Roger Frost

A sewage drain field and a septic tank make up a small scale sewage treatment system. A septic tank is basically a rectangular shaped underground receptacle for wastewater. It is watertight, made of concrete, and consists of tanks that are divided into chambers. The first chamber has twice the volume as the second and the majority of the organic solid matter, referred to as sludge, gets settled here. The second chamber further purifies the wastewater. The septic tank collects wastewater from toilets, showers, sinks, etc. Due to the absence of a current the sludge quickly settles down to the tank floor. Anaerobic bacterial digestive activity on the sludge leads to the generation of methane and carbon dioxide; the sludge is stabilized and does not rot anymore. Particles of stabilized sludge stay settled, some may float to the top as scum. A septic tank should be constructed such that there is maximum contact time with the microorganisms so as to enable swifter digestion of the sludge. This is achieved by placing the inlet, overflow, and outlet diagonal to each other and by making the streams flow in vertically placed pipes. The semi-purified water moves to the second chamber via the overflows that are constructed such that the upward motion of water prevents larger particles from flowing into the second chamber. The feeding, digestion, and settlement of organic matter continues in the second chamber. The retention time in the second chamber is half that of the first chamber because of its size and the fact that the amount of organic matter to treat is less. The outlet is constructed in the diagonal corner to the overflow. The treated wastewater is directed to a drain field, also known as a seepage field, where any impurities that still exist get decomposed naturally, the water is taken up by the plant root system or it may even become a part of the groundwater. The large sized drainage field is required if the soil is not very porous. A septic system can be made to work entirely by using gravitational forces; at some places, however, a pump may be required to overcome topographical limitations. The rate of sludge generation in septic tanks is around 0.05 cubic yards every year for an individual. Septic tanks need to be emptied every few years so that there is enough reaction space for the microorganisms to attack the wastewater and for the sludge to settle. The septic tank may be emptied every 5-7 years depending upon the amount of wastewater it processes. The tank is emptied using an exhauster truck manned by trained personnel. The sludge that is sucked into the exhauster truck is released into public waste water treatment plants, sanitary landfills, or sludge drying beds. Properly digested sludge can be used as a natural fertilizer; this is possible only if no fresh wastewater is added to the tank for at least one week. The design of the septic tank should be such that the wastewater always flows in its designated path and no short circuits in the water flow occur. T-pipe-connectors with inflow and outflow openings under the water level should be used for inlet, overflow, and outlet pipes. This prevents the floating scum from clogging the pipes. A grease trap should be provided for the wastewater inflow pipe. When you buy a car, you are given an owner's manual with instructions on how to care for your car. Septic tanks can cost as much or more than a car, unfortunately nobody gives you a manual when they are installed. Some people don't even know they have a septic tank! As a result, many septic systems fail unnecessarily. The Price for Failure is Steep The price for failure is steep in two way. More than 1200 people in the US die each year from contaminated water, and failing septic systems are a leading source of waterborne disease outbreaks in the country today. In a 2000 EPA report, 31 states listed septic systems as their second greatest potential source of groundwater contamination. Septic system replacement is also very expensive, with costs often running from $5,000 to $20,000 or more. Fortunately, there are some highly effective, ineffective steps you can take to eliminate this problem. Before discussing solutions, let's look at why septic systems fail. Septic tank maintenance is actually pretty easy to understand. When a system fails, the tank itself doesn't fail- the drainfield soil fails. In most cases the soil fails when it gets plugged up with solids and won't allow liquid to pass through it. For example, it can get plugged with solids from the tank if the tank hasn't been pumped, or with lint from a washing machine. Now for your solutions: 1. Use a washing machine filter. Did you know that washing machines are a leading cause of septic system failure? The primary culprit is lint generated by washing machines, which clogs the soil in drain fields. Did you know that a typical family washing machine produces enough lint each year to carpet and entire living room floor! Lint screens and nylon traps found in hardware stores trap 5% or less of these particles. Because they are so light and small, the lint particles do not settle out in the septic tank. Instead, they stay in suspension and are flushed out to the drain field, where they plug up the pores of the soil bed. To compound the problem, much of our clothing is now manufactured with synthetic materials such as polyester and nylon. These substances are not biodegradable, and will not break down in a septic system. Instead, they accumulate and plug the soil. Once these materials enter the soil, there is no way to remove them. The good news is that lint can be prevented from entering the septic system through the use of a reusable, inline filter which attaches to your washing machine discharge hose. The filter, called the Filtrol 160, retails for $139.95. 