Pictures Tell a Thousand Tales!
It's true. Words are nice. Make you feel smart. Heck, I enjoy them. Put pictures move the masses, as they say. OK, I say.
I used to painstakingly describe front elevations to clients and lenders alike, but until I had a picture to show, it was hard for many to see my vision.

I was going to build these homes in a little town called Enumclaw in Washington state a few year's back before the market crashed. These homes and the neighborhood shared a similar vision as Plum Creek here in Kyle, TX, and some other insular communities in Austin, TX, and the surrounding areas like Buda, TX.

I enjoyed homebuilding. Sometimes I miss it. But I don't miss the risk, the tension, the daily usage of antacids.

One of my favorite plans is above.

I love this business. I love meeting new people.
The new TV season is upon us
I won't pretend: I used to love TV. Watched it quite a bit. But now I find it hard to get too excited by it anymore.
I don't know, it just seems like the shows are less compelling. And I also feel like there are things I should be doing whenever I sit in front of the tube.
Lead generation. Break down the boxes for recycling. Scoop the catboxes. Sherry and I have a few shows we always watch together, but not as many as we used to.
I actually enjoy shopping at HEB Plus here in Kyle, TX, and also the regular ol' HEB in Buda, TX, is fine, too. I'd rather go shopping and maybe strike up a few conversations with strangers than sit home all night.
Any football fans out there?
In Austin, TX, football is king. In Kyle, TX, and Buda, TX, I like to believe that the NFL is king. It makes me feel better.
Sure, we love the Cowboys around here. But there are a lot of transplants who bring with them a love for another team. Eventually, of course, they will learn to love the Cowboys (or pay the price).
I am from the Seattle, WA, area, so I love the Seahawks as well as the Cowboys. (I still don't know if a Sea-Hawk is a real bird or not, and I have yet to meet a real cowboy around here)
Sundays is a big day for open houses, but I am creative the way I schedule them, so it's not a problem.
My brother-in-law has satellite TV, and one of the features is "the end-zone channel." Basically, during the groups of afternoon games, whenever there is a play in the red zone, the channel changes there. No commercials. Just football. Only the exciting parts!
The problem is, you get spoiled with this rapid-fire technology, so when a solo night game is on, let's just say the action moves somewhat slower. Kind of like baseball. Except slow works for baseball, but not for football.
Do any of you have time for sports?
The Weather Outside is Frightful!
Yes, Texas is hot. Usually. But today we've been greeted here in Kyle, TX, with a few inches of rain today. Yes, inches. But the A/C is still running, because the temperature is, while cooler than during most sunny days, still almost 80 degrees. And muggy. Yikes.
In Seattle, people were taken aback by those who would sweat profusely. The good news here is, everybody sweats. All the time!
Of course, calling that "good news" is a bit of a stretch.
I know what you're thinking: That Aaron, he's all wet!
=)
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Homes for Sale in Kyle, TX; Buda, TX; Austin, TX; Hill Country, TX; Dripping Springs, TX; Bastrop, TX; Hays County, TX; Travis County, TX; Buy or Sell Real Estate in Central Texas with Aaron Vaughn.
Whether working for Buyers or Sellers, deal-making skills are in my blood. I have negotiated over $40 million in MLS and other real estate deals and over $200 million in vendor contracts in my career.
My career in real estate began in the early 1990s as a residential homebuilder in the Pacific Northwest working with a small custom builder before starting my own company. I built houses and developed some land on a part-time basis while working full time in an unrelated career.
It was always my driving ambition to be the best homebuilder.
I sought out the right mentors and immersed myself in the details and processes, eventually creating a speculative homebuilding company with a partner. That company grew quickly, and I eventually sold my shares and started a small, high-end, solely-owned homebuilding company.
My wife, Sherry, quit her full-time job of 20 years at a local engineering company to run the office. The building boom of the mid-2000s was great for us. But eventually the market downturn forced us to make some big decisions.
