Brian Smith

Pesticides

by Nick Gromicko and Rob London, and Brian Smith

Pesticides are poisons designed to kill a variety of plants and animals, such as insects (insecticides), weeds (herbicides), and mold or fungus (fungicides). They are each composed of an inert carrier and a pest-specific active ingredient, both of which are toxic to humans and pets. Human Exposure Pesticides may enter the body in one of the following three ways, which are ordered from least to most dangerous:

• absorbed through the skin. People can get pesticide on their skin because it is likely to splash or mist while mixing, loading or applying the chemicals. Skin contact may also occur while touching protective clothing, a piece of equipment, or any other surface that was exposed to pesticides;
• swallowed. Numerous reports exist of people accidentally drinking or eating a pesticide that had been placed in an unlabelled container, or by children whose access was not adequately child-proofed. Toxic substances can also be ingested when eating or smoking near those who have handled the chemicals; and
• inhaled. Powders, airborne droplets and vapors can easily be inhaled. Low-pressure applications present a relatively limited hazard because most of the droplets are too large and heavy to remain in the air. High-pressure applications, however, are particularly dangerous because the droplets are small enough that they can be carried by winds for considerable distances. Pesticides with a high inhalation hazard should have a label that instructs the user to use a respirator.

Health Effects and Symptoms of Pesticide Exposure The health effects of pesticides are specific to their ingredients. Organophosphates and carbamates, for instance, affect the nervous system, while others may irritate the skin and eyes, influence the body's hormone or endocrine system, and even cause cancer. Symptoms of pesticide exposure may appear immediately and disappear soon after exposure has ceased, or they may take a long time -- even years -- to develop. Specific symptoms include, but are not limited to, the following.

Acute symptoms include:

• mild poisoning: irritation of the nose, throat, eyes or skin, headache, dizziness, loss of appetite, thirst, nausea, diarrhea, sweating, weakness or fatigue, restlessness, nervousness, changes in mood, and/or insomnia;
• moderate poisoning: vomiting, excessive salivation, coughing, constriction of the throat and chest, abdominal cramps, blurred vision, rapid pulse, excessive perspiration, profound weakness, trembling, muscular incoordination, and/or mental confusion;
• severe poisoning: inability to breathe, small or pinpoint pupils, chemical burns, uncontrollable muscular twitching, unconsciousness, and/or death.

Long-term health effects include:

• cancers (lung, brain, testicular, lymphoma, leukemia);
• spontaneous abortions and stillbirths;
• genetic damage;
• infertility, including lowered sperm count;
• liver and pancreatic damage;
• neuropathy; and
• disturbances to immune systems (including minor ones, such as asthma and allergies).

Drift Only a small percentage of insecticides and herbicides actually reach their intended destinations. The bulk of the chemicals find their way to other places, such as the air, water, food sources, and non-targeted insect/animal species. People and pets track pesticide residue into the house where it may settle on laundry, furniture, toys, and virtually anyplace else. Most runs off into water or dissipates in the air, where it may endanger the environment. This incidential or unintended travel is known as "drift." Fumigant pesticides used outdoors have the potential to travel many miles from their intended targets, drifting through the air into schools, homes, parks and playgrounds. Pesticide drift has resulted in cases of mass hospitalizations, such as in 2007 when 121 workers in Nevada were rushed to the hospital after fumigant pesticide traveled ¼-mile from its intended target. Home gardens usually require significantly less pesticide than large-scale agriculture, although the latter is usually held to safety standards that gardeners are more likely to ignore. Warning Labels on Pesticides

Manufacturers of pesticides create warning labels for their products by considering how harmful the chemical would be through each route of entry into the body. The signal word that applies to the most dangerous route of entry is the one that goes on the label. Any one of the following signal words should appear on pesticide warning labels:

• CAUTION: slightly hazardous by any of the routes of entry.
• WARNING: moderately hazardous by at least one route of entry.
• DANGER: highly hazardous by at least one route of entry. The word "DANGER" alone means that the pesticide's greatest hazard is that it can severely irritate your skin or your eyes, or both. If the pesticide has the word "DANGER" plus a skull-and-crossbones symbol, it means that the pesticide is highly toxic through one or more routes of entry. Funginex®, for instance, has the signal word "DANGER" on its label because it is a severe eye irritant. If it were highly toxic through oral, dermal or inhalation exposure, it would have the word "POISON" and the skull-and-crossbones symbol.

