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Rob Rehm

Deck Check.....Is Your Wood Deck Safe?

01-03-09
Rob Rehm

A well-built deck extends the outdoor living space of a home and is one of the best remodeling investments you can make to add value to a home. The number of deck failures and resulting injuries is something we see in the news frequently, in fact, A landmark study reveals that there have been 179 reported deck collapses from January 2000 through December 2006, killing 33 and injuring 1,122. Why are so many decks failing? Reasons for deck failures include improper building methods, exceeded load capacity, poor maintenance and age. Decks should actually be built more strongly than the house for which it is attached. Why? A house is generally designed to support a "live load" (weight of furnishings and and people) of 30-50 pounds per square foot. Bulky furniture spreads weight over a large area and tends to prevent high concentration of weight in same areas. Decks, on the other hand, are sparsely furnished, allowing people at +/- 150 pounds each to mass together. Thus, a deck and be easily overloaded, and collapse under a crowd's weight. Compounding the problem is the fact that many carpenters unknowingly build structural weaknesses into decks.

Most Frequently Observed Issues with Decks

The following are the most common issues we've observed with decks:

• Wood supports are not pressure-treated, and rotting.

• Steel posts rusting through.

• Masonry piers with no mortar, or loose, tilted blocks.

• No poured concrete footing under the support posts, or posts

resting directly on or in contact with earth.

• Posts not fastened to footing (Kick a suspicious post... you'll be surprised how many move).

• Posts improperly fastened to framing... or not at all!

• Deck merely nailed onto the house, not bolted.

• Joists poorly nailed to header, not resting on ledgers.

• Joists ledger notches cut so deeply they are weakened.

• No diagonal lateral bracing under the posts nor on the support posts.

• Stairs wobbly and poorly fastened to desk.

• Railings unable to withstand reasonable lateral force, and with pickets spaced so far apart causing a danger to children.

• Improper flashing where the deck abuts the house to keep out water entry at the joint.

Proper Maintenance is Key

Even a properly constructed deck can become a safety issue if not properly maintained. It is our perspective that a properly constructed wooden deck can last up to 15 years with proper maintenance. Yearly inspection for wood rot and annual pressure washing and sealing can help you enjoy the beauty of your deck for years to come. Key areas to check for rot are gaps in the decking where leaves, pine needles and sand collect. In addition, the areas under planter boxes can be vulnerable as any areas where countersunk screws or nails create dips that hold the water. For questions about your deck - call us.

We're working to be your expert -- we're working to earn your business.

Home Inspection | Home Warranty

800-285-3001 | www.landam.com

Pre - Closing Checklist

01-03-09
Rob Rehm

Please use our complimentary pre-closing checklist on your final walkthrough on your properties. There is a time period between our inspection and closing that varies with each property. Systems can fail at any time and defects can become visible under different viewing conditions (weather change, belongings removed, etc.) so we urge you to operate all systems prior to closing and check all areas that may have been hidden from view due to occupant belongings or other obstructions. Bring a couple of light bulbs to check inoperable light fixtures.

  • Obtain all operational manuals, well/septic records, records of sale (disclosure statement, offer to purchase, and closing documents), warranties and receipts for recent repairs. Keep the records in a file.

  • Check the exterior. Pay particular attention to the roof, especially if there has been a storm since the inspection. Run the sprinklers if weather permits.

  • Check all interior rooms. Check for moving damage if the homeowner moved out between the inspection and closing. Operate all windows and doors and check for broken thermal pane seals, loose hardware, etc. Check ceilings for water stains.

  • Check countertops and interiors of all drawers, cabinets and closets.

  • Check all areas that may have been inaccessible during the inspection due to personal storage, furniture, area rugs, etc.

  • Operate all systems / appliances, sump pump and the garage door. Obtain door transmitters. Do not operate air conditioners if the temperature is below 65 degrees. Check lights (bring a couple of light bulbs).

  • Run all faucets and toilets. Fill tubs and sinks. Check for leaks. Run whirlpool tubs.

  • Check basement and / or crawl space. Look for active stains and leaks at walls, floors and under and near plumbing.

  • Check for signs of pests. Many folks do preventative pest control before taking occupancy.

  • If possible check inside the attic.

  • Verify the seller has correctly completed any promised repairs (look at receipts, permits, etc).

  • Verify the seller has notified you of any changes in the condition of the property since the inspection.

If you haven't purchased a home warranty, consider purchasing one from LandAmerica.

Once our client always our client. If you need additional information please call us at

1-800-285-3001

Winter Home Check-Up

11-28-08
Rob Rehm

Home Check-Up

Winter Special: $119 (a $200 Value)

If you're dishwasher isn't working properly -- you know you have dirty dishes. But sometimes it's the less obvious things that can create significant problems and expenses. Catching these items early - and knowing what to do about them -- can save both headaches and money.