We had visited family in 2001 in Austin and fell in love with the area — especially the sunshine and friendly people. We moved here in 2008 and have enjoyed becoming part of the community. There is so much to do here, and we're just 15 minutes from downtown Austin.
Great places to hunt, fish, and boat abound in the area. Among my favorite places? Hill Country/Dripping Springs. A wonderful town!
Our home is in nearby Kyle, bordering the town of Buda.
I love helping people who are relocating to Austin, because I did it myself and all the newness of everything is still fresh in my mind. Central Texas is a wonderful place to call home. There are so many choices -- Austin offers the best of urban sophistication and modern living, or you can choose to live on a 1,000-acre ranch within 20 minutes of downtown. Choices -- Central Texas has plenty!
Real estate is a relationship business — a people business — on both sides of the contract. I conduct business in a fair and ethical manner. Whether you are a client or another REALTOR®, I will treat you the way I want to be treated — with fairness and respect.
The Vaughn Family Home Team — We Specialize in YOU!
I don't specialize in new homes. Or resales. Or Condos. Or even those relocating to beautiful Austin. I specialize in true customer service. In clients. In you!
When you are my client, I provide the ultimate customer service experience. We are partners. I learn your wants, need, and goals and do whatever I can to bring your dreams to fruition. I bring my expertise to the table, and take responsibility for my actions.
If you have a client that is being relocated to Central Texas, refer them to Aaron Vaughn and The Vaughn Family Home Team. You can be assured that I will take care of them. Referral fees gladly paid without hesitation or headaches!
Send them my way and trust they will be treated correctly and your brand will be protected.
In addition, I am a member of Austin Board of REALTORS®, the Texas Association of REALTORS®, and the National Association of REALTORS®, which binds me to a strict and ethical Code of Conduct to which I happily and eagerly abide.
My Old Builder Contract for Subcontractors Below, Trade Specific
ROOFING: Installation must include 15-lb. felt (30 lb. felt for concrete tile applications), all required flashing, “turtle” vents, roofing, and all other materials and labor required to do a complete roof installation.
Hole cuts for vents provided by others. Subcontractor must follow any shear nailing requirements and ensure that its workers are following all state and federal mandated safety regulations. Subcontractor must remove all roofing-related waste materials from jobsite daily, except concrete tile, which will be left in “bury” piles.
PLUMBING: Subcontractor to obtain all inspections and approvals on a timely basis; GC will be responsible for sewer tap fees, water tap fees and water meter fees; all supply piping to be type L copper (or better if required by code); all drain, waste and vent piping to be plastic unless other material is required by code; all fixtures to be provided by subcontractor to specifications required by GC; two frost-free hose bibs; one in front and one in rear; washer hose bibs: hot and cold water located as per plan.
If laundry is located on first floor, the installation of a wall box is standard; all vent stacks to be flashed at roof; subcontractor to provide blocking for all wall-hung lavatories; all tubs to be protected with plastic tub liner or cardboard after installation; shut-off valve to be installed at supply of all fixtures; dishwasher to be installed plumb, level and properly secured to countertop supplied by GC; A condensate drain is to be installed within 18” of furnace for air conditioning or heat pump as standard; installation of water meter valve is standard procedure where applicable; house to be left broom clean after rough and finish.
Subcontractor to remove from jobsite and dispose of all debris; showers to be installed with neoprene pan as standard.
HVAC: Standing pilot gas furnace is standard; floor supply and high wall cold air returns as standard equipment to be sized to maintain 70º inside temperature at -5º and 90º F; Subcontractor to furnish jobsite delivery and installation of all materials; subcontractor responsible for all low-voltage wiring; electrician will supply primary wiring to furnace and disconnect and pigtails to condenser. Subcontractor is responsible for hook-up and start up; all baths to be vented; dryer vent is standard; thermostat to be installed by furnace at the time of furnace installation; gas hot water tank, 40 gallon to 80 gallon, to be verified with builder prior to rough-in.