Labels should also contain a "hazard to humans" section and a "personal protective equipment" section, in which users can learn which kinds of exposures the signal word for that particular pesticide refers to.

Safety Tips:

• Limit termite infestation -- and the necessity for pesticide use -- by building with steel, concrete or brick. Borate-treated lumber will repel carpenter ants and termites.
• Plant disease-resistant plants around the home.
• Always keep these chemicals away from children.
• If you must handle pesticides, wear gloves and long sleeves, and avoid breathing the vapors.
• Carefully follow directions with regard to concentration, protective gear, and restricting access to areas that have been treated.
• Always ventilate the area well after use.
• Mix or dilute chemicals outdoors, if possible.
• Dispose of unwanted pesticides safely, and store partially-used containers outside the living space.
• Leather items contaminated with pesticides should be discarded. According to Montana State University, when leather watch bands, boots and gloves are worn and become damp, the person will again be exposed to the pesticide.
• Address any additional concerns with your InterNACHI inspector during your next scheduled inspection.

Protect Your Property From Water Damage

Water may be essential to life, but, as a destructive force, water can diminish the value of your home or building. Homes as well as commercial buildings can suffer water damage that results in increased maintenance costs, a decrease in the value of the property, lowered productivity, and potential liability associated with a decline in indoor air quality. The best way to protect against this potential loss is to ensure that the building components which enclose the structure, known as the building envelope, are water-resistant. Also, you will want to ensure that manufacturing processes, if present, do not allow excess water to accumulate. Finally, make sure that the plumbing and ventilation systems, which can be quite complicated in buildings, operate efficiently and are well-maintained. This article provides some basic steps for identifying and eliminating potentially damaging excess moisture. Identify and Repair All Leaks and Cracks The following are common building-related sources of water intrusion:

• windows and doors: Check for leaks around your windows, storefront systems and doors.
• roof: Improper drainage systems and roof sloping reduce roof life and become a primary source of moisture intrusion. Leaks are also common around vents for exhaust or plumbing, rooftop air-conditioning units, or other specialized equipment.
• foundation and exterior walls: Seal any cracks and holes in exterior walls, joints and foundations. These often develop as a naturally occurring byproduct of differential soil settlement.
• plumbing: Check for leaking plumbing fixtures, dripping pipes (including fire sprinkler systems), clogged drains (both interior and exterior), defective water drainage systems and damaged manufacturing equipment.
• ventilation, heating and air conditioning (HVAC) systems: Numerous types, some very sophisticated, are a crucial component to maintaining a healthy, comfortable work environment. They are comprised of a number of components (including chilled water piping and condensation drains) that can directly contribute to excessive moisture in the work environment. In addition, in humid climates, one of the functions of the system is to reduce the ambient air moisture level (relative humidity) throughout the building. An improperly operating HVAC system will not perform this function.

Prevent Water Intrusion Through Good Inspection and Maintenance Programs Hire a qualified InterNACHI inspector to perform an inspection of the following elements of your building to ensure that they remain in good condition:

• flashings and sealants: Flashing, which is typically a thin metal strip found around doors, windows and roofs, are designed to prevent water intrusion in spaces where two building materials come together. Sealants and caulking are specifically applied to prevent moisture intrusion at building joints. Both must be maintained and in good condition.
• vents: All vents should have appropriate hoods, exhaust to the exterior, and be in good working order.
• Review the use of manufacturing equipment that may include water for processing or cooling. Ensure wastewater drains adequately away, with no spillage. Check for condensation around hot or cold materials or heat-transfer equipment.
• HVAC systems are much more complicated in commercial buildings. Check for leakage in supply and return water lines, pumps, air handlers and other components. Drain lines should be clean and clear of obstructions. Ductwork should be insulated to prevent condensation on exterior surfaces.
• humidity: Except in specialized facilities, the relative humidity in your building should be between 30% and 50%. Condensation on windows, wet stains on walls and ceilings, and musty smells are signs that relative humidity may be high. If you are concerned about the humidity level in your building, consult with a mechanical engineer, contractor or air-conditioning repair company to determine if your HVAC system is properly sized and in good working order. A mechanical engineer should be consulted when renovations to interior spaces take place.
• moist areas: Regularly clean off, then dry all surfaces where moisture frequently collects.
• expansion joints: Expansion joints are materials between bricks, pipes and other building materials that absorb movement. If expansion joints are not in good condition, water intrusion can occur.

