Despite how large they appear in flight, bats are remarkably small. Some can fit through openings smaller than ½-inch wide. Even the largest bat - the golden-crowned flying-fox -- with a wingspan of up to 5 feet, may weigh as little as 3 pounds.
• Roughly 20% of all known mammal species are species of bats.
• Bats are the only mammals capable of sustained flight.
• Contrary to popular belief, bats are neither rodents nor birds, and they are not blind.

Indications of a household bat infestation:

• the accumulation of guano. Bat guano resembles rodent droppings but can be distinguished in several ways: guano tends to cluster as it piles up beneath the exit of the bats' roost; guano often has a shiny, speckled appearance due to the ingestion of insect wings; and guano can be easily crushed into smaller fragments, while rodent droppings will not. Of course, it is not safe to touch any animal droppings with unprotected hands;
• milky white urine stains on windows;
• stains around entry holes, such as cracks and crevices;
• mouse-like droppings under eaves and overhangs;
• stains and odors caused by urine and guano;
• noises such as squeaking, scratching and crawling in attics and walls shortly before dusk and dawn; and
• grease and dirt. Bats often leave smears of grease and dirt from their coats on the entry point to their roost.

Bats and Disease

Rabies

Due to their high mobility and social behavior, bats are often hosts for diseases, such as rabies. Rabies is perhaps the most serious disease transmitted by bats in North America. Most of the human rabies cases in the United States have been caused by the rabies virus from bats. Awareness of the facts about bats and rabies can help homeowners protect themselves, their families, and their pets.

Rabies is a virus that affects the nervous system of humans and other mammals. Once symptoms of the disease develop, it is almost always fatal. Humans contract rabies from animal bites. Some bats have teeth so sharp that a sleeping person may not realize that they have been bitten. It is recommended that those waking up with bats in the bedroom undergo a series of preventative (and sometimes painful and expensive) rabies inoculations. The alternative is to capture the bats (without being bitten) and take them to a laboratory for testing.

Indications that a bat has rabies:

•· The bat is in an unusual place, such as a bedroom or in the lawn. Healthy bats do not rest on the ground.

•· The bat is approachable. Healthy bats are scared of humans and will flee long before they can be approached.

•· The bat is active during the day.

•· The bat appears unable to fly.

For these reasons, rabid bats are often most likely to come into contact with humans.

Histoplasmosis

This respiratory disease, caused by the fungus Histoplasma capsulatum, is transmitted through the inhalation of fungal spores found in bat guano and bird droppings. Although generally not fatal, histoplasmosis can cause flu-like symptoms. For individuals with compromised immune systems, such as those with AIDS, histoplasmosis can be fatal.

Bat Removal

The following instructions for bat removal can be passed on from InterNACHI inspectors to their clients:

• The entry point for the bats should be identified. Holes as small a human thumb are large enough for some bats to squeeze through. The homeowner can seal off most of these holes with caulk, leaving one hole intact for resident bats to exit at night.
• The homeowner can then plug this hole at night so that bats cannot return to the house. Alternatively, the homeowner can install a one-way "check-valve" from wire mesh that will allow bats to exit the house but not allow them to return.
• "Bat houses," which can be constructed or purchased, can be placed next to the house during bat removal to provide bats with an attractive alternative to the house.

Note: Bat removal should not take place during the summer (in North America). Baby bats that are unable to fly will not be able to leave the house during the summer months and they will starve to death if adults are not permitted to enter the home. Bat removal during the summer is inhumane and will result in the additional problems posed by decomposing bat carcasses.

In summary, bats can transmit dangerous diseases to humans, and inspectors and homeowners should be wary of bat infestations.