ELECTRICAL: Ensure construction supervisor approves electrical plan; walk house with construction supervisor; supply all rough-in work and trim-out work; ensure hook-up of permanent power to house and call for all required inspections; inspect all fixtures before beginning install to ensure they are unbroken and in new condition.
INSULATION: All insulation to be installed to minimum code, except powder rooms in living areas are standard with soundproofing batts material; all vapor barriers to be installed toward conditioned space; Insulation not to be compacted or compressed in any stud cavity; insulation to be placed behind outlet boxes and cut out neatly to fit snugly around outlet boxes. Do not compress; insulation to be split where electrical wiring intrudes into stud cavity and inserted both behind and in front of wire.
Do not compress against wire; ensure that there are no voids, spaces or gaps between framing and insulation; place insulation between window frame and framing; place insulation around all piping, beams, ducts, vents and electrical outlets in exterior walls and firewalls or framing to unconditioned spaces; piping and vents through firewall to be sealed with caulk; insulation (batts) to be installed under heat run in garage ceiling, keeping heat run to conditioned space; areas over chimney chases, stairwell rake and bulkheads must be blocked at underside of truss to allow even depth and full coverage in attic.
Blocking material must be adequate to support the ceiling insulation. All scraps and debris to be removed from jobsite and house left broom clean.
DRYWALL: All ceilings: 5/8” gypsum ceiling board; garage fire walls: 5/8” (Type X) gypsum board, doubled on garage ceilings per code where required; subcontractor to ensure compliance with building code where different from standard; any studs, sheathing or windows removed for easier access are to be replaced; stock perpendicular to floor joists; sidewall: Nailed or screwed in accordance with manufacturer’s recommendation; ceilings: fasteners may be nails or screws; however, screws are preferable.
Two sets of two fasteners in the field and one fastener on each end; wallboard adhesive to be used on ceilings and interior walls; board to be held 1/2” above floor; use metal bead on all drywall edges; factory edge to be placed at rim of bath tub and shower stall receptors; all openings for electrical boxes and plumbing lines to be cut neat and close; all openings for recessed medicine cabinets and access panels to be cut neat and close; remove all scraps and debris from jobsite and leave house broom clean; all fire walls to be tight with no voids; waterproof board to be used in tub and shower areas. Vaulted ceilings: leave expansion joint and use corner beads, double taped, to help avoid cracking at peaks; all flat work to receive fill, tape, bed and skim coat. All angles to receive tape and bed coat on each side of angle; all corner beads to receive three (3) coats and all intersecting corner beads to be taped at corner; all nails to have three (3) spot coats; all mudded areas to be sanded; garages, ceilings and closet walls to be stippled; all piping, ducts and beams through fire wall to be taped and sealed; Subcontractor shall prevent spilling of drywall mud or stipple on floors. Subcontractor is responsible for leaving floors clean and ready for the installation of carpet or tile underlayment.
This includes scraping floors in the house and garage. Complete papering of all floors, including the stairs and garage areas, is mandatory prior to taping; securely cover all tub and showers to prevent damage.
TRIM CARPENTRY: Trim carpentry to be completed according to plans, specifications and selection sheets as provided by GC; finished trim to include the following as applicable: Kitchen and vanity cabinets and countertops plus all associated scothia, valance, hardware, panel boards, fillers, etc.; swinging doors, pocket doors, bifolds and all associated hardware, door bumps and screens; fireplace mantel per GC details; kneewall capping, spindles, hand rails and railings as per plan; crown molding, chair rail and decorative panels as detailed by GC; base, casing and window stop or sill as required; medicine cabinets, towel bars and paper holders per GC’s instructions; attic and plumbing access panels; bookcases, shelves, etc., per selection sheet; Subcontractor to provide all materials including construction adhesive required for kitchen and vanity cabinets and closet shelving installations, and to provide all fasteners such as, but not limited to, wood glue, clear and white silicone caulking, screws, bolts and nails; Subcontractor is responsible to ensure that the house is secured any time he leaves the jobsite. Only the highest standard of quality workmanship is acceptable.
