With over 90,000 licenced Realtors currently practicing in Canada, it is no wonder people often have a difficult time choosing which one is right for them. To help with your decision we have compiled a list of a few things you should consider when choosing a Realtor:
1. Don't select your Realtor solely based on their evaluation of your home. Just because they tell you they can sell your house for more doesn't mean they will.
2.Search RECO.on.ca to make sure their licence is in good standing.
3. Ask for a marketing plan. The more exposure your house receives the better chance you will attract more potential buyers.
4. Make sure the Realtor has other team members supporting his/her efforts. Usually the best Realtors are very busy so having knowledgeable assistants or fellow Realtors can be invaluable when you have questions.
5. Honesty is very important. A Realtor must be willing to communicate both positive and negative points to be truly working in your best interest.
6. Make sure you choose a Realtor who is knowledgeable about the area you want to live in. They should have a good understanding of the neighbourhoods, price trends, and schools in the area that you are interested in.
7. Although experience is key, results are even more important. If a Realtor has less experience it does not necessarily translate into fewer results; just make sure you do some research before choosing them.
8. If you are having a difficult time deciding between Realtors, it might be a good idea to contact former clients and ask whether the Realtor is easy to work with, whether they feel they got a good price and whether they would use them again.
9.Find out how much commission they charge and if there are any additional fees. commission is around as well fid hot how much commission they will be paying the cooperating broker.
10. If a contract is required (which is usually the case) make sure you find out all of the terms and obligations in detail: specifically, when the contract ends and if there is an option to cancel.
The Importance of Bathroom and Kitchen Fans
Bathroom and kitchen fans are an important part of your home's ventilation system. They remove odours from your house, which improves indoor air quality. They also remove moisture, which decreases the level of humidity in your house. High humidity can damage building materials and can cause mold growth. Mold may affect your family's health.
Common Fan and Exhaust Systems
The two most common types of fans are impeller fans and blower fans.
Impeller fans move air with blades similar to airplane propellers.
Blower fans look like hamster wheels - they are often called squirrel cages - and generally do a better job of moving air than impeller fans.
Most exhaust systems consist of an exhaust fan, ducting and an exterior hood. Some houses have a central exhaust system, in which one fan draws moisture and odours from several rooms of the house using a network of ducts.
Kitchen exhaust systems usually have the fan and fan motor in the exhaust hood. Other systems use an in-line fan, which is in the exhaust duct, or a fan outside the house. In-line and outdoor exhaust fans are usually quieter than systems with the fan in the room.
A heat recovery ventilator (HRV) also exhausts moisture and odours. An HRV is a self-contained ventilation system that provides balanced air intake and exhaust. Like a central exhaust fan, it can be connected to several rooms by ducting.
How Good Is The Fan I Have Now?
CMHC's research shows that many houses have exhaust fans that:
Are There Better Fans?
Yes. There's a new generation of effective, quiet, energy-efficient exhaust fans and controls.
How Do I Choose the Best System?
First, choose the quietest, most energy-efficient fan in the size range required. Most fan labels have Home Ventilation Institute (HVI) ratings so you can compare noise and energy efficiency. Look for a fan with replaceable parts and permanent lubrication. A fan suitable for continuous use is preferable. Be prepared to pay more for a quality fan.
Second, select low-resistance (smooth) exhaust ducting. Seal the joints and insulate sections that run through unheated spaces.
Third, place the exhaust hood where it will not cause moisture damage on exterior surfaces.
Fourth, if you have heating appliances with chimneys, make sure that fans won't cause the appliances to backdraft.
Fifth, install the proper controls.
Bathroom Fans: What Should I Look For?
Fan exhaust capacity is rated in litres per second (L/s) or cubic feet per minute (cfm). A normal bathroom needs a good-quality fan that draws 25 L/s (50 cfm). A poor-quality fan won't exhaust enough air and will be too noisy for regular use. The best fans have sound ratings of 0.5 sones or less and consume about 20 watts. Older units typically run up to 4 sones and 80 watts.
Large bathrooms, or those with bigger fixtures, such as spas, need larger fans. Place a bathroom fan as close as possible to the source of the moisture or odour.
