Peter Testa

Nationwide Homes Real Estate Professional Pete Testa

If you are looking to purchase a new home, or place your home on the market for sale, Pete Testa is a Full Time Realtor & Top Producer serving Sellers across Fairfield & Litchfield Counties, Connecticut. Buyer's serviced in the towns of Danbury, Brookfield, Bethel, New Fairfield, Newtown, Sherman & New Milford, CT.

Visit My CT Real Estate Site & Search the CT MLS. Search For Homes For Sale throughout Connecticut.

You can find Pete Testa at:

• Nationwide Homes, 57 North Street, Suite 322, Danbury, CT 06810
• Phone: (203) 442-3873
• Email: petertesta@yahoo.com

As you proceed down Crows Nest Lane in the Shelter Rock neighborhood of Danbury, CT you'll come across Birchwood; a well-known & popular condominium community featuring both Ranch & Townhouse style condominiums for rent & for sale.

Entrance to Birchwood Community - Danbury, CT

Birchwood Townhomes have outperformed other condominium complexes in the area, showing far less depreciation than neighboring communities. I have posted recent sales data going back 6 months & covering the period of September 2008 through March 2009. I also point to indicating factors of future value.

4 Sales for period spanning September 2008 - March 2009

Sept. 2008 - Unit 7J

Oct. 2008 - Unit 17K

Jan. 2009 - Unit 13E

Feb. 2009 - Unit 20E

Average Sale Price for this period = $230,350

Pool & Tennis Courts are just a couple of the Community Amenities offered at the Birchwood Community

Bank Owned Townhouses at Birchwood

When there are Bank Owned properties in the community future value can be effected. Bank Owned (Foreclosure) properties will usually sell at a discount to market value. These lower priced sales erode the value of comparable properties at the complex. Currently there is 1 Townhome selling that is a Bank Owned.

Pending Sale - Unit 20F

• List Price: $179,900

Although the Sale Price is unknown until the deal is closed if we assume that the property sold at full price & then we factor in this fifth sale for the 6 month period we would see a drop in the average price of Birchwood Townhomes from $230,500 to $220,000. Although prices have remained stable on the townhomes this addition of a bank owned property under contract indicates a downward trend in prices. If you facotr in the September 2009 sale falling off next month- this is the highest price sale in the averaging; then future value would further deteriorate.

In a Buyer's Market like we are experiencing now it is sometimes wise to sell & take a loss if you can take advantage of low interest rates & low home prices to purchase up. Currently there is one Townhome on the market at Birchwood.

• For Sale - $229,900

If you have paid more for your unit than what the current value is & you are currently experiencing a financial hardship you may be eligible for a short sale on your property. This is where your Realtor negotiates with your bank to take less than what is owed on your current mortgage. The difference between your loan amount & the sale price is written off by your lender. Realtor & Attorney fees are also paid by the lender.

If you are looking to sell your Townhome (or Ranch) at Birchwood I would be happy to provide you with an up to date Market Value Analysis. Please contact me at (203) 442-3873 to set up a time that is convenient for you. I can also be reached via my personal email at petertesta@yahoo.com

Peter Testa, Nationwide Homes, 57 North St Suite 322, Danbury, CT 06810

Listing Agent for Birchwood & Short Sale Specialist

www.petertesta.com

This month's focus is on some common issues related to a home's plumbing system.

Q: Our recent water bills have been much higher than in the past, but we haven't been using any more water than normal and haven't noticed any leaks from pipes or fixtures. What else could contribute to a high water bill?

One possibility is a leaking toilet tank. First check the water level inside the tank to make sure that water is not constantly overflowing into the overflow pipe. This is the pipe in the middle or to one side of the tank with a small rubber tube connected to it. If water is running into the overflow, adjust the float to stop the flow approximately 1 inch below the top of the overflow tube. Also check for evidence that water is leaking through the flapper at the bottom of the tank. If the flapper doesn't seal tight because it is worn or misaligned, water will continually flow down the drain. You can check for leakage by putting a few drops of food coloring into the tank. If the dye makes its way into the water in the bowl the flapper needs to be reset or replaced.

Q: I have noticed a bad odor that seems to be coming from my garbage disposal. What can I do to eliminate this odor?

The buildup of food debris within the disposal can cause odors. To eliminate this odor, place ice cubes and lemon or orange peels in the disposal and run it for 30 seconds. Next, add a little liquid dish detergent into the disposal while it is still running. Finally, run cold water for about 30 seconds to rinse all the debris away. If odors still persist, try cleaning the drain trap by disconnecting it and cleaning out any debris or scum.

Q: All of a sudden, we seem to run out of hot water very quickly. After only a five-minute shower, the water starts to turn cold. I checked the burner and thermostat setting on the unit but don't see any obvious problems.