Sloppy work habits, poorly fitted doors and cabinets, hammer marks, open miters, excessive pencil markings, too few or too many nails and bad fits will not be accepted; all kitchen, vanity and cabinet tops to be covered and taped with neatly cut cardboard immediately after installation; do not install damaged goods; cabinets to be checked against selection sheet and kitchen and vanity layout prior to installation.
Color-matched nails are mandatory with the application of factory-prefinished trim; all backsplashes to be set with silicone caulking.
Kitchen and vanity tops are to be installed first so that finish plumbing can be completed simultaneously. Cutouts for sinks and lavatories are the responsibility of the Subcontractor; at least one return trip is expected as standard to re-align doors after paint and carpet are installed and to complete any miscellaneous work; house is to be left broom clean at all times with debris placed in GC-stated location and excess trim neatly stacked in garage.
FLATWORK: Ensure ground is properly tamped and ready; provide rebar where necessary; ensure concrete is properly mixed and of excellent quality and proper sack-count for job; notify GC if ground conditions are such that doing proper job is hampered.
PAINTING: Subcontractor must provide touch-up kit in professional packaging for the homeowner to be left in the garage during last visit to jobsite; the quality of Subcontractor work is measured using the following criteria:
Preparation: Surface properly prepared; application: Quality and neatness of finish and viscosity of paint; coverage:
Complete coverage with no drips; two coats all surfaces-back roll; caulk all joints and siding drops at concrete walls; repair any and all dents in metal doors before painting; remove factory-installed caulk from bottom of jambs and thresholds and any other location; spray paint garage and exterior doors; remove caulk from metal thresholds; interior woodwork:
Sand thoroughly and putty smooth nail holes; caulk all joints if painted woodwork; prime raw wood before second coat; sand all doors including edges; if stained, apply satin/semi-gloss finish. Apply enough finish regardless of number of coats to give a proper and adequate finish; if wood is painted, sand out appearance of finger joints; provide touch up as needed, including touch up of sheetrock nail pops up to one (1) year after homeowner occupies premises; seal all wood thresholds with UV varnish; clean up all misplaced paints; if applicable, caulk baseboard to ceramic tile; caulk baseboard in garage to concrete wall and floor; provide our office with list of brand, name and number of paint used; paint fireplace surrounds; caulk sheetrock wraps at windows; before submitting invoices, call GC for walk-through and approval of invoice; these specifications are to be viewed as minimum specifications because of the varied coverage of different brands of paint.
It may take more coats than specified to provide adequate coverage. Please plan for this. Watering down of paint is not allowed.
CLEANING: Clean all windows, exterior and interior, including sills. Scrape excess paint from glass with razor blades.
Install all window grills and screens; remove plastic wrapping from and wipe down all doors, exterior and interior.
Wipe down all base and casing; clean all vanities, kitchen cabinets and countertops. Clean all mirrors and medicine cabinets; clean all tubs, showers, sink bowls and appliances; wipe down all balusters, hand rails and room dividers; remove all finger and hand prints.
Wash all resilient floors; vacuum carpet; remove all miscellaneous debris from jobsite; clean and wipe down furnace and hot water heater; clean and vacuum all heating boots in floor; hose down, scrape and brush clean the garage floor; notify GC whenever damaged items are found during cleaning.
Feel free to use this for your next project!
A REALTOR® may ask you to do some things that you really don't want to do to in order to get you moved into your new home as quickly as possible.
When REALTORS® advise you about what you can do to make the transaction work, they are acting as part coach and part business consultant. If you find the house you love and want to "sleep on" the decision for a few days, the Realtor knows that you run the risk of losing the house. If you are inclined to complicate your offer with clauses that may make the contract unattractive to the sellers, the agent may ask you to consider some modifications. Should you call the week before the closing with an attack of "buyer's remorse", your agent knows the cure. Following your Realtor's suggestions will increase your chances for a successful move!
