Steve Lightcap Jr.

Electrical Service Issues
The use of electric appliances and devices has increased substantially since the first homes were wired for electricity. For the typical size home, 100 amps is generally considered the minimum acceptable electric capacity. For large homes or homes occupied by the typically modern family making use of many of the electric devices now available, at least 150 ampere would be more appropriate. All electric homes generally require a 200 amp service. While a certain service size may have been adequate for a particular home in the past, any renovation work or the upgrading of major appliances may necessitate an increase in the capacity of the panel and/or household service.

The service lines which carry electric power from the utility company to a house can be buried or run overhead. Overhead lines must have adequate clearance over all points on the property and the house to avoid accidental contact (ladder, poles, etc.). Tree limbs and other vegetation must also be kept clear of the lines. A damaged service line or connection presents a potential hazard. The utility is usually responsible for maintenance to the point where the line connects to the house.

Electric Panels
The main panel is the connection point between the incoming service lines and the house wiring. It typically contains a service disconnect (the main shut-off), overload protection (circuit breakers or fuses), and associated conductors (wiring). All circuits in the panel should be clearly labeled so that a particular circuit can be readily located in an emergency or for servicing needs. It is generally recommended, and now often required, that there be a main disconnect to shut down the house’s electrical system quickly and easily. If there is no main, consideration should be given to providing one, particularly if there are numerous submains or household circuits.

The rating of circuit breakers and fuses must be compatible with the connected wire. Oversized fuses or circuit breakers present a potential hazard. The standard household wire sizes are 14 AWG (American Wire Gauge) and 12 AWG; these conductors should be protected by 15 and 20 amp fuses or breakers, respectively. Multiple circuits connected to a single overload device are often found. While this practice is common, the potential for an operational nuisance or overload hazard may exist. It is good practice (and in many cases required) to have only one wire connected to an individual circuit breaker or fuse.

Grounding and Polarity
Electric continuity or bonding must be provided from all points in an electrical system to a grounding electrode (rod). Ungrounded components should be corrected. Older two-prong electrical receptacles without grounding provisions do not allow for the proper grounding of appliances. While an adapter may work in certain temporary situations, permanently grounded three-prong receptacles are recommended in locations where appliance grounding is required. In some situations, rewiring of the circuit(s) may be necessary. Another common condition, reverse polarity, occurs when the electric conductors on a circuit are reversed or improperly connected at a receptacle, or other device. While the affected device may function, the potential for electrical shock under certain circumstances exists and should be rectified. If a spot check of a system indicates improper grounding or reverse polarity in areas, the entire system should be checked as a precautionary measure.

Knob and Tube Wiring
This is the type wiring originally used in many older homes. While it may still be functional, there are likely areas with damaged insulation and other concerns. It is a two-wire system that is not compatible with modern appliances that require grounding. If present, an electrician should check all areas to determine the repairs or upgrade work required.

Aluminum Wiring on Household Circuits
While now commonly used primarily on main service lines and major appliance circuits, aluminum wiring was also used on household circuits between 1964 and the mid 1970s. The inherent characteristics of aluminum, and the wiring methods and/or materials used for household circuits, resulted in faulty connections, which created hazardous conditions. Since then, warnings about fire concerns and the development of new devices designed for aluminum led to remedial work being done on many systems. However, it is still generally recommended that all aluminum systems be checked prior to title transfer, and periodically thereafter, to determine if remedial work is required.

Federal Pacific Electric Stab-Lok System
Issues have been raised regarding the inherent safety of FPE Stab-lok panels installed in many homes prior to 1990. Concerns focus on the ability of breakers to properly trip under overload conditions and the suitability of breaker connections. Some of these panels have already been repaired; many other panels are older and are at the point where repair or an upgrade may even be needed for other reasons. In any case, it is generally recommended that FPE Stab-Lok panels be inspected by an electrician knowledgeable with the associated issues. In many cases, replacement may be recommended.

Ground-Fault and Arc-Fault Interrupters
Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupters (GFCI) are personnel safety devices that have been required for new electric work in certain high-hazard locations (e.g., kitchens, bathrooms, and exteriors) for many years. Even if not required at construction or with completion of electric work, it is generally recommended that GFCIs be installed in all high-hazard areas. Arc-Fault Circuit-Interrupters (AFCI) are designed to reduce hazards associated with frayed wires and arcing, particularly in areas such as living rooms and bedrooms. If not present consider adding for safety. Should a GFCI or AFCI “trip,” without a readily detectable cause, the circuit in question should be checked by a licensed electrician. Regular testing of GFCIs and AFCIs using the built-in tester is recommended.

Remember, these tips are only general guidelines. Since each situation is different, contact a professional if you have questions about a specific issue. More home safety and maintenance information is available online at housemaster.com.