Our home check-up is an inexpensive way to have a trained professional inspect the major systems of your home. Each home check up takes approximately one hour and includes the following components/systems: roof, exterior, foundation, fireplace, attic, electrical, heating, cooling, and plumbing.

Simply call Rob Rehm at 317-538-2969 or 800-285-3001 for more information or to schedule your Home Check -Up inspection.

The Perfect Gift Idea
Concerned about a loved-one across town? A Home Check-Up is a perfect gift -- checking the safety and condition of a home and providing a complete report for peace of mind.

Fall Fire Safety Tips

11-28-08
Rob Rehm
There are many things and activities in a home that have the potential to cause a fire. All should be examined to assure a safe cold weather season. Let's look at some of the hazards and what to do to make your home safer.
First priority is to check your smoke alarms. Test an alarm by pushing the test button. Even the "wired" alarms have a battery as a back up power source. If you have not installed fresh batteries in your alarms in the last six months, do it right away.
As the weather turns cool, everyone begins to think about starting up their home's heating system. If we give it a second thought, we might reflect on the fact that the job of a heating system is to produce heat, and uncontrolled heat can cause a dangerous fire. Since in cold weather we spend much of our time indoors depending on the warmth a heating system provides for our comfort, we know the system needs to be operating safely. And since we're going to be spending so much time indoors, we should be concerned not just with the heating system, but also other components of our home that can promote fires.
Start of course with the central heating system in your home, whether you have electric resistance heat, a boiler, natural gas, propane or oil heat. First, check to be sure the fuel supply is not leaking. For gas lines, sniff along the accessible gas pipes, especially at any joints to determine if there is any gas odor. If odor is sensed, do NOT turn on the system; shut it down and call a licensed service technician. Check along the length of oil lines to be sure there are no fuel oil leaks. If no gas odor or fuel oil leak is detected, turn off the electric service switch that is usually located near the furnace. Check to be sure the gas or oil valve is on. Go to your thermostat and make sure it is set to "heat," and select a temperature higher than the current room temperature. (Note that some thermostats are wired so that the service switch must be on before you can change the settings). Go back to the service switch and turn it on. Within a few moments the furnace should begin to activate. Different furnaces have different cycles they go through as they fire up. For this safety check, if you have a gas or oil furnace, you want to observe that there is no explosive ignition. That is, when the burners come on, you may hear a "Whump," but there should be no flame jumping out of the burner compartment. If there is, shut the furnace down and call a professional technician. Explosive ignition can burn the face of the furnace, and ignite anything nearby. Make sure no flammable materials are stored too close to a furnace on any side. For an electric furnace there are no burners of course, but when the heat strips are on, be sure the furnace cabinet does not get unusually hot, and keep flammable materials away from it as well.
While you're examining your boiler, gas or oil furnace, check the condition of the visible sections of the exhaust flue pipe, including in the attic if it passes through that space. These pipes can get hot. The joint connections should be secure, and the pipe must be kept away from flammable materials, including the structural framing of your home. Different pipes have different clearance requirements. Double wall pipe generally requires two inches of clearance, and single wall pipe requires at least 6 inches. Anything closer than that is a fire hazard. Remove anything too close to the flue. If the flue location needs to be adjusted to allow required clearance from part of the structure, call a professional.
If you have a gas water heater, check its ignition too. Stand a little to the side and adjust the thermostat dial to a higher temperature. The dial is usually located at the bottom of the appliance. As you rotate the dial toward HOT, the water heater burner should come on. Make sure the metal flame shield is in place and that flame does not come out of the burner compartment on the bottom of the unit. If it does, and particularly if there are scorch marks on the outside of the appliance just above the burner access opening, call a licensed plumber to correct the problem. After observing, be sure to turn the dial back to where you started. And like a furnace, make sure there is no flammable material or structure too close to the water heater and its flue pipe.

Do you have any portable electric space heaters in use? Is the heater and power cord in good condition? Or perhaps you have portable kerosene heaters. Extra care must be exercised to keep combustibles such as drapes, rugs, clothing and paper goods away from these devices. These type heaters can easily start a fire if flammable material comes in contact with them.

Now take a look at everything electrical in your home. While you needn't get unduly alarmed, keep in mind that just about everything about the electrical system and devices connected to it have the potential to cause a fire, not to mention shocks, if not kept in good condition. Let's start with the visible parts of the wiring. Run your eyes down the length of all the wiring you can see. That would include wiring in attics, basements, crawl spaces and any unfinished parts of your home. Any wiring that is cracked, frayed or deteriorated in any way is not only a fire hazard, but can be a shock hazard. Are there any wire splices visible? For fire safety, all splices must be inside a covered junction box. Get any deteriorated wiring or uncovered or missing junction boxes repaired by a licensed electrician. Check all switches and receptacles. Are any loose or damaged? Are any switch covers hot? If so, get them fixed.