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"Few things in life are free", right? One thing is still free — the guidance and assistance of a real estate sales professional for home buyers. In the traditional real estate sales transaction, it is the seller who pays the commission that is divided among the various sales professionals involved in the transaction when the home is sold.
You get several free services from the REALTOR®: 1) Target marketing which gives you quick, precise targeting of homes you want, in a price range you can afford. 2) Loan pre-qualification. This saves you much time and the potential disappointment of finding the perfect house (which you can't afford). 3) Guidance in obtaining the best mortgage terms. The marketing professional knows that if there is no financing, there is no purchase. Most REALTORS® have become quite knowledgeable in the mortgage market. Another old saying is "The best things in life are free."
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Are you still writing those checks every month to keep a roof over your head, but which don't gain you any equity? If you are still renting because you think you still need a fortune to get into your own home, you should investigate today's real estate market.
Interest rates are still low, which means very affordable payments, perhaps in the range of your current monthly rent. Qualifying for a loan was never easier, especially since lenders have increased in large numbers and are competing for your business. Even if you couldn't qualify to buy a home just a few years ago, you may be able to qualify today. Home prices today are relatively stable, so you might be surprised at the number of homes available in your price range. There are a number of government programs and mortgage packages which require small down payments, in the three to five percent range--and we haven't even started talking about the tax advantages! Think about it the next time you write a rent check.
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Most buyers want a home that is in tip-top condition and ready for them to occupy, but many homes go for bargain prices because they need work. Buyers love "fixer-uppers" for the obvious reasons: the price and the satisfaction of designing something attractive. Whether you are buying the property for yourself or as an investment, choose a house that is in a good location and structurally sound. It should be priced enough below market value (usually 25%) to allow plenty of room for a profitable re-sale after the work is completed.
It is important to educate yourself before taking on such a project. For example, inexpensive cosmetic improvements often give the greatest return -- paint will increase the value three times for every dollar invested. Landscaping, carpeting, and light fixtures are also relatively inexpensive improvements. Expensive structural improvements, such as a new roof, plumbing, wiring, or foundation repairs, usually add very little to the market value of a home.
Remodeling a kitchen will rarely add more than the cost, but new appliances usually give a fine return. An extra bathroom is the best renovation from an investment point of view, often giving twice its cost in added value; the worst investment is a swimming pool.
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The REALTOR® calls with great news! Your offer has just been accepted. Congratulations -- you are about to become a homeowner!
Your initial euphoria may be short-lived, however, as you begin to have second thoughts about the purchase. First, it's the mortgage. It seems like so much money, and it will take thirty years to pay for it. You look over the cash you will need for the closing and feel like you will never be able to afford to dine out again! Finally, you stare at the inspector's report and convince yourself that the roof will blow off and every major system will fail the day after you move in. You're in a frenzy. You ask yourself, "What have I gotten into?"
The best thing to do if you begin having "second" thoughts is just relax! These feelings are so common that they have even been given a name — "Buyer's Remorse." "Buyer's Remorse" is almost always a temporary malady, but call your REALTOR® if you are having an extreme attack. We have experience in helping our clients through the home-buying jitters.
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New homes typically have a higher sales price than comparable existing homes, and buyers are usually willing to spend more on a new home because of lower maintenance costs. Builders' warranties on new homes, along with a new roof, appliances, and major systems, usually make major repairs unnecessary and help to counter a slower initial rate of appreciation.
A 1991 Census Bureau Housing Survey suggests that operating costs are lowest for brand new homes, slightly higher for relatively new existing homes, but lower on average for older existing homes. Operating costs per square foot of living space, however, are consistently higher for progressively older existing homes. Utility costs represent the largest factor in operating costs. Energy consumption per square foot depends on the size of the home, the insulation and quality of the windows, air leakage and the efficiency of the furnace.
New homes require fewer expenditures for routine maintenance. The cost of maintenance first increases with age, then declines, so you will generally spend less maintaining a home built before 1960 than for a home built between 1970 and 1975.