Some bathroom fans have lights or heating lamps. If you choose a fan with integrated lights, look for efficiency. Any fan installed in an insulated ceiling - for instance, if the attic is above the bathroom ceiling - must not leak air and must be rated for use under insulation.
Make sure that exhaust fans, lights and heaters in bath or shower enclosures are rated and approved for wet conditions. Newer units approved for wet conditions may include ground fault protection.
Noise
Noise determines whether people use a fan. Many people won't use a noisy fan. Select the quietest fan in the size you need. Look for fans labeled 'low noise' or 'quiet,' and check for the HVI rating. If it is not rated, there is a good chance that it will be noisy.
Fan Power Requirements And Airflows
There is more to energy efficiency than selecting an energy-efficient fan. Ducting can affect fan performance. Uninsulated, undersized, or droopy flex ducting, ineffective or dirty backdraft dampers and exhaust louvres can cut rated airflow by more than 50 per cent.
To find out if your exhaust fan is drawing air, hold a piece of toilet tissue up to the grill. The exhaust air should hold the tissue tightly to the grill. You could also check the outlet to make sure the air is leaving your house. CMHC has developed a simple test to measure flow, and published it as an "About Yor House" titled "Garbage Bag Airflow Test". You can obtain a copy from CMHC by calling our toll-free number 1 800 668-2642 or download it from our website www.cmhc.ca
Controls
Bathroom fans connected to light switches start running when the light is turned on. Often, users turn the light off before all the moisture is exhausted after a bath or shower. An electronic timer, which is usually quieter than a mechanical timer, offers a wide range of settings. Make sure the time instructions are easy-to- understand and the timer is easy to use. You can use motion or humidity sensors, or a combination of both, to control the fan. Controls which allow you to specify operating times or maximum humidity levels are preferable to those where the operation is pre-set by the manufacturer. Use a delayed fan shut-off to keep the fan running for 15 minutes after you leave the room.
Cleaning
Fans create static electricity which attracts dirt like a magnet to the fan and its housing. The dirt can encourage mold growth and restrict air movement. Clean fans, housings, backdraft dampers and exterior flaps seasonally. A typical bathroom fan can be cleaned by pulling down the grill, and unplugging and removing the fan module. Fans in ducts and exterior fans may be difficult to clean.
Kitchen Range Hoods
A kitchen range hood must move more air than a bathroom fan. about 50 to 140 L/s (100 to 300 cfm). As a result, they are noisier, with the lowest rating about 4.5 sones, although they can be relatively quiet on low speed.
The most useful units have a low noise rating, an energy-efficient fan, fluorescent lights, sound insulation, anti-vibration mounts and duct connections. For heavy duty use, select non-corrosive materials such as aluminum or stainless steel. High quality hoods may have heat sensors and a safety shut-off.
Kitchen exhaust systems should discharge outdoors. Recirculating range hoods rely on filters to capture some odours and grease. The filters are generally made of carbon which must be replaced frequently to be effective. Grease will coat carbon, making it ineffective. With recirculating fans, cooking moisture and odours will usually remain in the house.
Positioning
Range hoods are most effective when they extend out over the stove surface and are close to the stove top. Island units are less effective than wall units.
Cleaning
Range hoods usually have washable, aluminum-mesh grease filters. Better quality filters have a smaller diameter mesh over a larger surface area and can be cleaned in the dishwasher.
Fire
There is always the possibility of a grease fire with a kitchen range hood exhaust. Smooth metal ducting, preferably galvanized steel, is safer in a fire than lighter assemblies.
Installation
Install fans and exhaust systems so they make the least possible noise, vibrate as little as possible and leak as little air as possible.
Anti-vibration pads or foam tape can isolate the fan housing from wood joists and drywall.You can wrap fan housings and some duct sections in rubber or vinyl noise barrier mats.
Ducts
Install exhaust systems according to the building code and manufacturer's recommendations. Straight, short duct runs, with few turns, will result in the highest fan flow.
For bathroom fans, use duct with a diameter of at least 100 mm (4 in). For long runs, use larger, 150-mm diameter (6-in.) to improve air flow. It is usually best to avoid fans with 75-mm (3 in.) exhaust ports and ducts. Follow manufacturer's instructions for kitchen exhaust duct sizes.