This information is provided for general guidance purposes only. Neither DBR Franchising, LLC nor the local HouseMaster® franchise warrants its accuracy and assumes no liability related to its use. Contact the local franchise office and/or qualified specialists for advice pertinent to your specific house or circumstances. © Copyright 2008 DBR. Each HouseMaster franchise is an independently owned and operated business. HouseMaster is a registered trademark of DBR Franchising, LLC.

The right method recesses the wood panels into the windowsills and secures the plywood panels with bolts. Remember to secure all windows and doors, including sliding glass doors. And reinforce the inside of your garage as well.

Securing Plywood Shutters
Plywood shutters are a low-cost alternative to expensive commercial shutters. You can also hire a carpenter or handyman to make custom plywood shutters for your house.

• Ideally windows need to be inset at least two inches from the exterior wall since the plywood will be mounted inside this recess.
• Each window and door should be carefully measured and a piece of plywood cut to fit snug inside the opening. Write on each panel which window or door it covers.
• Screw the barrel bolts to the panel, at least one on each side. For larger windows and doors there should be a bolt every 18 inches or so.
• Drill holes for the bolts into the framing.
• Cement an anchor into each hole. After the cement has set, install the panel to make sure everything is aligned.
• Remove and waterproof the plywood with a coat of exterior polyurethane or paint (leaving labels clear).
• Store in a dry, cool place, since heat and moisture can warp plywood.

This information is provided for general guidance purposes only. Neither DBR Franchising, LLC nor the local HouseMaster® franchise warrants its accuracy and assumes no liability related to its use. Contact the local franchise office and/or qualified specialists for advice pertinent to your specific house or circumstances. © Copyright 2008 DBR. Each HouseMaster franchise is an independently owned and operated business. HouseMaster is a registered trademark of DBR Franchising, LLC.

Asphalt shingles are available in a variety of colors, weights and patterns. Regular weight asphalt shingles generally have an economic life span of 16-20 years; heavyweight shingles are sold as 30-40 year shingles. Roof surfaces with full southern exposure tend to experience a shorter life span.

The installation of an asphalt roof involves more than just the roofing itself. As illustrated, the shingles are normally installed over solid wood or composite sheathing, which is nailed to the roof framing. A water-resistant saturated felt underlayment is typically rolled out over the sheathing before the shingles are applied. In cold climates, a special rubberized membrane is installed along the eave to provide extra protection from ice dams and water backup. Eave or gable edge flashing is also commonly used in many areas.

Flashings are also required at all roof penetrations. Flashings are angled barriers designed to divert water where a roof plane changes (valley) or at the roof surfaces around a roof protrusion (vent pipe, chimney, etc.). Poorly applied flashings open and allow water to penetrate the roof surface. If valley flashings are too narrow, backed-up water can find its way under the roofing materials. Most reported roof leaks are in fact flashing leaks.

Many homes require a roof drainage system to control water run-off from the roof and prevent damage to exterior elements and water seepage into subgrade areas. In most cases, metal or plastic gutters are hung along the eave of the roof and carry the water to downspouts, which discharge the water at ground level. Some gutters are made of wood or are built-in as part of the eave framing and lined with metal. Built-in or “Yankee” gutters are more often found on older homes and are prone to damage and eventual leakage as they age.

Downspouts, which are made of metal or vinyl, must be large enough to handle all the water collected by the gutters in a reasonable time period. At least one downspout is usually needed for each 25-30 feet of gutter length.

Gutters and downspouts also help reduce erosion along the foundation and protect steps and walkways from unwanted water (and ice) buildup. All downspouts must be piped away from the house foundation to prevent water accumulation and eventual seepage into the foundation. If underground lines are present, be certain to keep them unclogged and flowing. The major cause of the failure of roof drainage systems is blockage due to leaves, twigs and sediment buildup. Regular cleaning of gutters, especially in spring and fall, is essential. Coating of gutter interiors and sealing of seams may be needed in some cases to prolong their useful life and prevent leakage.

To obtain maximum life from your asphalt shingle roof:

• Keep trees trimmed to prevent damage to the roof surface from branches or falling limbs.
• Check the roof surface annually for obvious damage, lifted or worn shingles. Pay particular attention to valley areas and flashings.
• Have missing or damaged shingles promptly replaced.
• Periodically check the underside of the roof for signs of leakage or damage, especially around vent pipes and chimneys. Also look for any signs of mildew or mold, which may be associated with roof leakage or ventilation problems.
• Maintain good ventilation in the attic even in winter months. Poor attic ventilation can cause damage to a roof structure. Additional vents or an automatic vent fan may be required.
• In areas with heavy snowfall and subfreezing temperatures, be alert for ice dams which form along the eaves. Ice dams can cause water damage to the interior ceilings and walls.

If isolated portions of a roof show some wear, or if storm damage occurs, repairs can normally be accomplished without much difficulty. But regardless of the type of materials used, eventually all roofing will require replacement. If it is badly worn or just suffering from overall old age, limited repairs won't practically extend its service life. When reroofing, it may be possible to lay the new shingles over the old one, which can avoid the labor expense and mess of removing the old covering. Most roof framing is designed to withstand the weight of two layers of shingles. However, actual roofing conditions, roof framing conditions, and local practices and regulations will have a bearing on the method of reroofing.