There are two possibilities. First, the cold water tube (dip tube) within the heater that directs the incoming cold water to the bottom of the tank may have broken off or deteriorated. Normally, this tube, which is now plastic in most heaters, forces the cold water to the bottom of the tank so that the hot water supplied to the house will be drawn from the top of the tank. When the dip tube breaks off or deteriorates, cold water entering the tank mixes with the hot water. The result is that the hot water drawn from the tank for the house fixtures is only lukewarm. Another possibility with an electric heater is that the lower heating element may not be operating properly. This leaves only the top element to heat the water. The cause for failure of this element could be scaling or burnout, or thermostat malfunction. If it looks like there is a problem with the heating element, a qualified serviceperson should inspect the unit.

Q: My showerhead has a buildup of a white scale. I've tried cleaning this but haven't been able to remove most of it. Is there anything I can do other than replace it?

The scale is a buildup of mineral deposits. To remove these deposits from the showerhead, unscrew it from the supply pipes and soak it overnight in a container filled with vinegar. If you can't remove it, partially fill a plastic bag and place it over the showerhead and secure it in place. After it has soaked for about 12 hours, use a brush to scrub away the deposits.

Q: I have recently noticed a "rumbling" noise when ever my gas water heater is operating. It sounds like there is a serious problem, yet I continue to get adequate hot water and don't have any leaks. What is happening?

"Rumbling" or "knocking" sounds coming from a water heater are typically signs that sediment has built up on the bottom of the water heater. What you are hearing is water trapped in the sediment that is reaching the boiling point. This sediment buildup often indicates the unit is older and likely getting near the end of its service life. It may also just indicate that there is a high mineral content in the local water supply and the tank hasn't been drained on a regular basis. In either case, the unit is operating inefficiently, as the heat of the burners has to pass through the sediment to reach the water.

Temporarily turning the water supply off, and carefully draining a few gallons of water from the bottom of the water heater to help remove the sediment may improve conditions. This is done by attaching a drain hose to the valve at the bottom of the tank and opening it for about five minutes. There is always a risk that the sediment could block the drain valve, preventing it from being closed, so have a cap handy to use on the drain spigot. Be careful -- the water is hot and can cause burns with even short-term exposure. If the unit is over 10 years, it may be best to consider replacing the unit.

Q: The temperature of my hot water seems to be higher than it should be. How can I be sure that there is an adequate amount of hot water, but not use any more energy than needed?

Generally the recommended minimum hot water supply is 120° degrees Fahrenheit (48° Celsius), which is also the new standard that manufacturers use when pre-setting it at the factory. If you have an older model, set the thermostat at medium and double check the water temperature at the first fixture after the water heater to make sure it is not too high. On a gas model, the temperature control is usually located on the gas valve in the front of the unit. Be careful, a "warm" setting on the thermostat may still produce water that is too hot. The supply temperature should never be above 140° F. On electric models, the thermostats (there are usually two) are concealed behind an upper and lower panel on the tank. The upper thermostat should be set about 10° higher than the lower one (or as recommended by the manufacturer). IMPORTANT: Turn off the electricity before removing any panels to adjust the thermostats; there may be exposed live wires behind the panels!

Remember, these tips are only general guidelines. Since each situation is different, contact a professional if you have questions about a specific issue.

HEATING EQUIPMENT IS A LEADING CAUSE OF FIRES

According to the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) heating equipment is a leading cause of home fires during the months of December through February, and trails only cooking equipment in home fires year-round. The use of space heaters popped up often as a cause of fires.

Some facts from past NFPA surveys:

• Fireplaces or chimneys rank first in the number of fires among types of heating equipment. Most of these were caused by creosote build-up.
• Portable and fixed space heaters, including wood stoves, caused a disproportionate share of the home heating fire deaths. Space heaters were involved in 25% of the home heating fires but 74% of the deaths.
• The leading cause of space heater fires was combustibles too close to the heater, except for wood stoves, where the leading cause was creosote build-up, and fixed electric space heaters, where the leading cause was unattended equipment.

Some safety tips:

• When buying a new space heater, make sure it carries the mark of an independent testing laboratory, and be sure to have fixed space heaters installed by a qualified technician, according to manufacturer's instructions or applicable codes. Or make sure a qualified technician checks to see that the unit has been properly installed.
• Keep or maintain a 36-inch (1-meter) clearance between space heaters and anything that could burn.
• Portable space heaters should be turned off every time you leave the room or go to bed.
• Have any gas-fueled heating device installed with proper attention to ventilation and air for combustion. If unvented gas space heaters are used in bedrooms or bathrooms, make sure they are small and well-mounted.
• Have wood and coal stoves, fireplaces, chimneys, chimney connectors and all other solid-fueled heating equipment inspected annually by a professional, and cleaned as often as inspections suggest.
• When burning wood in fireplaces or wood stoves, it is important to use properly seasoned wood to reduce creosote build-up.
• Make sure your fireplace has a sturdy screen to prevent sparks from flying into the room.
• Allow fireplace and woodstove ashes to cool before disposing them in a metal container.
• Test smoke alarms monthly and install a carbon monoxide alarm in a central location outside each sleeping area.

Remember, these tips are only general guidelines. Since each situation is different, contact a professional if you have questions about a specific issue.