Protection From Water Damage

• interior finish materials: Replace drywall, plaster, carpet and stained or water-damaged ceiling tiles. These are not only good evidence of a moisture intrusion problem, but can lead to deterioration of the work environment, if they remain over time.
• exterior walls: Exterior walls are generally comprised of a number of materials combined into a wall assembly. When properly designed and constructed, the assembly is the first line of defense between water and the interior of your building. It is essential that they be maintained properly (including regular refinishing and/or resealing with the correct materials).
• storage areas: Storage areas should be kept clean. Allow air to circulate to prevent potential moisture accumulation.

Act Quickly if Water Intrusion Occurs Label shut-off valves so that the water supply can be easily closed in the event of a plumbing leak. If water intrusion does occur, you can minimize the damage by addressing the problem quickly and thoroughly. Immediately remove standing water and all moist materials, and consult with a building professional. Should your building become damaged by a catastrophic event, such as fire, flood or storm, take appropriate action to prevent further water damage, once it is safe to do so. This may include boarding up damaged windows, covering a damaged roof with plastic sheeting, and/or removing wet materials and supplies. Fast action on your part will help minimize the time and expense for repairs, resulting in a faster recovery.

Lead Facts

Did you know the following facts about lead? FACT: Lead exposure can harm young children and babies even before they are born. FACT: Even children who seem healthy can have high levels of lead in their bodies. FACT: You can get lead in your body by breathing or swallowing lead dust, or by eating soil or paint chips containing lead. FACT: You have many options for reducing lead hazards. In most cases, lead-based paint that is in good condition is not a hazard. FACT: Removing lead-based paint improperly can increase the danger to your family. If you think your home might have lead hazards, read on to learn about lead and some simple steps to protect your family.
Health Effects of Lead

• Childhood lead poisoning remains a major environmental health problem in the U.S.
• Even children who appear healthy can have dangerous levels of lead in their bodies.
• People can get lead in their body if they:
  • put their hands or other objects covered with lead dust in their mouths;
  • eat paint chips or soil that contains lead; or
  • breathe in lead dust, especially during renovations that disturb painted surfaces.

• Lead is even more dangerous to children than adults because:
  • babies and young children often put their hands and other objects in their mouths. These objects can have lead dust on them;
  • children's growing bodies can absorb more lead; and
  • children's brains and central nervous systems are more sensitive to the damaging effects of lead.

• If not detected early, children with high levels of lead in their bodies can suffer from:
  • damage to the brain and nervous system;
  • behavioral and learning problems (such as hyperactivity);
  • slowed growth;
  • hearing problems; and
  • headaches.

• Lead is also harmful to adults. Adults can suffer from:
  • difficulties during pregnancy;
  • other reproductive problems (in both men and women);
  • high blood pressure;
  • digestive problems;
  • nerve disorders;
  • memory and concentration problems; and
  • muscle and joint pain

Where is Lead Found?

In general, the older your home, the more likely it has lead-based paint.
Paint Many homes built before 1978 have lead-based paint. The federal government banned lead-based paint from housing in 1978. Some states stopped its use even earlier. Lead can be found:

• in homes in the city, country and suburbs;
• on apartments, single-family homes, and both private and public housing complexes;
• on the interior and exterior of the house;
• in the soil around a home. Soil can pick up lead from exterior paint and other sources, such as past use of leaded gas in cars;
• in household dust. Dust can pick up lead from deteriorating lead-based paint and from soil tracked into a home;
• in drinking water. Your home might have plumbing that uses lead pipes or lead solder. Call your local health department or water supplier to find out about testing your water. You cannot see, smell or taste lead, and boiling your water will not get rid of lead. If you think your plumbing might have lead in it:
  • Use only cold water for drinking and cooking.
  • Run water for 15 to 30 seconds before drinking it, especially if you have not used your water for a few hours.

• on the job. If you work with lead, you could bring it home on your hands or clothes. Shower and change clothes before coming home. Launder your work clothes separately from the rest of your family's clothes;
• in old (vintage or antique) painted toys and furniture;
• in food and liquids stored in lead crystal, lead-glazed pottery and porcelain;
• from lead smelters and other industries that release lead into the air;
• with hobbies that use lead, such as making pottery or stained glass, or refinishing furniture.
• in folk remedies that contain lead, such as "greta" and "azarcon" used to treat an upset stomach.

Where is Lead Likely to be a Hazard?

• Lead from paint chips, which you can see, and lead dust, which you can't always see, can be serious hazards.
• Peeling, chipping, chalking and cracking lead-based paint is a hazard and needs immediate attention.
• Lead-based paint may also be a hazard when found on surfaces that children can chew or that get a lot of wear-and-tear. These areas include:
  • windows and window sills;
  • doors and door frames;
  • stairs, railings and banisters; and
  • porches and fences.