Remember, these tips are only general guidelines. Since each situation is different, contact a professional if you have questions about a specific issue. More home safety and maintenance information is available online at housemaster.com.

This information is provided for general guidance purposes only. Neither DBR Franchising, LLC nor the local HouseMaster® franchise warrants its accuracy and assumes no liability related to its use. Contact the local franchise office and/or qualified specialists for advice pertinent to your specific house or circumstances. © Copyright 2008 DBR. Each HouseMaster franchise is an independently owned and operated business. HouseMaster is a registered trademark of DBR Franchising, LLC.

Heat pumps are very energy-efficient heating systems. Since they do not generate heat like conventional fuel-burning systems, but only transfer it from one location to another, they require much less energy to produce the same amount of heat as other heating systems.

While it may be hard to comprehend, there actually is enough “heat” in outdoor air or below the frozen earth surface to heat a house during the winter months. However, the amount of available heat decreases dramatically at lower temperatures. Consequently, the efficiency of a heat pump also decreases significantly as the temperature of the heat source drops below moderate levels; a factor that indicates heat pumps are not well suited for all climates. Most houses with heat pumps also need a supplemental source of heat for low-temperature conditions (typically when air temperatures fall below about 40º F or 4º C).

Heat pumps are able to transfer heat by the movement of a refrigerant through an alternating cycle of evaporation and condensation. An electric-powered compressor drives the refrigerant through the cycle – as it does in most residential air conditioning and refrigeration systems – allowing it to absorb heat at one point and give it up at another.

The primary components of a heat-pump system are basically the same as those found in air conditioning and refrigeration systems. But a heat pump uses a special four-way (reversing) valve that automatically changes the direction of the refrigerant flow – allowing the system to remove heat from outdoors in winter and from indoors in summer.

There are two basic types of heat pumps: (1) air-source and (2) geothermal heat pumps. The majority of heat pumps are air-source systems, which use outdoor air as a heat source in winter, and air as the medium to which heat is transferred to in the summer.

Geothermal systems make use of the heat available year round in the earth or water. There are two types of geothermal systems: (1) open systems, which use the water from a well as a heat source, and (2) closed systems, which use a liquid run through a continuous loop of piping buried in the ground or installed in a body of water. Geothermal heat pumps are very efficient systems but also very expensive to install.

In cold weather, a fan draws outdoor air across a coil containing an even colder refrigerant. The refrigerant absorbs the heat in the air (as heat moves from hot to cold) and is drawn as a gas into the compressor where a pressure increase creates a temperature increase. The refrigerant is then pumped to the indoor coil where a fan blows air across the coil (condenser) and the refrigerant’s heat is transferred to the cooler household air. The resulting warmed air is distributed throughout the home via a duct system. Meanwhile the refrigerant, which has condensed to a liquid, travels back to the outdoor coil where the cycle begins again.

In warm weather, the reversing value automatically changes the direction of the refrigerant flow and heat from indoors is transferred outdoors. When the outdoor air temperature dips appreciably, a supplemental heating system (often electric resistance coils) provides the needed heating boost. As in all electrically heated homes, adequate wall and ceiling insulation, as well as insulated windows or storms, is a necessity if utility bills are to be kept reasonable.

One issue to note: The temperature of the heated air provided by a heat pump (90°-100°F, 32°-38°C) is lower than that provided by a conventional warm air system (+120°F, +99°C), and may even be lower than body temperature. For this reason, a high volume/low velocity duct system with properly placed supply outlets is required to maintain heating comfort.

Heat pump manufacturers recommend homeowners consider the following operational and maintenance issues:

• Air filters should be cleaned or replaced on a regular basis (typically monthly in season).
• A heat pump works most efficiently when it maintains room temperature; avoid large temperature setbacks overnight or during the work day.
• While it may seem cold air is coming from the supply outlets during the heating season, this is a factor of heat pump design; comfort heating should still be attainable with a properly designed and used system.
• The system will periodically go into a defrost mode to remove any ice build-up on the outdoor coil in the winter.
• The outdoor unit should be positioned above the prevailing snow line with suitable clearance around the unit maintained year round.
• Expect the unit to run continuously at low outdoor temperatures, or a switch over to the supplemental heat system.

Remember, these tips are only general guidelines. Since each situation is different, contact a professional if you have questions about a specific issue. More home safety and maintenance information is available online at housemaster.com.

This information is provided for general guidance purposes only. Neither DBR Franchising, LLC nor the local HouseMaster® franchise warrants its accuracy and assumes no liability related to its use. Contact the local franchise office and/or qualified specialists for advice pertinent to your specific house or circumstances. © Copyright 2008 DBR. Each HouseMaster franchise is an independently owned and operated business. HouseMaster is a registered trademark of DBR Franchising, LLC.