Seal all duct joints and connections with aluminum duct tape or duct mastic (available at contractors. supply shops) to prevent air, moisture and noise leakage. Standard cloth duct tapes tend to dry out and fall off.
Seal and then insulate all ductwork running through unheated areas to avoid moisture problems.The best practice is to slant horizontal runs of duct down toward the exterior outlet to drain any condensation outside.
Exhaust air should not be released into the attic, into a wall or ceiling cavity, crawl space, basement or in the roof soffit. These locations can promote condensation damage and mold growth.
Weather Hoods, Grills And Backdraft Dampers
Even when fans are off, stack effects and wind loads may cause outside air to enter or inside air to exhaust through fan ducting. Fans are equipped with backdraft flaps, usually in the fan box exhaust port. Check the flaps from time to time to make sure they are clean and working. The exterior exhaust flap or louvres should be clean and in good repair to maintain unobstructed airflow and reduce air infiltration. Most exhaust ducts are fitted with a single flap exhaust hood or triple louvre aluminum or plastic exhaust grill. Use weather hoods that lie flat on the wall in driveways and other places where hood-type units could be damaged.
Plastic hoods break down over time and need to be replaced. Clean exhaust hoods of lint and nesting materials seasonally to ensure that the flap or louvres are not blocked or stuck open.
Some Dangers
Chimney connections
Some older bathrooms have static exhausts which look like upside down funnels on the ceiling. If these exhausts are hooked into the furnace chimney, disconnect them from the chimney, seal the hole in the chimney with hydraulic (expanding) cement, and install a new powered exhaust. If these static exhausts go directly outside, they can still be used, but a good fan will be more energy efficient and less drafty.
High Capacity Systems
High capacity, industrial or oversized exhaust fans, and range-top barbecue fans can cause chimney backdrafting. Backdrafting occurs when air is drawn down the chimneys, bringing dangerous combustion exhaust gases into the house. Avoid backdrafting by selecting sealed combustion heating appliances. If you have appliances with chimneys in your house, and you wish to install high capacity exhaust fans, you will need a matching supply air fan to balance house pressures.
Many ventilation contractors or salespeople are unaware of the effects of large exhaust fans on other house appliances. Make sure that your system is properly installed with supply air. At the very least, make sure that you have smoke alarms and carbon monoxide detectors to warn you if you have severe chimney backdrafting.
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Fighting Mold - The Homeowners' Guide Understanding mold
Molds are microscopic fungi, a group of organisms which also includes mushrooms and yeasts. Fungi are highly adapted to grow and reproduce rapidly, producing spores and mycelia in the process. You encounter mold every day. Foods spoil because of mold. Leaves decay and pieces of wood lying on the ground rot due to mold. That fuzzy black growth on wet window sills is mold. Paper or fabrics stored in a damp place get a musty smell that is due to the action of molds. Molds can be useful to people. The drug penicillin is obtained from a specific type of mold. Some foods and beverages are made by the actions of molds. The good kinds of molds are selected and grown in a controlled fashion. Molds are undesirable when they grow where we don't want them, such as in homes. Over 270 species of mold have been identified as living in Canadian homes. Molds that grow inside may be different from the ones found outdoors. What makes molds grow? Molds will grow if we provide them with moisture and nutrients. If we keep things dry, molds do not grow. High moisture levels can be the result of water coming in from the outside, through the floor, walls or roof; or from plumbing leaks; or moisture produced by the people living in the home, through daily activities like bathing, washing clothes or cooking. Water enters the building when there is a weakness or failure in the structure. Moisture accumulates within the home when there is not enough ventilation to expel that moisture. Different kinds of molds grow on different materials. Certain kinds of molds like an extremely wet environment. Other kinds of molds may be growing even if no water can be seen. Dampness inside the material can be enough to allow them to grow. Why are molds a concern? Damage to materials is one concern. Materials get stained or discoloured, and over time they are ruined. Moldy paper and cardboard disintegrate over time. Fabrics are damaged. Continued mold growth can be indicative of moisture conditions favourable for growth of fungi that cause wood rot and structural damage. When molds are growing inside the home, there may be health concerns. Molds release chemicals and spores. Health experts indicate that, depending on the type of mold present in a home, the amount and degree