Note: Lead-based paint that is in good condition is usually not a hazard.

• Lead dust can form when lead-based paint is dry-scraped, dry-sanded, or heated. Dust also forms when painted surfaces bump or rub together. Lead chips and dust can get on surfaces and objects that people touch. Settled lead dust can re-enter the air when people vacuum, sweep or walk through it.
• Lead in soil can be a hazard when children play in bare soil, or when people bring soil into the house on their shoes.

Checking Your Family and Home for Lead

• Have your children and home tested if you think your home has high levels of lead.
• Just knowing that a home has lead-based paint may not tell you if there is a hazard.

To reduce your child's exposure to lead, get your child checked, have your home tested (especially if your home has paint in poor condition and was built before 1978), and fix any hazards you may have. Your Family

• Children's blood lead levels tend to increase rapidly from 6 to 12 months of age, and tend to peak at 18 to 24 months of age.
• Consult your doctor for advice on testing your children. A simple blood test can detect high levels of lead. Blood tests are important for:
  • children at ages 1 to 2;
  • children and other family members who have been exposed to high levels of lead; and
  • children who should be tested under your state or local health screening plan.

Your doctor can explain what the test results mean and if more testing will be needed. Your Home You can get your home checked in one of two ways (or both):

• A paint inspection tells you the lead content of every different type of painted surface in your home. It won't tell you whether the paint is a hazard or how you should deal with it.
• A risk assessment tells you if there are any sources of serious lead exposure, such as peeling paint and lead dust. It also tells you what actions to take to address these hazards.

Have qualified professionals do the work. There are standards in place for certifying lead-based paint professionals to ensure that the work is done safely, reliably and effectively. Be sure to ask your InterNACHI inspector about lead paint during your next inspection. Trained professionals use a range of methods when checking your home, including:

• a vsual inspection of paint condition and location;
• a portable x-ray fluorescence (XRF) machine;
• lab tests of paint samples; and
• surface-dust tests.

Note: Home test kits for lead are available, but studies suggest that they are not always accurate. Consumers should not rely on these tests before doing renovations or to assure safety. What You Can Do to Protect Your Family If you suspect that your house has lead hazards, you can take some immediate steps to reduce your family's risk:

• If you rent, notify your landlord of peeling or chipping paint.
• Clean up paint chips immediately.
• Clean floors, window frames, window sills, and other surfaces weekly. Use a mop, sponge or paper towel with warm water and a general all-purpose cleaner, or a cleaner made specifically for lead.
  

REMEMBER: NEVER MIX AMMONIA AND BLEACH PRODUCTS TOGETHER, SINCE THEY CAN FORM A DANGEROUS GAS.

• Thoroughly rinse sponges and mop heads after cleaning dirty and dusty areas.
• Wash children's hands often, especially before they eat, and before nap time and bed time.
• Keep play areas clean. Wash bottles, pacifiers, toys and stuffed animals regularly.
• Keep children from chewing window sills and other painted surfaces.
• Clean or remove shoes before entering your home to avoid tracking in lead from soil.
• Make sure children eat nutritious, low-fat meals high in iron and calcium, such as spinach and dairy products. Children with good diets absorb less lead.

In addition to day-to-day cleaning and good nutrition, you can temporarily reduce lead hazards by taking actions such as repairing damaged amd painted surfaces, and by planting grass to cover soil with high lead levels. These actions, called "interim controls," are not permanent solutions and will need ongoing attention. To permanently remove lead hazards, you must hire a certified lead-abatement contractor. Abatement (or permanent hazard elimination) methods include removing, sealing or enclosing lead-based paint with special materials. Just painting over the hazard with regular paint is not enough. Always hire a person with special training for correcting lead problems -- someone who knows how to do this work safely and has the proper equipment to clean up thoroughly. Certified contractors will employ qualified workers and follow strict safety rules set by their state or the federal government. To be safe, hire an InterNACHI inspector trained in lead detection for your next inspection.
Are You Planning to Buy or Rent a Home Built Before 1978? Many houses and apartments built before 1978 have paint that contains lead (called lead-based paint). Lead from paint, chips and dust can pose serious health hazards if not taken care of properly. Federal law requires that individuals receive certain information before renting or buying pre-1978 housing.