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Many home buyers today are investing in a professional structural inspection before they finalize their purchase of a home. You should choose an inspector carefully and be prepared to learn important facts about your new home that could save you money.
When you have a ratified sales agreement, the Realtor will set up an appointment for you to see the home with the inspector. Bring a notebook, even though you will get a written report of the inspection. Write down any questions or concerns that may occur to you as you tour the house, such as cracks in the walls, spots on the ceiling, or noises in the air conditioning system. And remember that no house is perfect. You should come away from the inspection with a good understanding of what you are buying and how much the maintenance will cost.
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My Old Builder Contract for Subcontractors Below, In Parts
1 INSURANCE: Prior to the start of work, Subcontractor should procure, and maintain throughout the work, Workers' Compensation Insurance, employers’ liability insurance, and comprehensive general liability insurance in amounts satisfactory under state law and/or GC. GC must receive Subcontractor’s Certificate of Insurance, naming GENERAL CONTRACTOR as Additional Insured, prior to Subcontractor performing any work or GC making any payments to Subcontractor. Minimum general liability insurance coverage required by GC is: $500K per occurrence, $1 million general aggregate.
2 PROPOSAL INFORMATION: Subcontractor bid will be considered to include all items for the work you are bidding unless your bid accurately describes what you intend to delete on Page One.
3 MANNER AND SCHEDULING OF WORK: All work is to be done in a prompt, thorough and workmanlike manner and following the “SCOPE OF WORK” to the satisfaction of GC, according to plans, specifications, standards of workmanship and acceptability to the building officials who inspect the work as well as the GC. Any work not meeting the above requirements will be promptly corrected by Subcontractor at his expense. The work also includes the furnishing by Subcontractor of all necessary tools, equipment, supervision, machinery, scaffolding and the incidentals thereto. Time is of the essence. Subcontractor shall comply with GC’s work schedule, recognizing that changes may be made in the work schedule and agrees to comply with such changes without additional compensation. Subcontractor shall coordinate its work with all other subcontractors and suppliers on the project so as not to delay or damage their performance on the project. In no event will the Subcontractor seek or be entitled to damage for delay. Subcontractor’s sole remedy for delay will be a reasonable extension of time to complete the work. GC may direct changes to Subcontractor’s work. Adjustments in the contract shall be set forth in a change order approved by GC.
4 TRASH AND SAFETY: Subcontractor will keep a neat and clean jobsite, free of any safety hazards. Any waste material and trash shall be cleaned up, bagged or boxed, and disposed of in approved containers or stored in a site location dictated by GC. If GC must hire a cleaning crew to clean up after Subcontractor, then a minimum charge of $100 per day will be back-charged to Subcontractor. Subcontractor will have copies of a formal Safety Plan posted on the jobsite and will Indemnify and Hold Harmless GC from any and all OSHA claims or fines imposed on GC as a result of improper safety practice by Subcontractor.
5 MODIFICATIONS: Subcontractor, upon starting work, will inspect the work site and determine if the work site is ready. Should Subcontractor determine that additional costs are required, he must declare this before starting. GC will not accept back-charges for work unless given notice in advance. No modification of the terms of this agreement shall be binding on either party unless reduced to writing and signed by an authorized representative of GC.
6 ASSIGNMENT, PAYMENT AND LIEN RELEASES: No part of the work or other obligations herein may be assigned by the Subcontractor. Invoices for completed work and supplies received by the 25th of the month and approved by GC will be paid by the 10th of the following month subject to related terms on Page One of this Agreement. No billings accepted for incomplete work. Work that is incomplete as of 5 p.m. PT on the 25th must be invoiced the following month. If and when requested by GC, Subcontractor will provide GC with final lien releases from all people or firms supplying Subcontractor with labor and/or materials as well as Subcontractor payroll records before GC is obligated to make any payment to Subcontractor. Retainage is not regularly held, but 5- to 10-percent of all invoices may be held until satisfactory completion of work. No price increases allowed in any event prior to ninety (90) days written notice by Subcontractor and approved by GC.