of exposure, and the health condition of the occupant, the health effects of mold can range from being insignificant to causing allergic reactions and illness. Pregnant women, infants, the elderly and those with health problems, such as respiratory disease or a weakened immune system, are more at risk when exposed to mold. Consult your family physician if you believe there is someone who may be at risk. Is there a mold problem? Molds are always found in the air outside and in all buildings. They come into the home in many ways - through open windows or doors, on clothing, pets, food or furniture. The problem starts when mold grows inside the home. Some mold growing, for example on the window sill but not elsewhere, is not a cause of concern. You can clean the mold yourself. The presence of mold is a sign that there is too much moisture in your home - a situation which must be corrected. Inspect the home to find the extent of the mold. How can you tell if it is mold? Discoloration Discoloration is a sign of mold. However, all discoloration is not due to mold. Carpeting near baseboards, for example, can be stained by outdoor pollution entering the home. Stains or soot may also be caused by the smoke from burning candles or cigarettes. Mold may be any colour: black, white, red, orange, yellow, blue or violet. Dab a drop of household bleach onto a suspected spot. If the stain loses its colour or disappears, it may be mold. If there is no change, it probably isn't mold. Smell/Odour Sometimes molds are hidden and cannot be seen. A musty or earthy smell often indicates the presence of molds. But a smell may not be present for all molds. Even when you don't notice a smell, wet spots, dampness or evidence of a water leak are indications of moisture problems and mold may follow. How much mold is growing? One way to know is to estimate the area of the mold. Mold is considered to cover a "small area" if the patch is no larger than a square meter. There should be no more than three patches, each patch smaller than a square meter. Clean up small areas yourself using a detergent solution, household rubber gloves and a dust mask for protection. Refer to How to clean-up small problems for the procedure. Small moldy areas in homes may become larger over time, if ignored, so it's important to clean up and remove even small patches of mold. The mold area is considered "moderate" if there are more than three patches, each patch smaller than a square meter, or there is one or more isolated patches larger than a square meter but smaller than 3 square metres (size of a 4 x 8 foot sheet of plywood). Assessment by a professional is recommended. You can clean up moderate amounts of mold but you must follow the proper procedures and use the proper protective equipment. Refer to Moderate area clean-up for the procedure. A mold area is considered "extensive" if a single patch of mold is larger in area than a sheet of plywood. Being exposed to this much mold is not a good idea. Do not attempt to clean up large areas of mold yourself. You need professional help to determine why the mold is there in the first place and how to clean it up. When should you seek professional help? You may need professional help when:
How do you get professional help? Contact your local CMHC office for a list of individuals who have completed the CMHC Residential Indoor Air Quality Investigator program. A trained IAQ investigator, who operates a private business and sells his/her services, examines the indoor air quality of your home and documents your concerns. He/she identifies the problems, finds their sources and suggests solutions in a written report. Recommendations are provided to you in an action plan that consists of various options to improve the indoor air quality in your home.
Bleach is NOT recommended The presence of organic (humic) materials, the pH (acidity/alkalinity) of the water, the surface material and contact time affect the effectiveness of bleach for disinfection. Since these factors are not generally controlled, bleach cannot be relied upon for disinfection. The most compelling reason for advising against bleach is that fumes are harmful but in addition, overuse of bleach will result in increased releases of chlorinated effluents which can be harmful to the environment. "Small area" clean-up You can clean up "small areas" of mold (fewer than three patches, each smaller than a square meter) yourself. The minimum protective wear needed are:
Infants and other family members with asthma, allergies or other health problems should not be in the work area or adjacent room during the cleaning. Washable surfaces: Scrub with an unscented detergent solution; then sponge with a clean, wet rag and dry quickly. Using an unscented detergent will make it easier for you to detect residual moldy odours. Moldy drywall: Clean the surface with a damp rag using baking soda or a bit of detergent. Do not allow the drywall to get too wet. Mold that comes back after cleaning is usually an indication that a source of moisture has not been removed. Seek professional help from a trained IAQ investigator.