International Association of Certified Home Inspectors ¿ www.NACHI.org

Provided by Harrison Home Inspection LLC

John Harrison

712-326-4320

jharrison@ia.nachi.org

www.bluffshomeinspection.com

by Nick Gromicko, Rob London and Kenton Shepard

Winterization is the process of preparing a home for the harsh conditions of winter. It is usually performed in the fall before snow and excessive cold have arrived. Winterization protects against damage due to bursting water pipes, and from heat loss due to openings in the building envelope. Inspectors should know how winterization works and be able to pass this information on to their clients

Plumbing System

Water damage caused by bursting pipes during cold weather can be devastating. A ruptured pipe will release water and not stop until someone shuts off the water. If no one is home to do this, an enormous quantity of water can flood a house and cause thousands of dollars' worth of damage. Even during very small ruptures or ruptures that are stopped quickly, water leakage can result in mold and property damage. Broken water pipes can be costly to repair.

• All exposed water pipes in cold areas, such as attics, garages, and crawlspaces, should be insulated. Foam or fiberglass insulation can be purchased at most hardware stores. Insulation should cover the entirety of a pipe.
• Plastic is more tolerant of cold expansion than copper or steel. Houses in colder climates might benefit from the exclusive use of approved plastic plumbing.
• Water supply for exterior pipes should be shut off from inside the house and then drained.
• Sprinkler systems are particularly vulnerable to cracking due to cold-weather expansion. In addition to turning them, it helps to purge the system of any remaining water with compressed air.
• Homeowners should be aware that much of the plumbing system travels through areas that are significantly colder than the rest of the house. Because it is impossible to monitor the temperature of every portion of the plumbing system, indoor air temperature should be kept high enough throughout the winter to keep pipes in any unheated places from freezing.

Leaks in the Building Envelope

Leaky window frames, door frames, and electrical outlets can allow warm air to escape into the outdoors.

• Windows that leak will allow cold air into the home. Feeling for drafts with a hand or watching for horizontal smoke from an incense stick are a few easy ways to inspect for leaks. They can be repaired with tape or caulk.
• On a breezy day, a homeowner can walk through the house and find far more leaks than they knew existed. Leaks are most likely in areas where a seam exists between two or more building materials.

Insulation

• Because hot air rises into the attic, a disproportionately larger amount of heat is lost there than in other parts of the house. Like a winter hat that keeps a head warm, adequate attic insulation will prevent warm indoor air from escaping. Attic insulation should be 12 inches thick in cold climates.
• Storm doors and windows should be installed to insulate the house and protect against bad weather.

Heating Systems

The heating system is used most during the winter so it's a good idea to make sure that it works before it's desperately needed. The following inspection and maintenance tips can be of some help to homeowners:

• Test the furnace by raising the temperature on the thermostat. If it does not respond to the adjustment quickly it might be broken.
• Replace the air filter if it's dirty.
• If the furnace is equipped with an oil or propane tank, the tank should be full.

Cooling Systems

• Use a hose to remove leaves and other debris from the outdoor condensing unit, if the home is equipped with one. Protect the unit with a breathable waterproof cover to prevent rusting and freezing of its components.
• Remove and store window air conditioners when they are no longer needed. Cold air can damage their components and enter the house through openings between the air conditioner and the windowpane.
• Ceiling fans can be reversed in order to warm air trapped beneath the ceiling to recirculate. A fan has been reversed if it spins clockwise.

Chimneys and Fireplaces

• The chimney should be inspected for nesting animals trying to escape the cold. Squirrels and raccoons have been known to enter chimneys for this reason.
• The damper should open and close with ease. Smoke should rise up the chimney when the damper is open. If it doesn't, this means that there is an obstruction in the chimney that must be cleared before the fireplace can be used.
• A chimney-cleaning service professional should clean the chimney if it has not been cleaned for several years.
• The damper should be closed when the fireplace is not in use. An open damper might not be as obvious to the homeowner as an open window, but it can allow a significant amount of warm air to escape.
• Glass doors can be installed in fireplaces and wood stoves to provide an extra layer of insulation.

Roofs

• If debris is left in gutters, it can get wet and freeze, permitting the formation of ice dams that prevent water from draining. This added weight has the potential to cause damage to gutters. Also, trapped water in the gutter can enter the house and lead to the growth of mold. For these reasons, leaves, pine needles, and all other debris must be cleared from gutters. This can be done by hand or with a hose.
• Missing shingles should be replaced.