7 WARRANTY: Subcontractor/Supplier warrants and agrees that both the material supplied and the work performed by Subcontractor comply with the plans, specifications, all applicable building codes, FHA/VA regulations and other governmental requirements. Subcontractor warrants the fitness for intended use and merchantability of all labor and materials supplied by Subcontractor and further agrees to perform all applicable FHA/VA or GC warranty work promptly and at Subcontractor’s expense for one full year after date possession is transferred from GC to Buyer(s) and/or according to terms of RWC insurance-backed homeowners’ warranty and/or Washington State statutes. Subcontractor warranties as set forth herein are in addition to all applicable statutory or implied warranties or any additional warranties applicable to the work performed and the materials used. Subcontractor warrants that the material used and labor supplied are of sufficient quality and construction standards that GC will not incur warranty claims for poor quality and workmanship. Subcontractor further agrees to indemnify and hold GC harmless for such poor quality unless expressly agreed in writing by GC.
8 DEFAULT AND REMEDIES: Any of the following acts, actions or inactions by Subcontractor shall constitute a material default in Subcontractor’s performance under this agreement: (A) Subcontractor’s failure to perform the work under this contract or to furnish material in connection, therewith, in an expeditious and efficient manner or to keep a reasonable number of employees working at all times on said work or to keep a reasonable number and type of tools and equipment on the job; (B) Subcontractor’s failure to pay any of its bills when due, whether labor or materials; (C) Subcontractor is or is about to become insolvent, bankrupt or, in the opinion of GC, financially unable to complete the contract in accordance with its terms; (D) Subcontractor’s failure to comply with any of the terms of this contract. In the event of such default, within forty-eight hours from the time of dispatch of said notice, GC may without further notice engage other help or subcontractors. The amount paid to such other subcontractors or incurred by GC including reasonable overhead, profit and attorneys fees in completing the work to be done under this agreement shall be deducted from any sums payable to Subcontractor. Should said amount exceed the balance due to Subcontractor, then in the event of any default as specified herein, the payment schedule specified in this contract shall be of no force and effect, and no moneys whatsoever shall be due to Subcontractor until the whole of the work to be performed under this contract has been completed to GC’s satisfaction. For the purpose of completing such work, GC is hereby authorized to take possession of and use all materials on the jobsite as well as materials in the course of preparation wherever located. Nothing in this paragraph shall limit any other rights GC has under any provision of law or this contract.
9 CONFLICT IN DUAL SEPARATE PROPOSALS: When a separate work proposal is submitted by Subcontractor and such proposal is referred to in this agreement, then the price and terms that are in this agreement shall prevail under all circumstances.
10 TERMS OF AGREEMENT: The Terms and Conditions of this agreement shall remain in effect for all future work performed by Subcontractor for GC unless a specific agreement signed by both parties is entered into to change this ongoing condition of this Subcontractor Proposal and Agreement and Statement of Terms and Conditions.
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"Thank you so much, Aaron, for making our home purchase the stuff of dreams! We really appreciate your attention to detail, you caring, compassion, and willingness to make things work for us." (Couple in Forest Creek neighborhood)
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"Wow. Thanks for all your hard work. Thanks for returning our calls. Thanks for your uncanny memory. And thanks most of all for caring about what you do!" (Couple in Panorama neighborhood)
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"Weather delays were putting my closing date -- and my rate lock -- in danger. But you rolled up your sleeves and made sure the work got done right and we closed on time. You saved my dream." (Buyer in Forest Creek neighborhood)
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"Aaron, your wacky sense of humor belies the serious professional you really are. And it's obvious you care. You know your stuff! I would not hesitate to recommend you to family and friends alike." (Husband of family in Cougar Ridge neighborhood)
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"Why are you so mean?! I don't understand why you're leaving me. Sure, I'm a little shrill and whiny. Sure, I push your buttons. And no, I cannot cook worth a darn! But who cares, you always cook anyway. And, NO, you can't have the blue couch or the computer! And you have to pay for the divorce, since you're the one who wants it! You suck!" (My ex-wife in a little note several years ago)
And check out this great information ...