If you follow the proper procedures and use the proper protective equipment, you can clean up "moderate areas" of mold. "Moderate" means more than 3 patches of mold, each smaller than one square meter, or one or more isolated patches larger than one square meter but smaller than 3 square meters (size of a 4 x 8 foot sheet of plywood). Safety precautions
A small clean up should take minutes (not hours) to finish. When the clean up takes hours to a day to finish, it is suggested that you upgrade to a better filter, such as a half-face respirator with charcoal cartridges. An exhaust fan installed in a window in the room being cleaned would prevent contamination of other areas of the house as well as provide ventilation. Vacuum surfaces with a vacuum cleaner which has a High Efficiency Particulate Air (HEPA) filter or is externally exhausted. Scrub or brush the moldy area with a mild unscented detergent solution. Rinse by sponging with a clean, wet rag. Repeat. Dry quickly. HEPA vacuum the surfaces that were cleaned as well as surrounding areas. Cleaning wood surfaces Vacuum loose mold from wood surfaces using a HEPA or externally exhausted vacuum. Try cleaning the surface of the wood with detergent and water. Rinse with a clean, damp rag and dry quickly. If the staining does not come off, sand and vacuum the surface of the wood with a vacuum/sander combination. It is important to vacuum at the same time to prevent mold spores from being dispersed into the air. Note that wood affected by rot may need to be replaced. Cleaning concrete surfaces Vacuum the concrete surfaces to be cleaned with a HEPA or externally exhausted vacuum cleaner. Clean up surfaces with detergent and water. If the surfaces are still visibly moldy, use TSP (trisodium phosphate). Dissolve one cup of TSP in two gallons of warm water. Stir for two minutes. Note: TSP must not be allowed to come in contact with skin or eyes. Saturate the moldy concrete surface with the TSP solution using a sponge or rag. Keep the surface wetted for at least 15 minutes. Rinse the concrete surface twice with clean water. Dry thoroughly, as quickly as possible. Moldy drywall The paper facings of gypsum wallboard (drywall) grow mold when they get wet or repeatedly wet and don't dry quickly. Cleaning with water containing detergent not only add moisture to the paper but also can eventually damage the facing. If the mold is located only on top of the painted surface, remove it by general cleaning (see above). If the mold is underneath the paint, the moldy patch and other moldy material behind it are best cut out and the surrounding areas also cleaned. This should be done by a mold clean-up contractor. New materials may become moldy if the moisture entry has not been stopped. If this is the case, replacement of the materials should be deferred until the source of the moisture is corrected. The affected areas should be temporarily covered with plastic sheeting and sealed at the edges. Any areas that show new patches of mold should be cleaned promptly. Dealing with an ongoing problem Repair to the building envelope is required if moisture is entering the home from the outside. At the same time, steps should be taken inside the home to reduce the occupants' exposure to mold. Step 1 - Discard moldy or damaged materials Wear a dust mask and gloves. Furnishings, such as mattresses, carpets, or sofas that got wet or have been stored in damp conditions should be discarded. Discard items that are no longer needed. Use this opportunity to reduce the amount of furnishings - this means fewer materials to absorb moisture and grow mold. Clothes and other items that have been cleaned should be stored in sealed plastic bags to prevent re-contamination. Step 2 - Vacuum Proper vacuuming reduces the amount of mold spores. All surfaces in the home (floors, walls, ceilings, shelves) and non-washable furnishings (such as sofas, chairs, etc.) must be vacuumed thoroughly. Step 3 - Prevent Keep moisture generated within the home to a minimum by conscientiously following the prevention steps presented in the next section. Step 4 - Clear wet areas Pull carpets and furnishings away from walls that get wet. Carpets and underpads that are moldy should be cut out and discarded. Step 5 - Dry Take steps to dry up areas that get wet. Monitor the relative humidity of the air. Use a portable dehumidifier, if necessary. Ensure that the condensate drain pan of the dehumidifier is emptied regularly. Step 6 - Isolate If the mold is limited to one area, isolate the area if possible. Cover the affected surfaces with plastic sheeting secured at the edges with duct tape. Note that this is only a temporary measure to minimize your exposure. Step 7 - Clean Healthy individuals can regularly clean "small" and "moderate" areas of mold, thus preventing these from getting out of hand, by following the safety precautions and cleaning guidelines. Step 8 - Seek professional help Consider seeking professional help from trained IAQ investigators to identify appropriate remediation steps inside the home. Removing large amounts of mold will require the services of mold clean-up contractors. Preventing mold
Basic steps to prevent and reduce mold growth Mold needs moisture to grow. Controlling the moisture and keeping the home dry prevents the growth of mold.