Landscape

• Patio furniture should be covered.
• If there is a deck, it might need an extra coat of sealer.

Adequate winterization is especially crucial for homes that are left unoccupied during the winter. This sometimes happens when homeowners who own multiple properties leave one home vacant for months at a time while they occupy their summer homes. Foreclosed homes are sometimes left unoccupied, as well. The heat may be shut off in vacant homes in order to save money. Such homes must be winterized in order to prevent catastrophic building damage.

In addition to the information above, InterNACHI advises the following measures to prepare an unoccupied home for the winter:

• Winterize toilets by emptying them completely. Antifreeze can be poured into toilets and other plumbing fixtures.
• Winterize faucets by opening them and leaving them open.
• Water tanks and pumps need to be drained completely.
• Drain all water from indoor and outdoor plumbing.
• Unplug all non-essential electrical appliances, especially the refrigerator. If no electrical appliances are needed, electricity can be shut off at the main breaker.

In summary, home winterization is a collection of preventative measures designed to protect homes against damage caused by cold temperatures. These measures should be performed in the fall, before it gets cold enough for damage to occur. Indoor plumbing is probably the most critical area to consider when preparing a home for winter, although other systems should not be ignored.

International Association of Certified Home Inspectors ¿ http://www.nachi.org/

Provided by Harrison Home Inspection LLC

John Harrison

712-326-4320

jharrison@ia.nachi.org

www.bluffshomeinspection.com

Compost Pile Hazards

By Nick Gromicko and Rob London

Compost is an accumulation of degrading food scraps, plants and other nutrient-rich organic matter. It is an easy and environmentally responsible way to dispose of biodegradable kitchen waste, which can then be returned to the soil as fertilizer for vegetable and flower gardens.

Composting is Good

• Composting helps to reduce the volume of material in landfills.
• Compost is used to improve soil structure and provide nutrients for growing plants.

So, what's wrong with composting? The benefits of the practice are generally well-known, but few people are actually aware of the potential hazards and dangers composting can pose.

Diseases Contracted From Handling Compost

Compost can be a breeding ground for dangerous pathogens, some of which have killed or seriously harmed unsuspecting gardeners. Inspectors should familiarize themselves with these illnesses, some of which can be contracted in other parts of the house. Listed below are some of the more common physical ailments that can result from unprotected contact with compost:

• Aspergillosis is a fungal infection of the lungs that is caused after the inhalation of a fungus commonly found in rotting plant matter. While normally not life-threatening, aspergillosis can be extremely dangerous if enough spores are inhaled. The disease killed a 47-year-old British man after he was engulfed in clouds of dust from the compost he had intended to use in his garden.
• The symptoms of Farmer's Lung resemble pneumonia, and may result from respiratory exposure to certain fungal and bacterial pathogens present in rotting organic materials, such as mushrooms, hay and sugar cane. Beware of dusty white patches, as they are a sign that dangerous spores are present. Farmer's Lung can usually be treated with antibiotics.
• Histoplasmosis is caused by fungus that grows in guano and bird droppings. Healthy immune systems can usually fight off histoplasmosis, although infections can become serious if large amounts of the toxin are inhaled, or if the infected person has a weakened immune system.
• Legionnaire's Disease is a respiratory infection that's caused by the inhalation of L. Longbeachae.
• Paronychia is a local infection that occurs in the tissue around the fingernails and toenails. Prolonged moisture and the abrasive effects of soil can create openings in the skin that allow the infection to occur, producing pain and throbbing.
• Tetanus is a disease of the central nervous system that's caused by bacteria that is very common in soil. While even a minor cut can allow the bacteria to enter the bloodstream, immunizations against tetanus are quite common.