2. Avoid Excessive Water Use You can also damage your septic system by doing a large number of laundry loads in a short period of time. In standard septic systems, solid materials settle in the tank, while effluent flows out into the ground. If you put more water into the system than it is built to handle, the high volume of water will flood your system, and can also stir up and flush solids out of the tank into the drain field (in fact, septic pumpers use water from their hoses to help break up solids in your tank before pumping them out). A typical washing machine can use up to 60 gallons of water per wash load. On a heavy day you can easily put 400, 500 or 600 gallons of water through the system in a few hours. The solution is to spread out your water use. Do one or two loads of laundry per day, rather than 10-12 loads on Saturday morning. Water softeners can also damage your system by putting too much water through the septic system. These devices can put several hundred gallons of water down the drain every week, water that is not contaminated and does not need to go through the treatment process. There are a couple solutions to this problem. You can upgrade your softener with a newer efficient model that uses less water and regenerates on demand, instead of a timer system that regenerates whether you use water or not. You can also install a mini septic system for your water softener. 3. Prevent Solids from Leaving the Tank First of all, you should get your tank pumped on a regular basis to prevent excessive accumulation of solids in the tank. Under normal conditions, you should have the tank inspected and pumped every 1-3 years. Very important: tanks should be pumped and inspected through the manhole cover, not the inspection pipe. Your septic contractor should also install an effluent filter in the exit baffle of the tank. Effluent filters stop the larger solids from getting out to the drainfield. They are cleaned out every few years when you have your tank pumped. They are usually only about $80. Effluent filters are cheap insurance and along with a washing machine filter, one of the best things you can do to protect your system. 4. Use of Household Cleaning Products Excessive use of these products can contribute to septic system failure. If you do over 5 loads a week containing bleach, problems could arise. Avoid powdered detergents as they contain plastic fillers that can plug up your lines and drain field. Also, be careful with harsh automatic toilet bowl cleaners, which have put quite a few systems out of commission. 5. Should I Use a Separate System for My Washing Machine? Some people say you should use a separate system for your washing machine, called a laundry interceptor. However, this is not necessary and in fact undesirable. Washing machines should discharge into the regular system because it actually works better than discharging into its own system. In order to work, septic systems require bacteria colonies which break down biodegradable matter. These bacteria require "food" which is found in our wastewater, but not in detergent. Without "food" these bacteria colonies die out and the system fails. Many people who have installed these systems have found this out the hard way. A research project conducted in several east coast states utilized some rather high tech systems for washing machine discharge and many began failing in as little as eight months. Septic Tank Maintenance Tips: Do: divert surface runoff water from roofs, patios, driveways and other areas away from your drainfield. Have your septic tank pumped regularly. It should also be inspected for leaks, cracks and to make sure the exit baffle is in place. Install lint and effluent filters. Spread out your laundry loads. Compost your garbage or put it in the trash Don't: Use a garbage disposal. These appliances normally double the amount of solids added to the tank! Flush sanitary napkins, disposable diapers or other non-biodegradable products into your system. Dump solvents, oils, paint thinners, disinfectants, pesticides or poisons down the drain as they can disrupt the treatment process and contaminate the groundwater. Dig in your drainfield or build anything over it. Drive over your drainfield or compact the soil in any way. Plant trees or shrubbery close to the septic system, because the roots can get in the lines and plug them. Grass is the only thing that should be planted on or near a drainfield. If Your System Fails In quite a few cases, a tune-up can fix your system and you can avoid the high costs of replacing the system. This tuneup includes properly pumping the tank, cleaning (jetting) the drainfield lines, and installing washing machine and effluent filters. If these measures are not sufficient, some failed systems can be rejuvenated by fracturing the soil. This process utilizes a hollow tube inserted into the soil, then a 300 pound blast or air is injected into the soil creating thousands of tiny fissures. These fissures allow the drainfield to drain, creating an oxygen atmosphere and the aerobic bacterial colonies to repopulate. Aerobic bacteria, which require oxygen, typically live in the top 26 inches of the drainfield and process waste much more quickly than anaerobic bacteria. This process can be performed in a matter of hours with no digging or damage to the yard. One company which performs this service is Terralift International (http://www.terraliftinternational.com). If you have a clay soil which has become plugged due to sodium from wastewater binding with the clay, Septic Seep can help. These product releases sodium bonded clays and reopens soil, restoring passages air and water. It also has the benefit of dispersing greases and scums that clog the soil.