Examine your electric panel, including any subpanels if you have them. If you have an old panel with fuses, are you sure you have always replaced any fuse with a new one of equal amperage rating? Using a fuse rated higher than the capacity of the wire attached to it is a big fire hazard. Similarly, if you have a panel with breakers and have replaced any breaker with an amperage rating higher than the attached wire's capacity, you have created a fire hazard. With the panel cover in place, you can safely touch around a fuse or breaker. If any are so hot that it hurts to touch it, there may be a problem. If you don't know if the fuses or breakers have been replaced in the past but suspect that may be the case, or something in the panel is very hot to the touch, have a licensed electrician inspect the panel. If your home is more than 20 years old, you should have the panel inspected anyway because over time homeowners tend to add and use more and more electrical devices in their home, and that can overload a panel not rated for the added loads, and that's a fire hazard.

In the cool months, there is less natural light. Our tendency is to want our light fixtures to produce more light to compensate, so it's not unusual to install high-wattage bulbs. That could be a fire hazard. Any time you change an incandescent bulb, look for a label on the fixture, usually on the fixture base, that tells you the maximum watt bulb you should use. Larger wattage bulbs produce more heat, thus can be a fire hazard, so don't exceed the label's warning. If the fixture has no label, use bulbs no higher than 60 watts.

Examine every lamp, radio, TV and other types of appliance cords, power tools and extension cords in use in your home. Include electric blankets in your inspection. These light-weight cords and the wiring in electric blankets are easily damaged and deteriorate over time. Damaged cords are fire hazards. If the insulation on any cord is cracked or deteriorated, have the device rewired if economical to do so, or throw it away and get a new one. Never run electric cords under carpets. Every time current flows through the wire, it heats up a little. If it heats up too much, it can ignite the carpet. Do not use extension cords as permanent wiring. They are too weak to handle any current above their rating. If you attach too many electric devices to extension cords, it will be overloaded, heat up and can cause a fire.

Look around the kitchen. There are a lot of appliances in kitchens with electric cords that need to be examined. Is there anything too close to the cooktop, like cabinets, wall finish, potholders, or utensils? The sides, rear and space above the cooktop requires a safe clearance to insure radiated heat from a burner does not ignite the adjacent surfaces. And keep in mind that when you have a pot or skillet on a burner, some heat travels around the vessel and can push it closer to adjacent surfaces.

Why Inspecting A New Home During The Construction Process Makes Sense

11-01-08
Rob Rehm

Building a Home is a Complicated Process

Even though most builders are quality-oriented, mistakes can sometimes happen simply because there are so many steps

and people involved in building a home. Most builders welcome periodic review of their construction process by qualified

inspectors -- everyone wants to make sure the home will provide lasting value.

Consumer Advocates Recommend Inspections

Many consumer advocates recommend an independent

inspection during various phases of the construction

process. An independent inspector who works directly for

the homebuyer will add considerable peace of mind and

can help when problems arise.

Why Choose LandAmerica?

We have inspectors who are specifically trained in new

building methods and evaluating specific phases of the

construction process. Our inspectors help both the home

buyer and builder keep issues in the proper perspective --

sometimes it's a major defect and sometimes it just

talking through a particular construction method to make

sure it's acceptable.

If you plan to work with an independent inspector during your construction project, make sure you negotiate this with your

builder up front. In many cases, your builder will require your inspector to be code-certified or hold certification with the

American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI®) or another professional affiliate, and carry the proper E&O and General

Liability insurance. Normally, you'll want to hire an inspector before construction begins to make at least three visits during

construction. Your inspector will be looking at the property to ensure it meets code standards as well as manufacturer

recommendations and installation requirements. Manufacturer recommendations are crucial because if they are not

followed, it can void the warranty due to improper installation.

Foundation (Pre-Slab) - A Solid Foundation is Crucial

Typically this inspection is performed before the slab or basement walls are poured. Your inspector will look at the site

excavation, footings, foundation walls (or slab), backfill and compaction. Careful attention at this stage can prevent future

issues with moisture intrusion and structure due to improper grading, soil compaction, backfill or footing installation.

Pre-Drywall Stage - No X-Ray Vision Required

Many issues can be identified before being covered with drywall; if these issue are not discovered they may not manifest

into actual problems until after your builder warranty period has expired. In many cases, it is much less costly (for both you

and your builder) to have problems addressed during this stage. During the pre-drywall stage, your inspector will be

looking at the structural walls, floors and roof for the quality of framing; truss installation; AC / heating ductwork; all above

grade plumbing; wiring and roof surfaces and flashing.

Final Inspection- The Big Picture

The final inspection should occur just before your pre-closing "walk-thru" so the home will be complete with operating

utilities and all appliances. During this inspection, your inspector will carefully examine any structural changes made since

the prior phase and will complete a final review of the electrical, plumbing and mechanical systems.