How to Avoid Potential Hazards of Composting

The following general safety precautions should be followed in order to avoid transmission of dangerous fungi, bacteria and other pathogens found in compost:

• Always wear dry, breathable gloves to avoid direct contact with the skin, and to protect yourself from injury while using gardening tools and implements.
• Wear protective footwear that covers your skin adequately to avoid direct contact with compost. Do not wear them anywhere except outdoors.
• When stirring and tilling the compost, which is required on a regular basis in order for it to process and break down, always wear a nose and mouth guard or dust mask to avoid inhaling the various spores that will become airborne during tilling and turning.
• Avoid tilling on windy days.
• Do not store compost in fully closed or airtight containers. Without any air, it can actually become combustible.
• Wash your hands after dealing with compost. While this suggestion may sound obvious, many garden enthusiasts get so absorbed with their activities that they forget the potential dangers from poisoning.
• If you develop a severe cough or infection of the skin (especially if there is an open sore or puncture wound), seek medical attention immediately. You may require antibiotics or a tetanus shot.

Compost Fires

Surprisingly, a great deal of heat is created by the microbial activity, which is occasionally enough to cause a fire. In August 2009, a compost pile spontaneously combusted at the Saginaw Compost Facility in Saginaw, Michigan. However, these fires are extremely rare, as they occur only under a limited set of circumstances that would ordinarily be avoided using common sense.

According to the Alberta, Canada's Department of Agriculture, the following key conditions must be met in order for a compost pile to light itself on fire:

• dry materials that go unattended;
• biological activity;
• dry pockets of debris among a non-uniform mix of materials;
• large, well-insulated piles;
• limited air flow;
• poor moisture distribution due to neglect or oversight in monitoring; and
• unknown temperature within the pile, and time for the temperature to build up.

WARNING: While self-incineration of compost is possible, compost piles probably catch fire more often from ordinary sources, such as lit cigarettes or electrical mishaps. Also, gardeners who use ash from incinerated trash or the fireplace sometimes neglect to make sure that the ash has cooled sufficiently before adding it to the compost pile.

Inspectors can offer their clients the following tips to help avoid compost fires:

• Assure adequate ventilation of the pile to release heat. Turn the pile or use a mechanical aeration system to ensure ventilation. Narrow, short piles generally have adequate ventilation.
• Do not turn a pile that is smoldering, as the sudden infusion of oxygen can cause the pile to erupt into flames.
• Do not let the pile get too dry. The University of Missouri states, "Organic material can ignite spontaneously due to biological activity at moisture contents between 26 to 46% moisture, if the temperature exceeds 200° F."
• Monitor the pile's temperature, focusing on the hottest spot in the pile. Use a thermometer long enough to reach the center of the pile. Do not let the pile get too hot. If the temperature of the pile exceeds 160° F, reduce the temperature through the following methods:
  • reduce the size of the pile;
  • add water to 55% moisture;
  • mix in coarse, bulky material, such as wood chips; and
  • do not pile compost next to buildings or any flammable structures, as fire can spread easily.

Compost-Friendly Pests

Worms are often added to compost piles to aid in the breakdown of organic matter. But if the compost piles are not constructed and maintained properly, they have the tendency to attract unwanted pests. Flies, termites and beetles are attracted to the smell of decay, and they, in turn, will attract larger predatory critters to the pile. Use the following pest-control tips:

• Do not compost eggs, meat, oils, bones, cheese or fats. Compost piles should be "vegetarian."
• Bury the compost with soil or leaves to contain the smell and to aid with the biodegrading process.
• If using a portable composter, make sure it has a cover that will discourage the entry of pests and animals.
• Beware that enclosed compost piles can overheat and create high levels of dangerous gasses, such as methane, so be sure to rotate the container or till the pile daily.
• Do not place compost near a building. In addition to the fire concerns, compost placed adjacent to buildings can promote infestation.

NOTE: These practices can also mitigate the foul smells that can plague compost piles.

In summary, the benefits of compost piles can be quickly eclipsed by health hazards and nuisances if they are not designed correctly and maintained properly

International Association of Certified Home Inspectors ¿ www.NACHI.org

Provided by Harrison Home Inspection LLC

John Harrison

712-326-4320

jharrison@ia.nachi.org

www.bluffshomeinspection.com