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Sequence for painting a room is from top to bottom: Ceiling first, then walls, then windows, doors and finally baseboards. Great interior painting is as easy as one-two-three There are many reasons why interior painting is the nation's most popular home improvement project. Painting can quickly and dramatically transform the appearance of a room, an apartment or an entire home; it's personally rewarding; it's inexpensive; and it's fun. Moreover, interior painting is easy. According to the Rohm and Haas Paint Quality Institute, even novices can often get professional painting results by following just three simple rules Rule number one: Prepare the surface properly Good paint performance depends on good paint adhesion, and paint adheres best to surfaces that are clean and sound. Before picking up a brush or roller, it's important to make sure the surface is "inviting" to the paint. Accumulated dirt, dust and grime should be removed from walls, ceilings and trim with a detergent-water solution. After washing, the surfaces should be thoroughly rinsed with water and allowed to dry completely. Next, a putty knife should be used to fill cracks, holes and other surface imperfections with either spackling compound or a quality acrylic caulk. If spackling is used, after it is dry it should be sanded smooth and flush with the surface; caulk should be smoothed and feathered as it is applied. Finally, if walls or ceilings have water stains or other serious discol-oration, then before painting, it may be necessary to coat them with a latex or oil-based stain-blocking primer to prevent the stains from bleeding through the new paint. Rule number two: Use only top quality paint Compared with ordinary interior paints, top quality finishes are much easier to work with and offer superior long-term performance. In terms of application benefits, top quality paints won't spatter or tend to show brush marks. And since they hide better than ordinary paints, a single coat is often sufficient to give a great looking paint job and save on time, labor and cost. Top quality interior paints also are tougher and more durable than ordinary interior paints, according to experts at the Paint Quality Institute. They resist fading, yellowing and staining. And even if they do get spotted or stained, discoloration can often be washed off without damaging the finish. Rule number three: Invest in quality tools To get the most from top quality interior paint, it should be applied with high quality brushes and rollers. Not only will they apply the paint more evenly, but they will also make the job more effortless The best brushes tend to be well balanced, hold a lot of paint and apply the paint evenly. Look for brushes with tightly packed bristles and test them for springiness. And be sure they don't fan too much. When applying the more popular latex or water-based interior paints, it's important to use brushes and rollers with synthetic bristles and covers. They'll maintain the proper stiffness and keep their shape regardless of the amount of water they're exposed to. Most oil-based or alkyd paints can be applied with brushes and rollers made either of synthetic or natural materials. Remember. interior painting can be as simple as one-two-three. But there are no shortcuts. Good surface preparation, top quality paint and high quality tools are all essential to get the best Ceilings First cut in a 2 inch wide strip with a brush around the edges of the ceiling. Switch to a roller (usually 3/8 or 1/2 inch for flat paints) with a 4 - 5 ft extension pole.. Staring at a corner, paint a section about 3 feet square. Use a zigzag pattern, paint a W" pattern on the ceiling, which will disperse the paint on the roller evenly. Fill in this 3 ft section without reloading the roller until you have complete coverage of this section. Continue to cover the ceiling, working across its shortest dimension in 3 foot square sections, overlapping while paint is wet to minimize lap marks. Walls Starting at the ceiling, cut in 2 inch strip with a brush. Continue with the brush to cut in 2 inch strips in corners, around windows, doors, cabinets and baseboards. Note - there are tools available at your paint retail outlets that help make this "edging" job easier. Other "tricks" include sliding the roller cover off the holder slightly so the rollers edge gets closer to ceiling, window or door. Switch to a roller and paint in a vertical direction using a zigzag pattern. Push the roller upward on the first stroke, then form an "M" pattern to evenly distribute the paint on the roller. (working in 3 ft sections is recommended). Fill in the "M" pattern without reloading the roller until you have complete coverage of the area. Continue with this approach until the wall is finished. Touching up spots you missed when the paint is wet will help minimize sheen potential sheen differences. Most manufacturers recommend that when you finish one wall, make sure you have enough paint to complete the next entire wall. Starting with another can of paint in the middle of a wall can result in slightly different colors, which will be perceptible side by side, but not wall to wall. Doors Open door wide to reach all parts to be covered. Protect hinges and other metal with masking tape. Always start at the top. If the door is