OPERATING YOUR MECHANICAL VENTILATION SYSTEM
If you have recently completed an extensive remodel, built an addition, or moved into a new home, any of which were permitted for construction after July 1, 1991, your home includes a mechanical system that may be unfamiliar to you. This is the mechanical ventilation system. This brochure offers some tips for operating your home’s system effectively.
Two Jobs
The mechanical ventilation system actually has two distinct, yet related, jobs to do. In both cases, the goal is to replace stale indoor air with fresh air from outdoors.
Spot Ventilation
First, your system must remove moisture or odor-laden air from rooms like the bathroom, kitchen, laundry room, or any other room where water vapor is produced. Exhausting stale air right at the spot where moisture or odors are generated improves the ventilation system’s effectiveness. This is called “spot ventilation.”
The Washington Ventilation and Indoor Air Quality Code requires fans in bathrooms or laundry rooms be able to exhaust at least 50 cubic feet per minute (cfm). Your kitchen fan must be able to exhaust 100 cfm. If you have a spa room or a swimming pool, proper ventilation should be sized according to good engineering practice rather than using the bathroom fan size. In fact, if the bathroom is larger than 75 square feet, the Uniform Building Code (UBC) would recommend a fan larger than 50 cfm.
Whole House Ventilation
The ventilation system’s second job is to ensure regular removal of stale air and circulation of fresh air throughout the house, independent of the weather. This is called “whole house ventilation.”
There are two ways whole house ventilation is usually accomplished.
If your home has a forced air furnace or heat pump, the ventilation is probably provided through the ductwork. If your home does not have heating ducts, ventilation is provided by centrally located exhaust fan and “make-up air ports” in your outside walls or the tops of windows.
Sometimes this exhaust fan also serves as a bathroom fan.
The whole house system should run automatically, but you can manually turn it on under special conditions, such as when smokers are present, during parties, or when new carpets, furniture, or freshly dry-cleaned clothing are brought in.
Operating Your Spot Fans
· Turn on the spot fan whenever moisture or odors are produced in the room, such as when cooking or showering.
· Since moisture vapor and odors tend to linger, it is a good idea to let the fan continue running for at least 15 to 20 minutes after the activity producing them has stopped.
· If you have a simple on/off switch for a control, replace it with and electronic or a spring-loaded mechanical “twist” timer. A timer is more convenient because it doesn’t require you to return to shut off the fan and it will turn the fan off in case you forget.
Operating Your Whole House Ventilation
The most common automatic control for the whole house system is a 24-hour or 7-day timer. This timer turns on the furnace fan or the exhaust fan at regular intervals. It also has the flexibility to leave the system off for a large block of time when no one is home.
To set the mechanical timer, shift the trip pins on the dial to turn the fan on and off. The first pin turns the fan on; the second turns it off; the third, on; the fourth, off, and so forth.
Some timers will only allow two settings per day; other can give you up to forty-eight. Electronic times do not have trip pins to set. Instead you must program the settings through a series of button pushes – much as you would set a digital watch or a VCR.
When to Ventilate
· Observe when the most people are home or the most activity occurs. Then set the timer to provide ventilation at those times.
· Don’t run whole house ventilation at the same time as spot ventilation, unless the spot fan is not doing its job.
· Several shorter ventilation periods spread over the occupancy time will provide better air quality than an equal, single, long period.
· Make sure at least one of those periods is during the night. Night is usually when people are home and the thermostats are turned down – two conditions which encourage higher relative humidity in the home.
· If there are regular times when odors or moisture are generated (e.g. a weekly Cub Scout Pack meeting), make sure the ventilation system has a corresponding setting.
Also, here is my old Builder's Warranty details form; use if you wish!
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