• Residential Lead-Based Paint Disclosure Program
  • LANDLORDS have to disclose known information on lead-based paint and lead-based paint hazards before leases take effect. Leases must include a disclosure form about lead-based paint.
  • SELLERS have to disclose known information on lead-based paint and lead-based paint hazards before selling a house. Sales contracts must include a disclosure form about lead-based paint. Buyers have up to 10 days to check for lead hazards.

If not conducted properly, certain types of renovations can release lead from paint and dust into the air.

• Pre-Renovation Education Program (PRE)
  • RENOVATORS have to give you a pamphlet titled "Protect Your Family from Lead in Your Home" before starting work.
• Take precautions before your contractor or you begin remodeling or renovations that disturb painted surfaces (such as scraping off paint or tearing out walls).
  • Have the area tested for lead-based paint.
  • Do not use a belt-sander, propane torch, heat gun, dry scraper or dry sandpaper to remove lead-based paint. These actions create large amounts of lead dust and fumes.
  • Lead dust can remain in your home long after the work is done.
  • Temporarily move your family (especially children and pregnant women) out of the apartment or house until the work is done and the area is properly cleaned. If you can't move your family, at least completely seal off the work area.
  • If you have already completed renovations or remodeling that could have released lead-based paint or dust, get your young children tested and follow the steps outlined to protect your family.

Ten Tips to Speed Up Your Home Inspection

Sellers can speed their home inspection by following these suggestions. The inspection will go smoother, with fewer concerns to delay closing.

1. Confirm that water, electric and gas service are on, with gas pilot lights burning.
2. Ensure pets won't hinder the inspection. Ideally, they should be removed from the premises or secured outside. Tell your agent about any pets at home.
3. Replace burned-out light bulbs to avoid a "light is inoperable" report that may suggest an electrical problem.
4. Test smoke and carbon monoxide detectors, and replace dead batteries.
5. Clean or replace dirty HVAC air filters. They should fit securely.
6. Remove stored items, debris and wood from the foundation. These may be cited as "conducive conditions" for termites.
7. Remove items blocking access to HVAC equipment, electric service panels, water heaters, attics and crawlspaces.
8. Unlock areas the inspector must access: attic doors or hatches, electric service panels, closets, fence gates and crawlspaces.
9. Trim tree limbs to 10 feet from the roof, and shrubs from the house, to allow access.
10. Attend to broken or missing items such as doorknobs, locks and latches, windowpanes, screens and locks, gutters, downspouts and chimney caps.

Checking these areas before your home inspection is an investment in selling your property. Your real estate agent will thank you.

Household Hazards

This list of terms covers most of the common household dangers likely to be encountered by InterNACHI inspectors.

• algae: microorganisms that may grow to colonies in damp environments, including certain rooftops. They can discolor shingles; often described as "fungus."
  
  
• alligatoring: a condition of paint or aged asphalt brought about by the loss of volatile oils, and the oxidation caused by solar radiation; causes a coarse, "checking" pattern characterized by slipping of the new paint coating over the old coating to the extent that the old coating can be seen through the fissures. "Alligatoring" produces a pattern of cracks resembling an alligator hide, and is ultimately the result of the limited tolerance of paint or asphalt to thermal expansion and contraction.
  
  
• asbestos: a common form of magnesium silicate which was commonly used in various construction products because of its stability and resistance to fire. Asbestos exposure, caused by inhaling loose asbestos fibers, is associated with various forms of lung disease. Asbestos is the name given to certain inorganic minerals when they occur in fibrous form. Though fire-resistant, its extremely fine fibers are easily inhaled, and exposure to them over a period of years has been linked to cancers of the lung and the lung-cavity lining, and to asbestosis, a severe lung impairment. Asbestos is a naturally occurring mineral fiber sometimes found in older homes. It is hazardous to your health when a possibility exists of exposure to inhalable fibers. Homeowners should be alert for friable (readily crumbled or brittle) asbestos, and always seek professional advice in dealing with it.
  
  
• bleeding: the migration of a liquid to the surface of a component or into/onto an adjacent material.
  
  
• blister: an enclosed, raised spot evident on the surface of a building. They are mainly caused by the expansion of trapped air, water vapor, moisture or other gases.
  
  
• blue stain: a bluish or grayish discoloration of the sapwood caused the growth of certain mold-like fungi on the surface and in the interior of a piece, made possible by the same conditions that favor the growth of other fungi.
  
  
• bubbling: in glazing, open or closed pockets in a sealant caused by the release, production or expansion of gasses.
  
