Steve Lightcap Jr.

According to the National Environmental Service Center (NESC) it is estimated that the average homeowner may have up to 100 pounds of various types of hazardous household waste products at any time in their home. This includes products that are flammable, combustible, toxic, explosive or corrosive. You are probably well aware of the hazards associated with the improper storage and use of certain products such as gasoline, anti-freeze, pesticides, and varnishes. But other common products such as nail polish remover, charcoal lighter fluid, and fluorescent light bulbs are also quite hazardous to humans, pets and the environment when used or disposed of improperly. One way to reduce the need to have these hazardous products around is to look for alternate cleaning solutions for everyday home maintenance needs. By reducing your reliance on the potentially hazardous products, you not only reduce the risk of injury to yourself or other family members, but also help the environment.

Two long-used and widely available products, baking soda and vinegar, are good alternatives for many household cleaning products. Baking soda, mixed with water or other products, depending on the particular need, can be used to remove perspiration stains, as a scouring powder to clean plumbing fixtures, and as a general household cleaner. Vinegar can serve as a water softener, pet odor remover, paintbrush softener, and window cleaner. Even baby oil can substitute for harsh chemicals to remove grease and tree sap. Club soda helps remove stains from carpets. Use baking soda with the right mix of vinegar and you can have a drain cleaner or tile scum remover.

The National Environmental Service Center has a technical assistance hotline (800-624-8301) available to answer questions. Environment Canada also provides information and offers solutions for the disposal of household hazardous waste. Even alternative products must be used and handled with care. Check with product manufacturers, green product websites, and or the NESC for specific recommendations and mixtures. And of course, as always, keep all cleaning supplies away from children.

Remember, these tips are only general guidelines. Since each situation is different, contact a professional if you have questions about a specific issue. More home safety and maintenance information is available online at lightcap.housemaster.com.

Most residential air conditioning systems are electric compressor-cycle systems. This type system includes the basic window or through-the-wall unit, as well as central (whole house) air conditioning systems. Central air conditioning systems are typically either packaged units, which have all major components in one housing (similar to a room-style unit), or split systems, which have a portion of the system in a cabinet outdoors and a blower and other components in an indoor air handler cabinet or within the basic cabinet of a furnace.

Regardless of the style of the system, the basic components and method of operation are similar for all electric compression-cycle systems. The major elements are an evaporator coil, a condenser coil, fans to circulate air over both coils, tubing to carry a refrigerant between the two coils, a compressor to move the refrigerant through the system, and a metering device to regulate the rate of refrigerant flow.

Air conditioning systems use several basic principles of physics to remove heat from within a house: (1) a refrigerant absorbs heat when it changes from a liquid to a gas; (2) a refrigerant releases heat when it changes from a gas to a liquid; and (3) heat moves from a medium at a high temperature to a medium at a lower temperature.

As the liquid refrigerant passes through an expansion device into the evaporator it expands to a gas. At the same time, it absorbs heat from the household air, which is forced by the air handler fan through the evaporator coil. As this heat transfer takes place, the temperature of the household air becomes noticeably cooler and is forced through air ducts to the rooms of the house. The refrigerant, which vaporizes into a gas in the evaporator, is pulled through the tubing into the compressor where it is compressed to a high-temperature, high-pressure gas. This gaseous refrigerant then passes into the condenser coil where it gives up heat to the relatively cooler outdoor air, which is forced across the coil by second fan. In the process, the refrigerant condenses back to a liquid and is ready to begin another cycle.

One other issue to consider is that an air conditioning system not only removes heat from the air, but it also dehumidifies the air. For comfort cooling, a balance of temperature and humidity must be maintained. This means that the unit must be sized properly so that it runs long enough to dehumidify the air before the thermostat temperature settings are satisfied. An oversized system in a hot, humid climate will not maintain the proper comfort level, as the air will be cooled before a reasonable humidity level is attained.

Adequate airflow is important for the proper operation of an air conditioning system. Dirty filters and blocked or improperly positioned air inlets (returns) and outlets (supply registers) will result in imbalanced air distribution and uneven cooling. At least one return needs to be positioned near the ceiling.

Central air conditioning systems do not require a burdensome amount of maintenance, but some basic attention is required if the unit's maximum economic life span is to be achieved. The first major element that may require replacement is usually the compressor. Unfortunately, it is also the most expensive component of the system. Manufactures typically provide five-year warranties on the original compressor, but with system maintenance most compressors will last well beyond that period.

An annual check and servicing of all central air conditioning systems by a qualified HVAC service company is recommended. In addition, to help attain the maximum comfort and trouble-free service life for their system, homeowners are also advised to following these maintenance and operation guidelines:

• Reset dampers for air conditioning at the start of the cooling season. A damper adjustment is required only if there are separate ducts for the cool air and if the return has both a ceiling and floor register.
• Check to make sure all supply outlets and returns are free from obstructions and dust.
• Clean and/or replace air filters monthly (in season). Service the electronic air cleaner if you have one.
• Check to make sure the condensate drain extending from the evaporator area is draining freely. If there is an overflow pan under the unit, as is the case in many attic installations, be sure the pan is clean and the condensate drain open. If your unit has a condensate pump, keep it clean and working.
• Find a comfortable setting above 78 degrees F and don't change it. Consider installing a programmable or set-back thermostat.
• Make sure all ducts that pass through hot areas such as attics, garages and crawlspaces are insulated.
• Minimize heat gain and hot air infiltration by providing adequate attic insulation and weather-stripping at windows and doors.
• Make sure there is adequate attic ventilation.
• Never operate a house air conditioning system when the outside temperature is below 60 degrees F.