paneled, paint the panels first, the horizontal sections next and finally the vertical sections. If the door opens into the room you are painting, use the same color on the latch edge that you have used for the rest of the door. If it opens into the next room, do not paint the hinged edge. It should be the same color as the other room Decks Due to the growing popularity of decks, there are now a wide variety of Deck finishes - ranging from conventional penetrating ones to new water based latex ones. In the alkyd category, there are clears, semi transparent and opaque finishes. In latex, semi transparent and opaque. Many homeowners are starting to use the semi transparent or opaque to maximize the protection and duration of their deck coating. Begin by cleaning and power washing to remove dirt, mildew and old coatings. If you are using a clear, penetrating coatings, deck brightening products help restore a "new wood" look to the wood.. Both sides of the railings should also be powerwashed. Brushes and Rollers - Once the deck is clean and thoroughly dry, start with a brush on the outside of the deck, on tops of the railing and work your way down to the deck, then in toward the house. Then switch to a roller for the deck, starting at an outside edge and working toward the house. Use even pressure on the roller on each board to give uniform coverage and sheen. Spraying is another way to coat decks - faster than brush/roller, but you must be sure to protect scrubs etc. from overspray. Spray equipment can be rented at many paint stores, home centers or rental companies. Check with a paint professional for tip size and pressure setting - which will depend on the type of coating you use. Spray railings first, unless the railings are to be a different color than the deck. Then the deck should be coated first. One trip for protecting plants or other objects from overspray is to tape kraft paper to the outside of the railing, which will catch the overspray. When spraying the deck itself, spray evenly over a six foot square area, then go over that area with a 1/2 inch nap roller to spread coating evenly into deck. Continue this procedure in sections until deck is covered. Be sure to use a large shield (such as 4 ft square piece of cardboard) when painting alongside the house to protect it from overspray. Windows Of all the woodwork in the home, windows suffer the most stress. Constant exposure to temperature changes and condensation means that windows often need to be painted more frequently than doors, moldings and trim. Unfortunately, the process involved in painting windows can be confusing. To simplify things, the Rohm and Haas Paint Quality Institute offers some window painting guidelines that can save you time, money and aggravation. Start by gathering the right tools for window painting: a 1 1/2" or 2" quality brush (use synthetic bristles if you are painting with one of the popular latex interior paints); a cutting-in brush for precision work; a paint shield or masking tape; a screwdriver; enough top quality paint to complete the job. Remove locks, curtain hooks and other hardware from the windows. This will speed your work and produce a better-looking paint job. Double-hung windows For double-hung windows, follow this six-step procedure: 1. Raise the bottom sash and lower the top sash most of the way, so that there is a 6" overlap. Paint the bottom horizontal section of the top sash, then the accessible vertical members. Use care to keep paint from getting in between sash and frame which can "glue" the window in place. 2. Nearly close the upper and lower sashes, then finish painting the rest of the top sash. 3. Paint the entire bottom sash. 4. After allowing the sashes to dry, paint the window frame. 5. Close the windows and paint the exposed parts of the runners. If your windows have sash cords, avoid getting paint on them. 6. Paint the window sill and apron. Casement windows If your home has any casement windows (windows that open out or in, rather than up or down), use a different technique: 1. Open the windows and paint the top, side and bottom edges. 2. Paint the crossbars and frame casings. 3. Complete the job by painting the sill and apron. Regardless of the type of windows you are painting, if you have a steady hand, you can keep paint on the frame and off the glass by using the cutting-in brush. But be sure to overlap the paint onto the glass slightly to help seal off moisture and drafts. There are two other techniques for keeping paint off of the window panes: holding up a paint shield as you work or applying masking tape to the glass. When using tape, press it firmly to the glass to keep excess paint from creeping beneath it. (If stray specks of paint get onto the glass, simply remove them with a razor blade.) Remove the tape before the paint dries to a hard film. Some final tips from the experts at the Paint Quality Institute: Before starting to paint, repair any damage to the window and properly prepare the surface. This can be done by scraping off old paint, then sanding, and priming any spots where bare wood shows. (Get more advice on surface preparation at your local paint retailer, hardware store or decorating center.) Paint windows early in the day so that they have enough time to dry before you close them in the evening. Finish painting each piece in the direction of the wood grain.