  
• buckling: the bending of a building material as a result of wear and tear, or contact with a substance such as water.
  
  
• carbon monoxide (CO): a colorless, odorless, highly poisonous gas formed by the incomplete combustion of carbon.
  
  
• cohesive failure: internal splitting of a compound resulting from over-stressing of the compound.
  
  
• condensation: water condensing on walls, ceiling and pipes; normal in areas of high humidity, usually controlled by ventilation or a dehumidifier.
  
  
• corrosion: the deterioration of metal by chemical or electrochemical reaction resulting from exposure to weathering, moisture, chemicals and other agents and media.
  
  
• crater: pit in the surface of concrete resulting from cracking of the mortar due to expansive forces associated with a particle of unsound aggregate or a contaminating material, such as wood or glass.
  
  
• crazing: a series of hairline cracks in the surface of weathered materials, having a web-like appearance; also, hairline cracks in pre-finished metals caused by bending or forming; see brake metal.
  
  
• cupping: a type of warping that causes boards to curl up at their edges.
  
  
• damp-proofing: a process used on concrete, masonry and stone surfaces to repel water, the main purpose of which is to prevent the coated surface from absorbing rainwater while still permitting moisture vapor to escape from the structure. Moisture vapor readily penetrates coatings of this type. Damp-proofing generally applies to surfaces above grade; waterproofing generally applies to surfaces below grade.
  
  
• decay: disintegration of wood and other substances through the action of fungi.
  
  
• distortion: alteration of viewed images caused by variations in glass flatness or in homogeneous portions within the glass; an inherent characteristic of heat-treated glass.
  
  
• drippage: bitumen material that drips through roof deck joints, or over the edge of a roof deck.
  
  
• dry rot: see fungal wood rot.
  
  
• feathering strips: tapered wood filler strips placed along the butt edges of old wood shingles to create a level surface when re-roofing over existing wood shingle roofs; aso called "horsefeathers."
  
  
• fungal wood rot: a common wood-destroying organism which develops when wood-containing material is exposed to moisture and poor air circulation for a long period of time (six-plus months); often and incorrectly referred to as "dry rot."
  
  
• fungi (wood): microscopic plants that live in damp wood and cause mold, stain and decay.
  
  
• incompatibility: descriptive of two or more materials which are not suitable to be used together.
  
  
• lead-based paint: Lead is a highly toxic metal that was used for many years in products found in and around homes. Lead may cause a range of health problems, from behavioral problems and learning disabilities, to seizures and death. Children age 6 and under are most at risk because their bodies are growing quickly.
  
  
• migration: spreading or creeping of a constituent of a compound onto/into adjacent surfaces; see bleeding.
  
  
• mud cracks: cracks developing from the normal shrinkage of an emulsion coating when applied too heavily.
  
  
• mushroom: an unacceptable occurrence when the top of a caisson concrete pier spreads out and hardens to become wider than the foundation's wall thickness.
  
  
• photo-oxidation: oxidation caused by rays of the sun.
  
  
• ponding: a condition where water stands on a roof for prolonged periods due to poor drainage and/or deflection of the deck.
  
  
• pop-out: see stucco pop-out.
  
  
• radon: a naturally-occurring, radioactive gas which is heavier than air and is common in many parts of the country. Radon gas exposure is associated with lung cancer. Mitigation measures may involve crawlspace and basement venting and various forms of vapor barriers.
  
  
• scrap out: the removal of all drywall material and debris after the home is "hung out" (installed) with drywall.
  
  
• seasoning: removing moisture from green wood in order to improve its serviceability.
  
  
• settlement: shifts in a structure, usually caused by freeze-thaw cycles underground.
  
  
• sludge: term for the waste material found in sump pump pits, septic systems and gutters.
  
  
• spalling: the chipping and flaking of concrete, bricks and other masonry where improper drainage and venting and freeze/thaw cycling exists.
  
  
• splitting: the formation of long cracks completely through a membrane. Splits are frequently associated with lack of allowance for expansion stresses. They can also be a result of deck deflection and a change in deck direction.
  
  
• ultraviolet degradation: a reduction in certain performance limits caused by exposure to ultraviolet light.
  
  
• UV rays: ultraviolet rays from the sun.
  
  
• veining: in roofing, the characteristic lines or "stretch marks" which develop during the aging process of soft bitumens.
  
  
• warping: any distortion in a material.
  
  
• water vapor: moisture existing as a gas in air.

InterNACHI inspectors are trained in detecting these and other common household dangers.