Remember, these tips are only general guidelines. Since each situation is different, contact a professional if you have questions about a specific issue. More home safety and maintenance information is available online at lightcap.housemaster.com.

To avoid unexpected mishaps that could ruin an evening around the fireplace, observe some simple precautions.

• Clean fireplaces annually, preferably by a certified chimney sweep.
• Use safety screens and doors for wood-burning fireplaces.
• Before lighting any fire, check to see that flue damper is open.
• Only burn dry, seasoned wood. Green or wet wood will not burn cleanly, increasing the rate of creosote buildup.
• Do not burn wrapping papers or evergreens in the fireplace. These ignite suddenly and burn intensely, increasing risk of a flash fire.
• Use care with "fire salts," which produce colored flames when thrown on wood fires. Keep them away from children and avoid inhaling smoke from their flames.
• Do not leave the fire unattended, and make sure you have at least one working smoke/fire detector.

Maintenance costs need to be considered when purchasing a home. General estimates indicate that every home will require between 1 percent and 3 percent of the home’s value in annual maintenance costs, and this figure does not necessarily include major or emergency repairs.

Prevention Saves Time and Money
The ongoing maintenance of a home is a significant contributor to holding or increasing its value. Homeowners should plan a solid preventive maintenance schedule, so problems can be fixed before they become more costly and damaging.

There are many other benefits for current and potential homeowners when they incorporate preventive maintenance into their annual planning. Preventive maintenance:

• Avoids expensive emergency repairs: Contractor fees rise in proportion to the urgency and the hour of the service call.
• Saves money and aggravation: Repairs planned for completion during off-peak times are less expensive and stressful.
• Minimizes homeowner insurance premiums: Correcting deficiencies before they represent an insurance claim will keep premiums reasonable.
• Eliminates costly consequential damage: When major home components, like a roof, fail, the damage to home interiors and furnishings can be substantial.
• Homes in good condition sell at higher prices than neglected counterparts.

Create a Maintenance Checklist
Every house is different, but there are some common elements every homeowner can include on a regular maintenance list:

• Check the grading and drainage around the foundation
• Seal driveway and walkway cracks
• Check fencing and gates
• Check and trim trees near the house
• Check for deteriorating/damaged siding
• Check for loose, damaged, or missing roofing and flashings
• Clean all gutters and leaders
• Check weather-stripping and seals on all windows and doors
• Insulate water lines that are subject to freezing
• Check condition of the water heater
• Check ventilation openings for nests, blockage

While this list is not comprehensive, it’s a good start to identifying some potential trouble spots in any home.

Do Your Own Research
It’s important to learn as much about your particular home’s operations. Many Web sites and newsletters contain valuable information and tips, and housemaster.com® contains a wide array of resources for homeowners, homebuyers, and home sellers such as a Home Defect Survey, A Preventive Maintenance Checklist, Common Home Concerns Overview, and Home Inspector selection guidelines.

Even if you are not comfortable making repairs on your own, simply learning more about spotting potential problems can help reduce the extent and cost of contractor repairs. A home is a major investment and it should be monitored closely.

Remember, these tips are only general guidelines. Since each situation is different, contact a professional if you have questions about a specific issue. More home safety and maintenance information is available on my blogs.

Buyers and investors often look to foreclosure sales to find real estate bargains. But newcomers to this market could find some unpleasant surprises if they go in blind. All homes should be thoroughly inspected by a professional home inspector before sealing the deal.

Why inspect if you can’t negotiate?
Foreclosure homes are usually “as-is” sales. This means that buyers cannot negotiate for the cost of needed repairs, as they may do in a traditional home purchase. Buyers must absorb repair costs themselves and consider this in their purchase offer at auction. So why get a professional inspection on a foreclosure property?

Too many foreclosure buyers think they’re getting a deal when, in fact, they might be purchasing a property with substantial and costly defects. The repair of these major issues could exceed the savings gained in buying a foreclosed property.

Sellers at foreclosure auctions are not usually obligated to disclose defects. But buyers can empower themselves by getting a professional property inspection before the auction that will provide valuable insights about the condition of the home. If pre-auction property inspections are not permitted at the foreclosure sale, buyers will need to weigh that risk carefully.

Knowledge is Power
Even with a significant influx of newly foreclosed properties due to the sub prime mortgage mess, the foreclosure market can be competitive, and it is often dominated by experienced real estate investors. Armed with the right information you can make informed bids and find the best home at the best deal. After all, a bargain isn’t a bargain if it costs more than expected down the line.

Remember, buying foreclosed properties can be a risky business, so be certain to consult with needed professionals, including a reputable, certified home inspector, to address questions about specific issues. More homebuyer and home maintenance tips are available on my blog.