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Picking the right caulk can be the hardest part of any caulking job. Most hardware stores carry dozens of different products, each promising better results than the other. If you use the wrong caulk, the joint will fail long before it should, which means that you'll need to do the job all over again. Although some manufacturers now include helpful job-specific labels, others provide little information or overstate their products' performance. Here's how to pick the right product for whatever job is at hand.

CHEMISTRY COUNTS

Despite the dizzying selection, caulks are all made from one of four base, or backbone, polymers: latex, silicone, polyurethane or rubber. The base polymer determines specific characteristics, such as what materials it will adhere to, how easily joints can be smoothed, durability and paintability. Most caulks are sold in long tubes, and you apply them using an inexpensive, hand-pumped caulk gun.

LATEX

Also labeled as acrylic caulk, vinyl caulk or sealant, water-based latex products are the easiest to use, the least expensive and handle the widest range of applications. Latex caulks don't contain volatile chemicals, which means you can smooth joints with a wet finger and clean up excess with soap and water. All latex caulks can be painted, or you can also find a wide palette of pretinted caulks.

Latex-based caulks break into two sub-groups: less expensive acrylics and better-quality "siliconized" latexes. Acrylic latex is fine for sealing areas that won't face major temperature changes or high moisture levels, such as interior windows, doors and trim. Siliconized latex caulks contain a small amount of silanes (a form of silicone) to promote better adhesion. (This is not the same as 100 percent silicone caulk; see below.)

The best siliconized latexes are a good choice for heavy-duty work, such as exterior windows and doors, and caulking seams in kitchens and bathrooms, and to keep moisture out of walls and floors.

SILICONE

Silicone sealants were first used to bond glass panels to skyscrapers - afar more demanding job than most home improvement projects. Because they stay flexible at all temperatures, are completely waterproof, bond well to almost everything and won't support mildew growth, silicones are used around sinks, tubs and shower stalls.

Silicones come in two types: neutral cure or acid cure. Acid-cure silicones work best on nonporous surfaces such as glass and glazed tile, but they can corrode metal and etch some plastics. Neutral-cure silicones work well on metal and wood .

Silicones aren't perfect. For starters, these caulks are hard to smooth, and most won't hold paint (one exception is GE's new XST paintable silicone). If you need to recaulk, the old residue is almost impossible to remove.

POLYURETHANE

Polyurethanes excel as outdoor caulks. Since they are non-corrosive, extremely tear resistant and stick reliably to almost anything, they're a good choice for joints between dissimilar materials, such as metal-to-masonry joints around chimneys, wood-to-concrete joints at the sill plate, and masonry joints in driveways and concrete slabs.

Polyurethanes are not naturally ultraviolet resistant, so exterior joints should be painted or otherwise protected from sunlight. Tooling joints isn't as easy as with latex caulks, but easier than with silicones.

The biggest downside to this type is price: Polyurethanes are more expensive than most other caulks. Use them where strength, durability and weatherproofing are most important.

RUBBER

These products are made with synthetic rubber compounds such as isoprene, butadiene, nitrile and styrene. Rubber caulks will also stick to almost everything (but they melt styrofoam) and will even work with damp and oily materials. Their biggest downside is their smell; the solvents used are highly flammable and dangerous to breathe. For that reason, this caulk should only be used outdoors. Another drawback is shrinkage: After the solvent evaporates, the bead can shrink by as much as 35 percent.

Handy? Get Your Gun

For most projects, you'll want to use a standard 10-ounce caulk cartridge. For it, you'll need a caulk gun ( above ). There are two basic types of hand-operated guns. Ratchet guns (about $3) have a notched piston, which pushes the caulk out. To stop the flow of caulk, you have to twist the piston with your free hand to disengage the ratchet. Smooth-rod guns ($5 to $10) are easier to use. To release piston pressure and stop the flow of caulk, you simply press the quick-release plate above the handle with your thumb.

For small jobs, like caulking around a new faucet or making minor repairs, consider buying a squeezable tube (right).

LAYING A PERFECT BEAD

Once you've decided what caulk to use, the perfect caulk job depends upon careful prep work and application. To clean old caulk and soap scum from tiles and porcelain surfaces, first use a razor knife or caulk remover then wipe down the entire surface with a residueless solvent, like isopropyl alcohol. Remove any mildew with a solution of one part bleach to two parts water. For stone, brick and concrete surfaces, use a wire brush to remove dirt and crystallized minerals, then vacuum up loose debris. With wood, scrape away loose paint and old caulk, then prime any bare spots.