Mold-proofing your home, room by room Basement or crawl space
Laundry areas
Bathrooms
To clean a drain:
If the drain is still clogged, use a small plumbing snake. Kitchen
Closets and bedrooms
Other parts of the home
Exterior
Frequently asked questions about mold Should I have my house air tested for mold? This is the question most frequently asked by homeowners who think their home may have a mold problem. Testing is generally not recommended for homeowners. Testing of moldy materials or an air sample identifies the types of molds that may be present but does not identify the cause/source of moisture. The type of mold does not change the procedures for cleaning up areas of mold less than 3 square meters. You have to clean up the mold and correct the problem irrespective of the type of mold. The cost of testing may be better spent hiring a professional investigator or fixing the problem. Testing of a moldy material involves sending a swab, an imprint on a Scotch tape or a piece of the material to a competent laboratory. Air sampling requires specialized equipment. An air sample typically captures mold spores in a period of minutes. Since replicate samples must be taken due to variations in the airborne molds over time (even hours) and compared with outdoor samples, air testing is both expensive and time-consuming. Interpretation of test results may not be very useful, since there are no advocated "safe levels" of indoor molds and the results will not tell the health risks from the molds. The air feels dry - can I humidify? Before you add moisture to the air, measure the relative humidity. Air that feels dry may not be really dry. It may be moldy. High relative humidity (over 45 per cent) promotes the growth of molds and dust mites. The moisture in the air may condense on colder exterior walls where molds start to grow. If your physician has advised you to use a humidifier in your child's bedroom at night, monitor the relative humidity. Turn the humidifier on and off as necessary. In the morning, take steps to make sure the room gets dry. Clean and empty the humidifier after each use. What advantages do HEPA vacuums provide? Ordinary vacuums capture large particles only - small mold spores pass through the vacuum into the air. HEPA vacuums have special filters that capture small particles. A central vacuum cleaner which is exhausted to the outside also removes mold spores. A regular portable vacuum is useful only if its exhaust goes outside the home. Vacuuming removes settled dust that contains an accumulation of mold spores over time. Reducing the settled dust reduces molds. Vacuuming with any vacuum cleaner (ordinary, central or HEPA) stirs dust and mold during the process. Wear a dust mask so you will not be breathing more mold. Is vacuuming with a HEPA or externally exhausted vacuum cleaner recommended for serious mold problems only? Vacuum regularly with a HEPA or externally exhausted vacuum cleaner to prevent the ongoing accumulation of dust and molds. The need for HEPA or external exhaust vacuuming increases with the severity of the mold problem. If a furnishing has been wet at some time in the past or has been exposed to dampness over a prolonged period of time, vacuuming with HEPA or externally exhausted vacuum is unlikely to remove the mold growing beneath the surface. It is better to discard the item. Where do you find a HEPA vacuum cleaner? Vacuum cleaner dealers carry HEPA vacuums. Consider purchasing one as an upgrade to what you may be using. A HEPA vacuum is a good investment in the long term whether you have mold or not. A generic canister HEPA vacuum cleaner costs approximately $300. Brand name products of the same type may cost more. You may inquire if the dealer has a HEPA vacuum cleaner to rent. Contractors who clean up or renovate houses for mold should also have this equipment. Does painting over a moldy surface take care of the mold? Painting over mold only masks the problem. Paint does not kill the mold nor stop it from growing. Surfaces that are washable should be cleaned with a detergent solution, following the procedure suggested above, then allowed to dry. If you are going to paint, remove mold first. Does cleaning stop the mold growth? Mold will reappear until its source of moisture is removed. High moisture levels that are not corrected can make the molds grow back quickly. Cleaning is only a temporary but essential measure. You can help by making a conscious effort to keep the home dry. Obviously, water must be prevented from entering the home. But you can help by controlling moisture that you produce. How does one clean clothes that are moldy? Non-washable clothing can be dry cleaned. Wash clothes with a detergent solution to which a cup of bleach is added. Make sure the detergent you use does not contain ammonia. Repeat as necessary until the moldy odour is gone. Clothes and other items that have been cleaned should be stored in sealed plastic bags to prevent re-contamination.
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