Most caulks are designed to be used between 40 and 90 degrees. On the lower end of their working temperature, most caulks get thick and difficult to squeeze out. To prevent this, keep the tubes indoors until you need them, or store them in an insulated cooler when working outside in the cold.

These removable caulks are good choices for sealing drafts around older, double-hung windows.

To start a tube, most pros cut the tip of the tube at a 45-degree angle, although some prefer a straight cut for caulking corners. Whichever style you choose, don't make the opening too big. Cut the tip where its diameter matches the width of the gap you're filling. Then poke a hole in the tip to release the caulk. (Most caulk guns have a handy fold-out tool for this.)

Caulked joints should have a concave shape, with thick sides to ensure good adhesion and a thinner middle to allow the joint to expand and contract. If the caulk sticks completely to the back of the crack it will be less able to stretch and more likely to pull away or tear. To prevent this, you can use a plastic foam backer rod in gaps over one-quarter inch thick. Available in several diameters, backer rods not only prevent sagging, they also provide extra insulation and save caulk.

For an extra-neat caulk job, mask both sides of the gap with painter's tape. As you caulk, maintain even pressure and keep the tip moving.

To apply the caulk, the pros are equally divided between the push and pull methods. Pull advocates say their method produces a smoother bead, while caulk pushers claim their method forces more caulk into the joint. Whichever you choose, the key is to squeeze out an even, full bead that completely fills the crack. As you near the end of the joint, release the handle pressure to avoid excess.

Finish by smoothing the bead. This tooling does more than smooth the surface: It forces material into the gap, fills minor voids and pushes material against the sides to ensure good adhesion. The most common tooling device is your finger, but you can also use an ice cube, the back of a spoon or a commercial device. Whatever you use, try to tool the joint just once: Overtooling can remove too much material from the joint. Minor bumps can be trimmed off with a razor blade after the caulk has cured.

Recently I had my heating ducts cleaned in my house after finishing a renovation project. The duct cleaning company used a video camera to inspect my ducts before and during cleaning, what a sight to behold! There were pieces of drywall left over from the original construction and of course lots of dust. I talked to many companies prior to choosing Anderson duct cleaning, and as they explained, the main difference is two fold; one if you don't use a service that actually contacts all the areas of your ducts you will not remove the dust that is attached to your ducts, and two; using a camera guarantees that all the dust and debris is being removed. Shawn, the owner, also gave me a great tip, when doing any kind of work in your home that can generate dust, close off your cold air returns to stop any dust from entering your duct work.

A typical house contains dust from pollen, spores, pet dander, lint, bacteria, etc. Even regular home activities like cooking or dusting add to the dust in the air inside the house. Such dust particles results in irritation of eyes and on entering the respiratory system, may cause respiratory disorders, damage to the lungs, or in unique cases, even cancer.

I now have two transparent inspection plates in my furnace, one on the cold air return and the other on the supply side duct work. As Shawn explained, after the major duct cleaning, I will now only have to have my cold air ducts cleaned when I can visibly see dust starting to collect in the duct work. Considerably cheaper than having whole system cleaned. The secret to keeping your supply side duct work clean is using a proper air filter. Shawn recommended staying away from cardboard edged filters as they often collapsed inside the cold air return and allowed dust and contaminates to pass.

In order to keep the quality of the air inside the home healthy, good quality furnace filters for your furnace unit should be used. There are various types of filters available on the market. These can be disposable, reusable or refillable. They're usually made from materials like fibreglass, metal, man-made or natural fibres. The efficiency of a filter is decided by fibre size, fibre density, airflow rate and particle diameter. Different types of filters available in the market are:Panel Filter- These types of furnace filters commonly consist of 1" fibreglass filter installed in the ducts. However, these furnace filters are not very effective in removing dust from the air, as its primary function is protection of the internal fan and minimizing dust on the heating coil. These are a very basic filter and can trap only larger particles from the air.

Washable/Reusable Filters- These are meant for extended use, and with regular cleaning and maintenance serve a very long life. Their downside is that it is nearly impossible to get completely cleaned and therefore adds resistance to the airflow. These types of furnace filters are also not very effective in trapping very small particles.

Pleated Filters- These are a modified kind of panel filters that have pleats or folds to increase its surface area. This design change makes it more efficient at trapping dust particles due to increased surface area. However, here too, the furnace filter starts resisting airflow once it starts collecting dust particles and thus should be replaced regularly.

High Efficiency Pleated Filters- These filters have an additional component of electrostatic charge that is designed to capture extremely small particles and various allergens, which make-up 99% of the particulate composition of the air. However, even these should be changed at regular intervals to maintain the air quality, and the airflow. Alternatively, refillable furnace filters are also available in this type.

High Efficiency Particulate Air (HEPA) Filters- These are extended filters that are able to remove sub-micron particles with high efficiency. HEPA filters have corrugated separators that have the core filters folded back and forth over it. This gives strength and also facilitates air passage between the pleats. However, these types of filters are not designed to fit most of the standard furnaces, as they require a separate system that includes a fan and a filter.

Choosing an air filter can be a daunting task with the number of filters and varying prices. One tip is common with all the experts that I read and watched on TV, if you can see through your filter then it no good. Most recommended the pleated type of filter which gives you more surface area of filter. These filters can then be chosen by the size of particulates that they will pass. The more particulates they filter the more expensive they become. Electrically charged filters were recommended to be one of the better filters as they also come in a washable model. My particle model has a pretty standard 16 X 25 X 1 inch filter but there are cartridge filters available that are up to 5 inches thick.

Electronic air filters charge the particles as they pass which then attracts them to the filter. These filters can then be removed and cleaned in your dishwasher. Both the larger cartridge filter and the electronic air filter have to be custom fitted to your furnaces cold air return.

Remember to periodically to check your furnace filter as the more particulates they collect the more frequently they should be changed as they will affect the air flow to your furnace.

Written by Roger Frost

Air Barrier – Its Design and Purpose by the Orillia Home Inspector
In Ontario the air barrier in a home is installed under the authority of the Ontario Building 9.25.4.3. Installation of Vapour Barriers

(1) Vapour barriers shall be installed to protect the entire surfaces of thermally insulated wall,
ceiling and floor assemblies.
(2) Vapour barriers shall be installed sufficiently close to the warm side of insulation to prevent
condensation at design conditions.

Where a vapour retarder is employed, the opposite wall surface must provide a permeable surface to allow drying to occur. Thus, in hot, humid, cooling climates, where a vapor retarder is employed at the exterior, the interior wall surfaces should be permeable. Novapor retarder paints, kraft-faced insulation, or vinyl wall coverings should be used. Conversely, in northern heating climates, with interior vapour retarders, the exterior wall coverings should be vapour permeable. This simply means that in warmer climates where cooling is the main concern, the vapour barrier would be installed on the outside of the insulation.

House wraps are a permeable surface which, while protecting your home from the elements allows moisture to pass. This allows any moisture that is between your vapour barrier and house wrap can escape and evaporate rather than collecting in your wall system. The primary attribute of house wraps is their ability to operate as air infiltration barriers while not forming an impervious vapour barrier. When placed over the exterior surface of the wall sheathing, the material allows moisture vapour to escape from the frame wall cavity while reducing convective air movement in the insulation, thereby helping to maintain the composite R-value of the wall.

The Dew Point of your house is the area where warm moist air will convert to moisture. The dewpoint is a measure of atmospheric moisture. It is the temperature at which air must be cooled in order to reach saturation (assuming that air pressure and moisture content are constant). As the surface of the earth cools at night, warm moist air near the ground is chilled and water vapour in the air condenses into droplets on the grass and other objects. Dew is particularly heavy on clear nights, when the earth cools rapidly. When a blanket of cloud insulates the earth, the cooling rate is slower. The greater the difference between the temperature and the dew point, the drier the air

When warm moist air infiltrates your vapour barrier, and passes through to your exterior wall, when it meets a cold surface or void, moisture is created as it cooled to its dew point. This can cause wet insulation, frost on exterior walls and in some cases even mould.

Prevention is possible by ensuring all your insulation is covered by a vapour barrier, most codes call for a minimum of 6 mm poly, and all penetrations are overlapped and taped by Tuck tape, the red tape not the silver duct tape of Red Green fame. All electrical boxes, windows, switches, and vent penetrations should be tightly sealed.

Basements are more susceptible to breaks in vapour barriers due to the fact that most services are located there and many installers fail to replace insulation and repair holes in vapour barriers etc. This can be increased if you have laundry facilities located in your basement and an open sump hole which contains water.

Humidity is the main factor of the creation of moisture and if you live in a climate where the humidity is less than 35% this would not be an issue for you. So if you have high humidity using a dehumidifier in your basement can alleviate these moisture problems.